RB-GTE

My mechanic which owns a 750bhp Supra. Claims he runs 10w30 synthetic oil, and for my new oil change he said he can just use 10w30... and I'll be BPU next week with full decat and everything. I know that 10w30 is the stock engine oil, I thought if I'm running a lot more power I need to run a thinner oil? Anyone have some insight on this? This is just a daily driven street car. I do spirited hard driving once in a while but no track or anything too competitive.

Oh yes I very well know of that. My old Supra has a LWFW and it was a little noisy (rattling sound). The problem with my fuel pump is that there is a constant wine, it wasn't like this before. It happened shortly after I cleaned out my idle control valve. I assume the fuel pump is stock, the car has a few basic mods like exhaust/intercooler but thats about it. Would a boost leak test show which vacume lines are possibley not on properly? actually I have also been having a spooling problem sometimes with my 2nd turbo, but other times it spools perfect. I may have a vacume line that not on right.

I got my new Supra 6 weeks ago. Haven't changed oil or spark plugs yet since it appears to be fine for now. While starting the car in cold it was shake a lot and struggle to keep and iddle bouncing back between 600-700. Once the engine was warn, it would usually idle around 750-800 at most or other times around 950... Sometimes on the first or second attemt starting it was quickly drop down to 200rpm stay on for 2 seconds, and then die... and there would be a whining noise from the fuel pump for a couple seconds after this. So I decided to take off my IDLE CONTROL VALVE today (which was a little pain to do), it wasn't that dirty but I cleaned it out. So after putting it back together I fired the car back up from a cold start. It was a big improvement from what I have seen. It didn't idle perfect still a little rough from a cold start. When I fired it up it was glued shut 1000rpm idle. After it warmed up a bit it went down to around 900. After fully warming up it then dropped to around 700 range but it seemed to be idling pretty fine? but it seems low. It would go up and down between 700-1000 range it didn't keep a normal idle still. After taking it for a 2 minute drive and coming back in my driveway after cleaning ICV. I turned the car off and started it back up again. There is a constant whining noise coming from the rear fuel pump. Why is it doing this? Next week I am installing a full decat, new walbro 255lph, new denso spark plugs, new oil.... any of this stuff would possibley help eliminate the current problems? edit: if it makes a different I have a lightened aftermarket flywheel, not sure if that has anything to do with idle? I'm just really trying to get the car to idle as it should and run perfet like my other supra's have in the past. This is 1997 TT 6-speed with 113,000 KMs (70,000) miles...

The problem is that tyre manafactures did not produce much 265/35 If I wanted a 265 I'd have to go with a 30 series tyre. The next solution is 255/35, but I'd prefer to fit the largest tire I could up front to maximize my handling performance and feel.

Having a hard time deciding, I got 19x9.5 front and 19x10.5 rim width. Rear tyre would be 285/30 For the fronts I was thinking 265/30 (since there isn't a great selection for 35 series in 265 width). Would 30 series rear/front be a good combo?

It's annoying, When I turn the key, it will just make one CLICK sound and thats it. I have to keep turing the key, sometimes I have to do it 15 times before it will actually start. The battery on this car is strong, is this the starter failing? Could the battery terminals be the problem? are they not giving connecting good enough for the car to get started? yes look old and almost rusted but can I get these from Toyota? it doesn't look like your regular kind of connector I can get at the local store.

^ Thanks mate but I should be good, I will just dig in and tackle the job and follow the instructions people have put up

Yeah seems pretty straight forward but not sure what everyone means by the ring, and that its hard to install after its "removed"? Is it that what holds the entire pump assembly down? just a little confused on that part.

So I wanted to upgrade my stock fuel pump with a Walbro 255 Fuel Pump with fittings I recieved for my Supra I wanted to see if there were any instructions or write up's floating around? I wanted to see if this is something I'd be able to do myself. cheers

I meant to say 40 series front, and 35 rear. I've been running 35/30 all along. Other than the speedo which I could get corrected to read properly, would there be any big improvement with the thicket side walls?

So I got some 19" 19x9 and 19x10 I am due for some new tyres I am at full BPU right now and enjoying it, I will stay like this for a while. I wanted to focus now more on handling performance and overall ride feel. For 19" rims, would 255/35 and 285/30 setup work? Or should I just stick with 255/30 and 285/25? I figured with more sidewall on the front and back that wold improve traction and cornering? My concern is if the overall diameter size would be too big? and would there be any issues with it being too big for the wheel wells?

Mine is pretty much stock though, just front mount intercooler and intake, other than that stock engine I'll try this guide for cleaning out the Idle control valve and hope it helps! http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?210956-How-To-Clean-Idle-Control-Valve-Cleaning-Aka-ICV-%28IAC%29 thanks

Would those kinds of things cause a bad idle? I didn't think of it but I'll check. I just don't find the car runs that smooth at all, and it has 69k miles while my old one with 90k miles ran MINT and SMOOTH, idle was like butter..

Usually I will turn the key and hear the fuel pump buzzing for a couple seconds. I will then start the car and it will idle at 1200rpm for a few seconds and drop down to about 700 and bounce back and forth from 600-700 and the car shakes non-stop for 1-2 minutes before it starts to warm up a little. Even today when I tried starting it this morning, it wouldn't hold it idle and went down to 100-200 and the car died... and there was this weird bubbling sound coming from the rear (I assume fuel pump). So basically the car runs like shit when trying to get it started from a cold engine. It's a 97 TT 2JZ-GTE. I have a light weight flywheel (if that has to do with anything), and the hard vibration sounds I hear seem to be coming from underneath me. Maybe the cat? I will be swapping out the cat with 1st and 2nd decat soon, installing walbro 255lph fuel pump as well (for my BPU upgrades).. but not sure if this will improve anything. Any ideas why its idling like this from my description? I mean once it warms up and I turn it off and the start the car it starts up just fine.

So I have an autobahn88 1st decate pipe, also a 3" HKS midpipe. Between both of these a restrictor ring will be fitted. I'm going to take the gasket to a machine shop and they will make it based off that, and once its complete a 2" hole drilled through the middle. My question is how thick is it supposed to exactly? so it will bolt up perfect? Of course that will go in the middle between both those pipes, and a gasket on both ends of the restrictor.

Yes you are right it was not about a part. It was about me going out of my way to advice a Supra owner about very possible history of his car that I knew about. And then he takes it personal and craps his panties because he thought I was trying to cause some bad in helping someone out. SO YES, I think a 285 tyre will be great on a 19x10.5! cheers

Why am I supposed to be not posting?

None handy at the moment, but you must be running a low offset. I forgot my exact offset, it was something like +36 or 37 ... 255 fills it out nicely.

The 19x9.5 fronts I am not worried because they have a 255/35 and is good with the fender. For the rears, with a +36 offset and 19x10.5 ... would a 285/30 be ideal? The rear fenders are fully rolled and just trying to fit the biggest tye under there. 295 is the largest I'd go with anyways but that might be tough?

I tried forcing the dashboard over it, even at angles and so on. It simply will not slide over it. I really don't want to trim the dash, maybe there is something from the inside blocking it, I'll have to check again.

So I'm having a few issues... I bought a BOSS single din stereo for my Supra. Which was replacing an aftermarket full size sin stereo it already had installed from Japan. I wired everything up and everything works good... Now the problem is getting it mounted to the stereo braket, I can manage to mount it with one bolt on each side but something seems a little off... but then I have this plastic insert which I got with the stereo which I can't mount either since barely any of the holes line up. So I was just going to leave the stereo in for now, when I started putting my dashboard pieces back on it also wouldn't clear the stereo. This seems like the biggest issue. This is becoming frustrating for something so simple >_ anyone see any problems or know whats wrong. http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/2074/img20120810223529.jpg http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/236/img20120810230116.jpg http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/5834/img20120810230128.jpg this is what I basically want.... from one of my old Supra's http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/4442/img20120716163119.jpg

So I have a factory moonstone gunmetal metalic supra (6N0) The roof and hatch has some paint damage, also just installed a new hood. So I will need the roof painted and blended just right before the quarer pannels, also the hatch. then for the front both the side fenders would be painted as well to match with the hood. while this is getting done I'm putting some new sides on So the only thing remaining will be my front bumper, doors, and quarter pannels (which were already repainted previously)... although the sides are in great condition and colour looks great. If I can get the paint matched up exactly like my quarters and doors you guys think I should be good? The car is going to my paint guy in a few days, he already said it will be no problem but I want to make sure.... because I'm open repainting the car but it will just take a lot more work and money of course.

I don't live in the UK so it might be more expensive here.

derp.. did not think of that I think measuring the distance of the holes and how far they sit away from the quarter pannel shouldn't be that hard to measure. Only part is how far it will need to sit back going vertically.. but I should be able to figure that out.

So I bought a Supra which same with some kind of wing, I then bought a TRD replica wing, and it did not fit. At first I thought it was a bad copy... but then taking a closer look, It looks like my Supra was factory wingless and just had the holes drilled to specifically fit just that spoiler it previously had. So I wanted to get my bodyman to weld those current holes shut... and I'll have him make some new ones to factory spec. I want it pin point in the exactly same spot like OEM. Does anyone know the best way around to doing this? I don't want to take a guess and just pop some random holes in the trunk