rider

There is was a 'last one' option to buy a condenser on eBay at the moment. https://www.ebay.com/itm/185119347210

Looks to be two radically different whites. I'd say one looks like 040 Toyota and one looks MB Polar White.

If you are bleeding a system then you need to start at the furthest point from the reservoir and work your way around the car. If you are changing the fluid then I suck out as much of the oil fluid first from the reservoir and then top up to the brim with new fluid and just open each nipple and draw through the fluid until it runs new oil clear in the see through plastic line hooked onto the nipple. I doubt it matters which order when you doing a complete flush but I just do the furthest away starting point out of habit. Its all done car off.

If this set is still around and you want them gone then PM me a contact number and we will get it sorted.

It's covered around 115k miles, I think. That's what km gauge set 1 added to converted to miles gauge set 2 adds up to. No one who hasn't owned a car from new can know for certain the mileage on a chassis. With the sheer numbers of 20+ year old 40k mile Supra's that appeared from nowhere over the last few years, this auction car certainly isn't going to be the only Supra to have had a mileage correction at some time in its long history. That's an interesting topic in itself. I recall you'd only see the very occasional really low mileage car 15 years ago that had done like 40k miles. They were invariably all the later facelift cars. A proper rarity when the cars were at their low value point and a TT6 could be had for a little over £5k. Then, 10 years later the 40k mile cars began to reappear. This time, clearly nowhere near as rare as they had seemed 10 years earlier.

There is a repainted Supra up for sale in the USA that someone has done some detective work on. Sold as "The digital odometer indicates 94k kilometres (~59k miles), approximately 4k of which have been added by the seller." it was sold at a Japanese auction in 2019 with 259,000km. Must have been a lot of reverse gear driving since 2019. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1993-toyota-supra-100/ Another low miler bites the asphalt. I'm proud to own the only Supra that ever got itself driven in Japan, averaged 14k km a year.

There is a 6sp converted GE on eBay for £32k. I'd recon for £40k it is probably down to how much of a purist you are as original TT6's are few and far between in the classifieds and I haven't seen one for that price for a while now unless its a teaser ad from a well known Southern trader. More seem to be hitting classic car auctions these days than classifieds. Trawling and monitoring the auction sites like silverstone and brightwell could turn up something. Its not a particularly good time for anyone swapping a desirable assets for cash with rising inflation that we are witnessing eroding cash value pretty quickly. That should persuade most people to hold onto their assets unless its a forced or deceased estate sale with the latter an increasing source pool that will commonly head the auction route to sale.

People on the forum aren't allowed to discuss High Wycombe dealers. Make of that what you will. If its a newly imported car then there is no HPI history to check. You can run a Japanese history check but there has been some questioning over how accurate those records are. All you can do with any 25 year old car is go off the condition and regard mileage as just a number unless its backed by decades of corroborating paperwork. Spend more time looking under the car than on top of the car seeing most parts are now discontinued so worn parts are increasingly hard to replace with genuine parts these days.

To save the faffing around if no one else wants/needs these by the 25th I'll take them. Be interesting to see the finished digi dash look and info on how its been plumbed in.

Well done, advice is best sieved from many sources.

Suspecting a bubble pop on the 4th of December that started on the 11th of December2017 was timely advice. Whatever though - I really cannot be arsed

First interjection December 2017 - Bitcoin $20k, two months later it was $6k. Someone's maths is a little out.

How was anything shot down? You either talk, discuss and evaluate or you piss around in your own little world. As far as I am aware my two interjections in this thread have been just before a fall, to say it looks like trouble ahead. Two out of two isn't that bad, lets see how Bitcoin gets the squeeze and Thunberg'd for my pitch at three in a row. How long do you think Bitcoin has before it get Thunberg'd? Beating Ireland is old news, apparently with a 5 fold increase in power consumption in the last two years its now beating Thailand. You cannot really compare National crypto backed by a lender of last resort with non aligned International crypto. Nations will seek to muscle in and overtake the unregulated offerings in favour of regulated and taxed offerings. If you read around the subject the National plan is clear. Tie a crypto to the fiat and then enable it to be a normal spendable asset. In other words taxed, tracked and controlled.

You need to ask the one World forum for an insight into that. It likely depends on how much governments seek to regulate or ban the use of unregulated crypto with their regulated banks and retailers. With Bitcoin now consuming more electricity than Ireland it is going to have a big fall one day.

You can ask Toyota for a new set, About £600 a set.

All sales + 15% buyers premium. https://www.paineauctioneers.com/servlet/Search.do?auctionId=5194

That is why no one with a classic car should trouble themselves with AF. So you receive a quote that may be £20 cheaper than a useful insurer and then get low balled on the value, given only a few weeks grace and told to find your own valuer. A valuer and valuation that they may or may not give you the valuation that you 'desire' and AF may then be prepared or not to accept. You'll of course spend £100 to £250 on the valuation report that may be so much wasted money and paper, all to try and save £20. There are so many better, classic friendly insurers out there. Get your barge pole out and shove AF into the long grass.

Out of the factory there was a 10mm difference with the optional Toyota Billstein setup 10mm lower than the standard setup. I found that out when I had my chassis tune up. That was 10mm on each corner so no raking going on which would likely affect (worsen) your handling and fuel consumption over the factory setup.

If people are talking of filling rather than fabricating then I assume the rust is within the arch and has not migrated as far as the outer wing. That'd be an easy fabrication job to restore with a metal strip and then paint the arch, any decent welder could do it and anyone with a can of primer and a can of paint and a can of clear coat could paint it. Its only when you migrate around and onto the visible outer panel that you need an amount of skill to get a smooth on contour finish and well matched paint.

Those arches are a problem area being double skin spot welded (inner and outer panel seam), so its always going to have a water and grime ingress issue. I noticed some rusting starting on mine, must be at least 10 years ago, so I had it nipped by asking a body shop to sort and weld along the panel seam and its been fine since. It was a bit of overkill but stopped any chance of water getting in between the spot welded panels. They didn't get the colour match on the arches perfect but I'd much rather have a slight colour miss than rusting arches.

Is it facelift or pre-facelift. It makes a massive difference to its scrap value. The former has an empty chamber the latter has a honeycomb cat.

If you are doing a bleed the saying as told to me by an old master is start at the furthest nipple from the cylinder. Which in RHD Supra land is the rear nearside, followed by rear offside, followed by front nearside and lastly front offside. Power bleeding is so much quicker than pedal pumping so hopefully you have a pump ready.

There is a thread somewhere on this site where someone refurbished theirs by peeling them down and repainting with some Halford paint and it a looked good match to the original. I doubt anyone specialises in refurbing plastic panels other than dippers if you seek the carbon look.

If you are after an OEM one - good luck. They have been a discontinued part for 6 years. If you buy a old OEM one check the wear under the mount rubbers as they do wear away and do snap at that point. There are aftermarket bars available, mainly the three hole adjustable type where you can vary the stiffness. There is also occasionally a new (old stock) TRD racing red option that occasionally pops up on ebay.com but the occasional is turning to very occasional these days.