DJT88

Finally found the courage to continue with this. The project has been on hold for a while after I messed up the body and had to respray... Some pictures to show the progress. It's almost finished now, just have to put the headlight glass in and attach the side mirrors. Then attach the bonnet and find a way it stays up so everyone can see that 1:24 2JZ-GTE

Nice Supra. Looks completely stock. Personally, new rims would be my first update. And you're almost out of fuel

hmm, okay then. Better to have cleared that up at least

http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?56684-FAQ-Oil-Fluid-Interval-Capacity-Steering-Brake-Coolant-Diff-Engine There's all sorts of info in that FAQ. I've been using the BMW-MTF-LT2 now. But only for 2000 km. Anyway, so far so good.

As per title, lifted the cover a while ago to find one blank spot. Probably has to do with the traction control? But as far as i've noticed, that works just fine.

Are they numbered in order of production? I've got a jspec TT from '95. and a little under 31000

You could try gently tapping the dash, I've had mine out 3 times, and after putting it back in, it also didn't light up completely. An encouraging tap next to the cluster did the trick.

Looks like it is the same as mine, and YES that was a direct fit. Mine is a 6 speed TT, but don't think that makes any difference.

Not that I know off, and no remote also. I just lock and unlock with my key.

Hi, my situation is as follows: - Centrally unlocking the doors with the key in either door works fine. (the opposite door unlocks too) - Centrally locking the doors doesn't work. (I have to walk to the other side and lock it manually) - Pushing the buttons inside the car only works unlocking it too. (next to the electric window controls in the driver door) BUT: - both doors do get locked when I disconnect the battery. (So it's not the mechanism or control motors or anything) AND: - I've tried putting in a different Door Control Module (a blue one, mine originally is red) but this has made zero difference. So I'm thinking the problem must be somewhere in the route from the door contacts to the Door control module or ECU? I'm trying to find the appropriate schematics, but it's pretty cut up within the manual, you have multiple pages concerning this topic. If anyone has had the same or similar problems I'd be happy to know how to fix it or test certain things. cheers

DC-Automotive Mats (http://supramats.com) https://dl.dropbox.com/u/3472574/SupraMat1_online.JPG https://dl.dropbox.com/u/3472574/SupraMat2_online.JPG Fixing https://dl.dropbox.com/u/3472574/SupraMat3_online.JPG

Aah, that looks the same yes, Big thanks to all! Found the branding on the 'front' which makes sense now since the cables are usually on the back of things

yeah, thats what I thought. Any idea what kind? It doesn't show any brand or anything..

Hi, Just trying to get to know my car a bit better. What is the blue box in my passenger footwell, which sits (i presume) on top of the ECU? cheers

Okay, I might be getting somewhere now. I've managed to remove another piece of the air piping(picture). Now there's loads more space. I've managed to reach it, tried replacing it but it didn't matter. Passenger door is still not locking (only unlocking works like with the other module). Problem is probably in the door then... but which one is the next challenge

thanks, but I don't want to end up doing this (see picture) just to replace the door module which might not even fix my problem:

Hi all, Recently I've bought a 'new' door control module because I've been having problems with the passenger door not locking. Buy I'm having trouble reaching it. How to remove the vent in the picture. I can't possibly get acces through the hole I've created by removing the glove box. Some1 must have done this before but can't find a how to ... Cheers

Ah, OK then thats not a problem

Never tried starting mine without the dash panels, but wouldn't it make sense to need the top dash panel connected before it allows itself to be started? So the panel with the mileage and warning lights... Worth a try maybe, hope you get it sorted.

Is it the Starbo G-12? I used to have that one, but when it failed I just took it out. Below is the info I found on the thing. NOT VERIFIED, but possibly usefull. Installation of Starbo G-12 turbo timer. Having bought one of these for a steal, it wasn’t too much of a chore to set it up, although did involve a significant amount of interior disassembly to wire up the handbrake switch and find the tachometer signal wire. I thought I’d post what I’d done as there seems to be no information about installing these on the web. Wire identification: Three large diameter wires Blue, Green and Red – These may or may not be housed in a three pin plug that connects to the wiring loom. Mine had spade terminals on them and was in a three pin plug. One White, large diameter wire: Mine had a bullet connector on it. Two smaller wires, Blue and red. Both of mine had bullet connectors on them. Large Red: Connects to constant +12V Large Green: Connects to ignition wire and activates timer when it senses the key is switched off. (ie: IGN1) Large Blue: Connects to a secondary ignition wire. (ie: IGN2) Small Red: Handbrake sensor. This wire will have +12 V on it, and when grounded through the handbrake switch, it will allow the timer to operate. The timer will not function without this connection. Small Blue: Tachometer signal wire. When connected and the engine is running the green IGN light on the timer control panel will flash, and the engine revs will be displayed if you switch to tacho mode. The timer will not function without this connection. Large White: I assume this wire connects to the start wire to crank the engine for the auto start feature. I did not connect this wire. The auto start feature is not well designed. There is no detection of whether the vehicle is in neutral, therefore even with the handbrake on there is a chance the car may move if the engine is cranked. Not only is this not good for your starter motor, it is not good for pedestrians or cars parked in front of you. I am also unsure of how the timer detects that the engine has started, it appears to try to crank the engine for around ten seconds. It has never taken 10 seconds for my car to fire, therefore the timer may run the starter motor for too long – also not good. To set the turbo timer (when on manual) or clock, hold down the small set button and push the one to the left for hours, and the right for minutes. In auto mode, the turbo-timer sets an idle time based on your revs and the duration of your trip. If you idle in traffic for a while it even reduces the time required. Good luck and feel free to distribute this information around the web as there is no setup info available for this turbo-timer.

I can't be bothered to be that professional. If a decal is ruined I just leave it off. It's very delicate stuff and needs to be handled with care for sure. I had some throuble putting the decal on the brake calipers. (off course before putting the wheels on)

Maybe/hopefully before the end of this week...

Update,

Looks very nice! The sun makes it look very bright and more like yellow/gold.. Or is that only in pictures?