David P

Maybe you're right, it's been after a double-garage for some time now.

My tyres are too wide to fit under but that's no excuse, I won't be making that mistake again. I thought I'd already used up my "9", maybe God is on my side after all? I'm fine, I've wrestled with Bob's drive many times, it's that or nowt, but today's January afternoon pit-stop diff-swap crossed the line. I'm lucky that my brain is connected to my ear-sight, which has allowed me to become a little wiser and older too. Amazingly no! The collapsed axle-stand laid flat against the bottom of the car with the bent leg buried into the drive, there's a scratch on the subframe. The car bellied out onto the loose stone which formed a Supra-mould, I wiped some dust off the bottom of the brake discs and that was it. All's well that ends well.

In the workshop there are 8 cars rescued from the crusher, 4 more wrapped up under the lean-to and a couple more on the concrete pad. I had access to work on the road-stone drive this afternoon, I was reluctant to swap the diff on this surface, but beggars can't be choosers and I want to move the project along. Trolley jacked it up, chocked the drivers side front wheel and as I have done many times before, supported the body on a pair of seam-seating axle-stands. It was a dim old day, so removed the wheels to let some light in then laid on the whoopee cushion and removed the 6 prop-flange bolts. As I lay there wondering which bolt to undo next, I heard a faint crunching sound and quickly wriggled out from under. CRUNCH The bumper brushed past my left shoulder on the way down. It was a very close shave and I'm lucky to be alive. There's a foot or more of compacted hard-core and 2 inches of road-stone chippings, but the ground's not quite level and one of the axle-stands wasn't happy about it. The mat I was laying on was directly under the diff before the car fell. These shenanigans used up the day-light, so I just checked it over and put it back together, the diff will get swapped in the snow soon. Fortunately, no damage was done, yet I'm beginning to think that God doesn't want me to finish the Project.

Cue Ed.

I wonder how many he'll sell at this new price? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-SUPRA-JZA80-2JZGTE-EXHAUST-DECAT-DOWNPIPE-PIPE-/220796965508?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AToyota%7CModel%3ASupra&hash=item3368865284

Mine is 11.5lbs (.8 Bar) 352 fwbhp, will be raising closer to 14.7lbs (1 Bar).

I'm amazed this hasn't been snapped up?

Dynamic compression North of 18(s):1 is the Kamikaze Line for a daily-driver.

I heard the bedlam and let it pass, put me on the list for when your dust settles, it looks as though the fystery will still be mucking around. I had the choice to work standing in 1" of mud or 2" of water over hard-standing, the mud was in the shade so chose the sunny water, there was no wind so I emptied out the back of my Supravan onto the roof and checked the battery, all looked fine, but nipping up the earth terminal gave back the missing volt. I was hopeful, but the 'shenanigans' now behave just the same at a volt higher. The jump-lead link made no change either. When I can next get to the workshop, I'll treat myself to some cross a job off the list therapy and do a nuts&bolts job swapping the diff, it looks to be turning too cold for a soldering iron job anyway!

Will be boosting mine to .95 Bar soon. The bhp 'round numbers' are there because that's what folks want to know. At the boost pressures given, each configuration would be around 18:1 dynamic compression.

NA-S associate membership?

It's generally accepted that when the piston to cylinder head clearance exceeds 1.5mm the squish effect is severely diminished. These figures have been gleaned from technical information linked in the thread, if you know better please enlighten us? T.T. pistons with T.T. head-gasket = static compression 8.1:1 ~ Capacity for more boost than bottom end can take and give a laggy launch ~ Squish 3.25mm T.T. pistons with N/A head-gasket = static compression 9.0:1 ~ Good for 2 Bar (99 RON) ~ Squish 1.14mm (750? bhp) N/A pistons with T.T. head-gasket = static compression 9.2:1 ~ Good for 1.8 Bar (99 RON) ~ Squish 2.15mm (700? bhp) N/A pistons with N/A head-gasket = static compression 10:1 ~ Good for 1 Bar (99 RON) ~ Squish 1.14mm (500? bhp)

Series one 30-1100. I 'angled' to do that last weekend, yet when I discovered what you are doing next weekend thought better of it.

T.T. pistons with N/A head-gasket ticks all the boxes with OE components. Capacity for enough boost to challenge a stock bottom end and gets my vote for "Baby Bears Bed". T.T. pistons with T.T. head-gasket = static compression 8.1:1 ~ squish over-size T.T. pistons with N/A head-gasket = static compression 9.0:1 ~ squish correct N/A pistons with T.T. head-gasket = static compression 9.2:1 ~ squish over-size N/A pistons with N/A head-gasket = static compression 10:1 ~ squish correct

I think I've filled the gaps in this one. T.T. pistons with T.T. gasket = 8.1:1 T.T. pistons with N/A gasket = 9.0:1 N/A pistons with T.T. gasket = 9.2:1 N/A pistons with N/A gasket = 10:1

Updated: T.T. pistons with 3mm gasket = Too low T.T. pistons with T.T. gasket = 8.1:1 T.T. pistons with N/A gasket = ? N/A pistons with 3mm gasket = ? N/A pistons with T.T. gasket = 9.2:1 N/A pistons with N/A gasket = 10:1 Which one's "Baby Bears bed"?

Give that man a Blue Peter Badge. I've updated one entry, I though stock T.T. was 8.5:1. ? N/A gasket is thinner, can you calc that one? T.T. pistons with 3mm gasket = Too low N/A pistons with 3mm gasket = ? T.T. pistons with T.T. gasket = 8.1:1 T.T. pistons with N/A gasket = 9.03 N/A pistons with T.T. gasket = 9.1:1 N/A pistons with N/A gasket = 10:1 Which one's "Baby Bears bed"?

Both engine and alternator have additional ground wires and the battery is as strong as it ever was, yet I've noticed a hic-cough and timing-spike sometimes, second or third attempt at cold start. I'll get it into "shenanigan" mode and then clip a jump-lead from the battery at the back to the OE positive terminal at the front and see if that shuts it up?

T.T. pistons with 3mm gasket = Too low T.T. pistons with T.T. gasket = 8.5:1 T.T. pistons with N/A gasket = ? N/A pistons with 3mm gasket = ? N/A pistons with T.T. gasket = ? N/A pistons with N/A gasket = 10:1 Which one's "Baby Bears bed"?

This is an electrical feed Gremlin. That's a conundrum too, the gauge reads 13.8v with an ignition circuit feed, or 12.8v with a constant positive from the original positive battery terminal.

After watching the Motec data-logging Webinar, I've broadened my horizons and discovered that the ignition begins dicking about just before the fans cut in, not because of temperature, but because at tick-over, that's when the voltage is at it's highest. At tick-over, just as the volt-gauge creeps past 12.8, the shenanigans begin, then the fans come on drawing current and cure it, turning on a couple of things cures it too. The 200 amp alternator has already been replaced with a stock auto 100 amp unit, so the battery has become chief suspect, I'll have it tested and also curious to confirm the extended cable I used is man enough for the job. Curiouser and curiouser.

http://www.suprastore.com/su2jsthega1t.html