j.oe

I'll takte it. PMd

Not yet, will go for a dyno when i have installed my VVTi head

My favorite now is a billet converted S366, made by The Turbo Engineers. Base is a BWS366, but equipped with a 1.00 A/R T4 divided exhaust housing. TTE modifies the turbine wheel as well as they put in a billet 71 mm compressor wheel. The compressor housing totally was modified on their NC mill. The result is a 71 mm billet turbo with 1000 hp flow capacity that spools amazingly and makes 1 bar @ 3450 rpm only. On my heavily upgraded engine with 2 mm oversized valve seats and portet inlets it easily pulls 2 bar of boost up to 8500 rpm with a back pressure to boost rate of only 1.15:1 Makes the same torque @ 1.5 bar like a BL S366 @ 1.8 will do. The S366 w. 1.00 A/R T4 is available at Full-Race US. 71 mm conversion is approx. 700 GBP. Incerdible power and spool for an affordable turbo. Second pic shows the BL S366 wheel in comparison to the built in 71 mm billet wheel.

The kit shown wouldn't be my choice. It's a undivided exhaust system. With a divided exhaust housing and properly made manifold you will gain another 500 rpm of low end spool. Better watch out for a twin scroll kit.

Stock genuine Toyota oil pump, preferably a new one. Always remember: Those parts are up to 20 years worn out. I rised the oil pressure a little bit at mine. Simply add a M6 washer to the pressure regulating spring, that adds 0.5 to 1 bar tho the oil pressure. You find it by opening the hexagonal screw at the upper side. Be aware of the pre loaded spring, when you unbolt !

+1 Luc, exactly the same behaviour as mine. My BL upgraded S366 makes 0,15 bar @1900rpm. At 2300 yet it pulls lile a stock j-spec twin setup, with even more than that from 2600 up. At 3500 approx it feels like kicking in fully to the 1bar spring pressure i run at the moment. And there's no noticeable loss of torque even behind 8k. From 6k to 8k5 it flys like a 600cc motorcycle engine in high revs :-) Thanks to Paul Whiffin, he upgraded my S366 0.91A/R to the BL billet compressor. Great street turbo with lots of low end grunch along with incredible top end. Seeing that i'd never like to change to a bigger one while giving up 1000 rpm in low end response.

+1 Luc, exactly the same behaviour as mine. My BL upgraded S366 makes 0,15 bar @1900rpm. At 2300 yet it pulls lile a stock j-spec twin setup, with even more than that from 2600 up. At 3500 approx it feels like kicking in fully to the 1bar spring pressure i run at the moment. And there's no noticeable loss of torque even behind 8k. From 6k to 8k5 it flys like a 600cc motorcycle engine in high revs :-) Thanks to Paul Whiffin, he upgraded my S366 0.91A/R to the BL billet compressor. Great street turbo with lots of low end grunch along with incredible top end. Seeing that i'd never like to change to a bigger one while giving up 1000 rpm in low end response.

Hi Luc Really great results, my congrats too from south GER. I was very courious to see your dyno, because Paul upgraded my S366 .91A/R twinscroll to a BL compressor this year as well. At my cyl. head we enlarged the valve ducts by 2mm in diameter while keeping the stock valves. Then we ported the inlet and outlet ducts of my head and smoothened and curved all the edges along the ducts and inside the combustion chamber. In combination with my homemade power intake plenum with short runners, intake funnels and an 80 mm throttle body, the engine now revs up behind 6k rpm like a turbine :-) . I also upgraded to bc625 rods with arp rod bolts and head studs. My rev limit now is 8k5. So i'm very curious what numbers my engine pulls when i finished mapping it well to 2bar of boost. Are there any engine mods done to your setup yet, while you achieve amazing 750 hp at 1,5 bar only ? Jürgen, 40 km in the west of Munic

The problem should relate to the 1,1 mm gap those plugs originally have. Gap them to 0,6 mm and all will be fine. Had the same issue on mine.

They're known to be difficult to get them out. If too much force is applied, they brake and are trash. What i did: I pressed them out from the inner side of the wheel hub. Therefore i took a 12mm 1/4" nut, held it to the inner side of the sensor. Then i used a piece of metal i held to the nut's end long enough to reach 5 mm close to the opposite side of the hub. There i rhythmically and carefully leveraged with a flat screwdriver. It takes one or two minutes and the sensor starts moving an pops out without having been damaged. By no means you may try to turn them in their seat. If done so, they'll break. This method worked fine on two totally corroded j-spec wheel hubs.

Hi Paul Primarily there's no certain fwhp goal, however 800+ would'nt be bad too. And i know a billet upgraded S366 can do that. My head's inlets/outlets will be machined this march, whereby the stock valves will be kept. And i'll manufacture a higher flowing inlet manifold by myself + 80 mm thbdy. Therefor i'd like to add some flow capacity to my turbo as well. So the actual consideration is giving an upgrade to my S366 or better spending the money for a new and slightly bigger one (and selling mine). But i don't want to give up conspicuous low end response, i'd hate a turbo that doesn't kick in below 4500 or 5000. Cheers Jürgen

I'm considering wether to upgrade my BW S366 91/80 .91 A/R by a billet comp. wheel or better to buy a new billet S372. So has anybody here an idea how much later a S372 1.10 A/R or 1.00 A/R will spool up compared to my S366. Now the S366 makes 1bar@3400. Would hate to loose 1k rpm or more in spool. Any information appreciated. Cheers Jürgen

There only are 3"and 3,5" available regularly. What kind of v-band-junction do you need those for ? An option would be to try a 3,5", they're 15 GBP only.

For the V160 Gearbox Castrol Transmax Z should be fine. Be careful with the gearbox oil. Only a few oil types mix well with the gb internals. Jürgen

Hi Tim I also already did so. But first it's hard to melt a weld bed to the end of a thin cross section. And although @ my tuned diesel car the hoses always slipped of, 'til i took a hammer and forged a flange to each end rising 3mm at least. Cheers Jürgen

There's no problem at all in using stainless steel for charge piping. The only disadvantage is that it's heavier. And it's much harder to form a flange to it's end preventing hoses to slip off. Jürgen

Thanks mate Am i right on the assumption that your inj. values are in milliseconds ? If so, then 17,7 @ 7200 rpm means more than 100% cycle and is used to shut an overboosting engine down by fuel Do you have any experience wether there's a difference in changing the scale to milliseconds or percent inj. cycle that generally makes it work or not (correct and sensible values provided) ? I ask because we used the %cycle scale and typed in the values we logged right before the rev limit cut occured. cheers Jürgen

Througout a whole afternoon we tried to get the rev limiter cut work on my j-spec tt to rise the rev limit to 8k. Whatever we changed the values for wait time, factory rev limit (6500 to 7000), always the stock rev limit occurs between 6950 and 7100. Injector durations in the table are properly set to what we had logged at the rpm level before the stock rev cut occurs. Has anyone here an idea how to proceed to get this work ? Thanks Jürgen My car's specs: J-Spec TT, AT to MT converted MT stock ECU stock 2jz, BC264 cams, BC300 springs, retainers GReddy eManage Ultimate 800cc SARD injectors dual Denso 1020 in tank BW S366 91/80 .91 A/R twin scroll

Maybe the way i feed my twin denso1020 helps you: I didn't want to miss the ecu's security options like turning off the fuel pump when the engine stops. So i wired the fuel pump ecu output via a voltage divider 4k7 and 1k5 to GND to a darlington transistor. This trans. is pulling two relay coils to GND when it sees more than app. 5 volts at the dividers input, while the other coil sides have +12V ign. supply. Now each relay drives a fuel pump as soon as the ecu sends out either low or high mode voltage. But the relays fall off when the ecu does not. There could be said, this works like a 12V ecu mod with relay amp but still provides the ecu's turn on/off function.

The knob was here in GER within four days only after the payment was done. Fantastic service mate !! Cheers Jürgen

Hi You have a PM Cheers Jürgen

Hi mate I'll take the used one. PM sent

60GBP posted to GER ? Neither mine Jürgen

Hi Paul Initially i planned on completing my setup by a RLTC. But dude strongly recommended installing a syvecs instead of wasting more money on my Greddy EMU + Apexi-BC setup. dude is totally right, i agree. So put me on the list. Jürgen

Hi Stuart Did you leave for the carribean islands ? I PM'ed you for shifter parts and my diff last week.