RB-GTE

Yes I've experienced everything on the MK4. 16" (on a TT with small brakes), 17", 18", and 19". I mostly went with them for the looks but kept performance in mind, got a good deal on the CE28 which are light wheels. Anti roll bar? thanks I'll give it some thought! So on my list now is Anti roll bar and some sway bars

when driving in a straight line! - - - Updated - - - Stock differential. Also it's a 97 TT 6-speed BPU 400bhp.

Wheels are 19" CE28 Hankook Ventus EVO V12 tyres True enough but I don't do any competitive tracking. I might hit the track 1 or 2 times a year at most. This is mostly a street toy. I want the longevity of my tyres since 19" were pricey. I am already satisified with the ride and feel of my MKIV. I'm just looking to make some improvements. I'll start with the sway bars As for weight loss, I could drop just a little I just did the basics so far such as removing spare wheel and all the useless trunk accessories.

This is my setup (excluding performance mods) 255 tyre front and 285 rear Ohlins coilovers Cusco front and rear strut bar Lance alighnment (although the shop that did it didn't do the exact specs, I'll have them corrected soon) Based on what I already have, what are some other upgrades I can make to increase my cornering and overall handling performance. Something that can make a noticeable difference. I know alighnment can make a big difference but I'd prefer one which results in having front and rear tyres flat on the ground to avoid uneven tread wear. What about sway bars? cheers

The Big TT brakes 4/2 piston combo

Got one of them off no problem. for the 2nd front I did, it wouldn't slide off the rotor. Actually when I undid the two bolts the rotor was also loose. I had to remove the whole caliper/rotor. The caliper for some reason wouln't budge or get off the rotor. Why is this, what's stopping it? I'll be getting some new slotted rotors, new brake pads, and painting the calipers soon. So wanted to know before hand thanks

Does anyone know what brands and makes have some front fenders for the Supra? I just rolled/pulled the front fenders, It was a pretty big pull and it does not look the greatest. It's really wavy along the edges. The car a month ago had the bonnet, roof, and hatch painted. Now getting the front fenders, doors, and quarters done. I mean my body man can work on the fender and for sure make it look nice and clean. I'm just seeing what my options are right now. From what I've seen everything is quite pricey. So just looking for some recommendations on front fenders! cheers

So I rented a Eastwood Fender Roller to flare my front fenders, so my new wheel setup doesn't rub at the front. As I started doing it I noticed that the rolling machine hits the caliper. I am only able to do the front end not the whole fender. So it looks like the only way to use this machine I need to remove the front calipers. Any instructions on how to remove the TT calipers? Couldn't find anything. I have no experience with it but I would imagine it should be pretty straight forward. The rotor and everything else needs to stay on. cheers

sorry I am not in the UK different time zones but any input would be great cheers

anyone

With my new aggressive wheel setup, I'll need the front fenders slightly pulled. The rears are fine since they have been extended on the last wheel setup. The stock upper mud guard is bolted to the front inner lip. I'm wondering for those who have done something like this, how were to able to keep your top mud guards mounted? I'm just trying to get it done right. Or even if you just rolled your lip flat.

For my new wheel setup, a little fender rolling/pulling will be required. I will see next week when I test fit my new wheels. The rears have already been rolled flat. Is it better to keep the lip rolled back againts the inside, and just pull the fender this way? Or have it cut? I figured if I leave it rolled it would help them have a stronger and better structure. The fender edge would seem thin and fragile if I were to cut the lip off? It won't be getting pulled too much, at most about 0.5" For the fronts, which are stock, I never paid too much attention to them. Do they also have a lip from the inside? or is there nothing there and I need to have them pulled. I understand the paint will crack, which I'm fine with since the car EITHERWAY is getting the quarters/doors painted, since the paint is mismatched to the hatch colour.

A airbag delete boss kit is basically a wheel hub with a plug, and the airbag plugs into it so this will remove it? I'm fine with buying one, the MOMO I didn't pay anything I had it laying around.

Yes I have the factory passenger airbag. So inorder for the passenger airbag to work, the airbag connector/resistor is what is basically needed?

That was a though but when I turn the ignition key ON I'd prefer that all lights are operational. Then when the car is started it would shut off.

The new steering wheel has no air bag. It's a 3 spoke MOMO race design. A resistor sounds like a good idea. So it tricks it into thinking there is an airbag plugged in Any idea where I could get one for the MKIV ? I searched and couldn't come up with anything. cheers

Yes I definetley disconnected the battery I actually quickly searched up the online instructions since I never changed the Supra steering wheel before. Also I checked out the link on mkiv.com have no idea what I just read, may have to go check for myself to see what the whole AB TC thing is all about.

So I removed the incredilby ugly Camry style OEM steering wheel, and replaced with a nice MOMO. What I did was unplug the airbag and removed it, then removed the steering wheel. For the MOMO after hooking up the HORN, the yellow wire/harness for the AIRBAG I just tucked behind the steering wheel hub on the MOMO... since this MOMO has no airbag. This airbag warning light is on the whole time now. I'm wondering what is the best way to get rid of it. http://imageshack.us/a/img841/4091/img20120925205230.jpg

He's running streched tyres thought but looks good! I'm fine with doing a little fender pulling since the car is getting paint work done. I'm more interested in seeing more 18" setups. As much as I love the look of 19" I'm thinking 18" be a better performance setup for daily driving.

Should have searched harder before I made this thread. Just found this picture, almost had a mild stroke because this supra is bloody gorgeous. Volk Racing TE37 19x9.5 +22. 245/35 Falken FK452 19x10.5 +22. 275/30 Falken FK452 with 255/285 I should be fine?? tyres are technically new so would like to keep them, plus this width combo handles great.

I am about to pull the trigger on my dreams wheels which are VOLK CE28 They are 19x9.5 +22 / 19x10.5 +22 I know the fronts will be rather fine with the 255/35 I'll be running. I am currently running a 19x10.5 +36 rear with 285/30 tyre. No rubbing problems on rolled gaurds. So with the extra +14 offset I think I'll need some pulling work. Looking for pictures of Supra's in similar offsets either 18" or 19" ! thanks in advance

Oh boy I love Ridox. I think I'll try and see if there is any chance mine could fit well, if not I'll look into getting a new one

Not my car but another members which I found picture of, mine would look similar if I were to go with that bumper setup I currently have a bad-fitting ridox

My previous 97 facelift Supra had the OEM JDM sides and rear spats, and for the OEM front bumper I installed a WEST WINGS style front lip with saved sides. Totally loved the look! The current setup on my new Supra is the same, except it has a replica Ridox bumper. The fitment is decent but the part that meets the bonnet has a 1" gap and really kills it. So either way I'm getting a new ridox front bumper from whifbitz, or OEM bumper with WEST WINGS lip? I also have a spare original bumper so I can make the change on my command! Ridox has very smooth lines and love the look as well but it has to be a good fit I am also considering top secret type II front. I just like a bumper that exposes the intercooler, stock covers it up for the most part. Car is moonstone so should look like this (lip sides would be shaved)

I have some Volk GT-V, which are either 2 or 3 piece wheels. They have a polished lip with fine silver center piece. I wanted to paint the center black and leave the lip chrome. The center piece is just bolted in. If I remove the center piece, paint it, and then install it back would that potentially mess up the wheel alighnment? just a random question I had. does it need to be torqued after or if I just tighten it back really hard that should be fine? when assembling the wheel back together. cheers