rider

I've just renewed my insurance and raised the level from £9k to an agreed £12k. I had the value for insurance at £4.5k ten years ago. Still a long way to go to match USA prices though I think it may well get back to the £20k I paid for it within the coming 5 years.

Just trawled eBay and the other usual sites and there looks to be around 30 Supra's IV listed. There used to be only a few years ago over 100 just on eBay. Where did they all go? Prices seem to have taken a recent large spike upwards, probably reflecting the limited availability. I wonder how many have ended up broken for parts.

Went through Heritage who arranged Chaucer insurance. I'm 55yrs with a clean record. No mods to the car beyond wheels and exhaust. Set it up on a 3,000 mile limit, was £30 more for 5,000 miles (I only did 1,100 mile last year). Excess is higher than on a non classic policy at £300. The reason I went classic was it didn't cost any more (was actually slightly cheaper) and offers the agreed value, I couldn't imagine Admiral stumping up £12k in a total loss situation.

I had the Supra on a multi-car but have moved it onto an agreed value (£12k) classic car policy for £220. As a stand alone I could have got it insured for £174 but on the multi-car it was £260. So a £40 saving with the added benefit of agreed value rather than market value. Insurance also covers track days.

There may be some daylight in this Prelude restricted revs on a new build thread. http://www.preludeonline.com/f60/rebuilt-engine-will-not-rev-past-3000-rpm-s-238501/ Goes on about a throttle sensor fault.

No, didn't paint above either of the arches. Good guess though. It is actually painted the wire wheels, both arches and the sills up to the bottom of the door level. On the other side of the car there was some surface rust on the lip of that rear arch which I did paint but this side was fine apart from the rims. Even if you are up close you can't tell its been painted, its a quality job from someone with little painting experience. So, for the sake of £40 on paint, lacquer, filler and sanding sheets if it was me I'd give it a go. If it works out then £400 saved. If it doesn't then its going to look better than it does and maybe good enough to live with. So, nothing to lose really by giving it a go and if it works out you can stand back and admire your work which I do every time I wheel out the MGB that I splashed almost 600ml of paint over bringing it up to my required standard.

I don't think so. Tell me which bits I painted on my MGB from this picture.

This is sensible as it'll help eliminate corrosion setting in the internals of the engine and ensure all seals remain 'wet'. The real danger though is someone turning over then engine without draining it first to the required level so second best is a new charge of engine oil just before storage, better still two oil changes. That'll remove all or most of the oil that contains combustion products and lower levels of acid regulators and anti-corrosion additives than fresh oil. Aside from that the only things I'd do is just sit on jacks to take the weight off the tyres to prevent flat spots. Remove the battery. Plus add a mouse trap or two inside the car, not the old spring ones but the containment boxes.

Usually available on eBay. I got a full set off there.

If you have an air compressor or access to one I'd recommend giving the paint job a go yourself. You can buy touch up guns with a 0.8mm nozzle (£25) for fine touch up area work which I have used with a surprising degree of success on an MGB I've touched up (well it was more than a touch up - 800ml of paint later). So long as you get a good colour match and any good auto paint shop that retails to the trade should be able to colour match into aerosols or paint. If you can't get hold of an air compressor then colour matched rattle cans work well. I was a reluctant body repair and paint sprayer but after dabbling with my MGB sorting out chips and minor surface rust I've just done a whole re-spray on a Land Rover last week with pretty decent results. There are loads of youtube videos on how to prep and spray paint, including setting up the gun properly. From small touch up jobs to full panel paints. I found out it all comes down to surface prep which is laborious and fast confident spraying.

My car has just passed it's 16th MOT and I've owned it through all 16. MOT tester comment was has it really been a year since.... It sailed through again, as it has every other time. Do Supras ever fail their MOT's, what are the normal failure items? Is my car unusual, its still running the original bulbs apart from headlights that I upgraded to HID?

A minute with a small blow torch and the Loctite that is used on the bolts melts and they can then be easily removed. Changing the side rubber stops should only be a five minute job. An eternity if you don't heat the threads though.

I've had my Supra TT6 on a multi-car policy but I have decided to move the Supra to classic car insurance and the other car on the policy to its own full no claims policy providing a saving of £160. Beyond the savings the advantage of moving to classic insurance is obvious for any appreciating vehicle, namely the agreed value. The current provider will only insure to market value whilst I have set a £12k value for agreement with the classic insurers. From my dealing with this kind of insurance on other vehicles I own the valuation has never been questioned. If I were a one car owner then I could get the Supra insurance at £170 so its only a route to consider for multiple car owners.

Think mine is one of the longest continual ownership of the very same Supra. Purchased it in Spring of 1998 so that's 17 years. It was just 2 years old then - purchase price £20k with 22k miles. That's a todays equivalent price of £32,540.

All I'm saying is I was a young man when I bought my nearly new Supra TT. We have grown a bit older together.

Boost would be the first thing to look at as it'd tell you if there is a vane problem or air leak. I'd look first at the hoses and pipework, my Supra lost boost a few years back and its was a loose hose leading into the throttle body. Simple push on and screw the clip down tighter and fixed. If only all boost issues were as easily fixed.

You'd be surprised. It holds on bits of exterior trim and badges at up to 200mph.

Sealant is commonly applied to trim and badges so black silicone in a tube or cartridge would be good. I find though that once the cartridge is opened any remainder cures pretty quickly so its best to get a small tube unless you have lots to get done. the other good thing about using the silicone adhesives is they mould to the parts and can be easily removed at a future point.

I have always found my Supra to be one of the more economical cars but then I've never been a big fan of bolting expensive bits on. Beyond your usual service items its had nothing mechanical done in the 17 years I've owned it. Things like the radiator, intercooler and condenser have worn out but even those would normally be regarded as serviceable items every 20 years or so. The MGB was my money pit, threw well over £2k at that within 3 months of purchasing it. That tends to be the way I do it, get the vehicle to top notch then maintain it there. I've convinced myself that that is the best approach to maximising enjoyment and minimising expense.

Like the TVR as a possibility, always mused over a Cerbera since they first came out but the ones I've seen the doors or bonnet fit is horrendous. Maybe a series one Mustang next or possibly a e-type roadster. I'll have to save lots of pennies for the e-type or throw in my entire car collection in part ex.

It'd probably be better if a mod moved this thread to the technical section. You can get uprated steel wheel (UK spec) recon turbos for around the £600 from renowned traders. I looked into it a year or so back but my ceramics just keep on turning just fine.

My Supra TT isn't getting out much these days as I've a fair collection of vehicles. The garage, barn and drive way now has: Toyota Supra 6sp TT (1996) - for fun Mitsubishi L200 (2007) - for towing Audi A3 2.0tdi (2007) - for long hauls Vauxhall Corsa (2004) - for teaching daughter to drive MGB Roadster (1971) - for fun Land Rover Series 2A (!969) - for bumpy fun I miss not having as much time to dedicate to the Supra, she's only putting on about 2k a year now, but all cars need to be used to keep them in good condition and I only travel around 8k miles a year. Is 6 being greedy, but then again I'm thinking of adding more classic cars to the collection. What to do?

It does sound like a turbo seal is on its way out but there are other things you can easily check for. Is the oil level correct in volume and colour? If it is then its not overfilled or likely to be a head gasket problem. Worn valve guides could be another cause but that's not going to suddenly have happened. So, I'd recon on turbo seals which is an expensive bummer.

I've steam pressure washed a hot engine bay with absolutely no issues. Just made sure its dried before starting up again, which is where a warm engine helps. Used degreaser and alloy wheel cleaner on the alloy bits.

If you want to spend £50k on something that'd be worth £60k in 5 years rather than £30k then it'd be a e-type roadster V12 for me.