Robbie

I'll measure it this morning and get back to you...Great, thanks!

I'm after a driveshaft for a manual tt . It's the pasenger side (short) and attaches to a diff (large casing version) Thanks Rob

Re: boot plastics and heater controls Do you do paypal? Also can you send or deliver? Thanks

HI, I'll take the rear plastics - £30 and the heater controls - £10

Hi, it's the larger Uk Diff, Thank you

Keron Hi, Could you help me out with a tt pasenger side Driveshaft. Thanks, Rob

And there I was only expecting the cost of the repair to make me uncomfortable!

I don't know what you mean?

Thanks Dnk, Good source of info there! I've been out, jacked the car up to make sure the grease was emanating from where I first thought. If I pressed very hard with my hand I got a small amount of movement between the two metal casings. I tried the same on the other side but got no visible movement. I'm probably being thick but I'm just not sure which parts on the diagrams are the outer casing of driveshaft next to the hub So the quickest fix I can think of would be if someone has a nearside tt driveshaft. I believe as it's the short one so it has to be from a manual TT. It's got the large Diff and is a UK car. (Hopefully someone who's done this before can put me straight right here. Thanks in advance Rob

Thank you Chris.

Does anyone have a technical diagram of this area. Thanks. edit: I've found this: http://mkiv.com/techarticles/rear_wheel_bearing/index.html I'm going to take another look then attempt to get the drive shaft off if I cant' see any other area whre the grease is emanating from

Hi Chris, Hi Dnk. The rubber gaiter is in good condition. It's definitely coming from between the metal join. What would you suggest is the best plan of action here? If it's the cv joint , is that a replaceable section or will I need to get a whole new joint?

Thanks. Hopefully this will not be too expensive to repair. I assume your one is from an = NA? I'm not really clued up in how I'd adapt the na to my version .

Not having used the car since supra pod. I thought it better to change the rear wheels back to the 18's from the 17 micket T' set. However when I lifted up the 18 set I noticed a lot of grease in the inside edge of the wheel. When I removed the 17 set I noticed small blobs of grease as well. This had clearly been leaking for a while now & with the wheel off I could see greasy deposits on a couple of other areas, shown in the two pics. It looks like when the grease has heated up it's leaking from between two metal seals. The rubber gator is intact. Could anyone inform me as to my best plan of action. Has anyone else had this issue? Does this mean a complete strip down of the rear hub and if so what new parts should I be looking at. Would it be easier to get a second hand rear hub? Thanks Rob

Q: who did the head porting on that cylinderhead? - A: Gary at GT-Art Q: why was it removed from the block? - A: Broken valve from dodgy sparkplug. I'd been trying out some cheap plugs and the results were not what I hoped for

Hi, The Damper & Pulleys have been sold now I'm afraid.

No silly offers please!

Are you near enough to look it over. it's in my lockup atm so I havent looked at it for about a year!

Agree with that. And Stuarts car made his 8.5 time look easy! well done indeed. The only thing that'd be nice next year would be some commentry, like they have on rwyb days to spice up the runs a little. Best I managed with my 2.3 starts was an 11.6, 130mph @ 1.8bar optimax. I decided to try a few harder starts but my water/meth inj ran out and messed up my last runs. only had 1 bar!

Now sold! Still have 264 Cams, springs and retainers + head for sale

I'll Take 475 for the cams.....Bargain

£40 ?

I'm Selling my jun cams and I have valve springs and retainers. I also have a flywheel with a clutch attached and possibly a slave cylinder

Bump!

I would think a broken spag would have other indicators than oil colour & I was referring to the change speeds and potential heat damage. I never knew your box broke a spag!