DJT88

I will try to get time off for this. So put me on the list.

You guys were getting some attention when you left

contents of video: - Thursday drive on coast road near Calais (2 Dutch cars) - Some highway driveby (2:46) - Hotel arrival - Red light ticket by french police - French kids waving - Almost crash on Roundabout (red supra) (05:30) - Honfleur carpark exit - Toll bridge - Some radio chatter about a wee brake (don't wee in the Do-Luck!) - some GTR footage JamieP

I have made a 10 minute video compilation of all my best footage. Will upload tomorrow

well on the bright side, sliding around corners is easier

Reading up on some stuff today... Could it be bad Knock Sensors or bad wiring of knock sensors?? Since they somewhat control (retarding) ignition timing.

Just checked the TPS, seems to operate perfectly fine. Closed = 0.6 kOhm Fully open = 3.7 kOhm. also no strange behaviour in between, seems to run pretty linear. idle switch

Thanks Ian, will try to check other stuff. Don't know if it helps, but it has always started OK when cold, but when warm, it needs the second attempt. First attempt takes forever(if at all), but second attempt is almost instant success.

Maybe an aftermarket one is easier for plumbing an FMIC. But seriously, don't aftermarket ones come with bigger throttle diameters?

This vid was without the piggyback did the same with it installed though. How would one go about checking the fuelling? Or would I be better off having it checked by a tuner/garage with the right know-how? If so, it'll probably have to wait till after Dragonball. Just have to limit the throttle on the trip and everything is fine.

Yup, that would be me, too bad you can't make it. who would be so kind and bring this along for me?

ok, without the piggyback same result... no problem there. but check this video out... (usually I'm not the kind of guy that revs their car without it moving) But when I floor it(stationary), it hesitates around 2500~3000 rpm. but flys up when it passes 3000 rpm. If I rev it without fully pressing the accelerator (feathering it somewhat half-way) it revs more fluently.

OK, I'm getting somewhere! I've just tried TTC mode succesfully. I can see the actuators and rods(to the valves) remain open and get a totally different engine sound. I'm also getting boost, so both turbo's are OK. HOWEVER, The issue that the car holds back above a 0.5 bar of boost still remains in exactly the same manner as before :O This makes me think I might have bad coil packs which can't handle higher boost than 0.5 bar(or my tuning is off). I've recently replaced all coil pack clips so they are OK. Spark plugs are in the car for about 2500 miles now. Next to try is running without the piggyback...

Hi thanks! yeah boost controller is on.. I can also hear it when boosting. I have made proper boost before, up to 1 bar and holding fine. I'm going to try TTC first today, but can't really go back to stock because I've found out that my IACV and EGBV vsv's are nackered. (Ohm value several 100 kiloOhms) edit: most recent changes are: CW SMIC and before that a Catback exhaust. Dyno I did over a year back looked normal(stock) to me, although the dip in power might be a little too much? https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3472574/Dyno_run_2011-10-26.jpg

Can anyone understand the setup, like it has been on my car? see pic above... especially the IACV part.. I can't see how it could have worked

Okay, so I understand why the Wastegate VSV and EGBV VSV are disconnected. Because the EBC controls this by using these as Wastegates. However, I am clueless as to why the IACV VSV is capped of from the boost line(pressure tank). Shouldn't this be operated as stock?? Also I've checked the IACV continuity and I'm measuring 400-600 kiloOhm. Which is not good(should be 38,5-44,5 Ohm according to the manual). So I'm pretty sure it's busted.

Looks like this is how my EBC is plumbed in. edit: updated picture, ecb also connected to EGBV #2 turbo. new picture again(Waste Gate vsv also no connector):

Yes, but it didn't really feel like any of those problems. But Ian's explanation made sense(ecu retarding timing etc.) I'm busy trying to map how the EBC is plumbed in now. Will update with a schematic once I've figured it out.

Very nice, as said before on the Dutch forum

I have just found out that there are some strange things with my setup. My IACV VSV didn't have the boost line attached to it. It was already capped off. (due to the nipple being broken off, and repaired by someone not willing to pay for a new one.) Don't know how it could have worked before :S Also, my VSV for the EBV doesn't have the plug connected but is tie-wrapped out of the way. This is how it was on the car: Broken off like this: Ordering new one tomorrow.

Ian, Thanks! Will try to check these things. TTC will be good to rule some things out. The piggyback was already installed when I bought the car, but yeah doesn't make sense for the few mods it has.

Will try fuel filter. Does make sense, and is indeed easy to try, just have to order it ASAP. Can anyone confirm my other question? Can I try without piggyback? Could it hurt? Last thing I want to do now is wreck something before DB.

Letting off and flooring it doesn't make a difference... It's like someone is slowly applying the brake whenever I press the accelerator too much(more if I floor it). But could it hurt to unplug the piggyback and plug the OEM ECU straight back? I want to exclude a mapping problem. edit: If I floor it, it doesn't want to clime past 4000 rpm, but if I hold back a little I can get it to 6000 no prob. (just with lower boost)