jagman

you can check at the starter relay - one contact is voltage via 7.5 fuse - ignition switch , neutral switch to the contact , the next contact on the relay is voltage from large supply fuse to relay , this is the voltage supplied to the starter , you should feel the relay click , if clicking - then its likely the starter motor itself and it requires battering with a hammer in the first instance - then removing stripping cleaning fixing or a replacement - simple voltmeter tests needed

Looks like a simple receiver and key paired , probably based on an existing toyota set up . It was never a factory option so rather than alter the assembly line production it was offered as a dealer install - For ease of install it was made plug and play , splicing into the original door control unit connector . but it needed power ,so an extra power feed had to be spliced in somewhere . For ease of fit and no other mounting area ,they bunged it under the seat - the door locks will work exactly as the non keyless car . Apparently this is progress , from a key in the door ,to a fob , and now to just having a fob in your pocket and close to the car , it was all just too much effort previously ,and only £1000 to get the latest system fixed ...

It is indeed a big con , it's not a surprise to the Owners/directors that a company has gone bust , they have known for ages and done their plundering before hand , taking out bank loans , selling company offices and lease back deals , moving assets into untouchable places . If it was foreign owned (many are) the money disappears even faster !!! The owners/directors/senior management all move on to the next project with the loot What's left goes to the liquidators/administrators usually as a percentage deal of the total assets of the company (a percentage of what is at best confusing and calculated by the Liquidators) In short it is always the workers who lose out , either those who work for the company or supply the company , people who actually work always always lose ....those are the rules Sometimes companies linger on , often reducing wages as the "solution" , normally this means there is a pension fund that someone needs to work out how to plunder .....maybe another company can buy it out in total and "restructure" ie plunder some more . It's modern business , a conmans chess game ...

The UK market is small so a good test area for feedback , the reception is down to Toyota marketing and product design , Not enthusiasts , wishy washy part information and press releases that say very little , even now no one knows the specs , how can anyone get enthusiastic over something with so little information . As a £50 k car it’s competing with every sporty car including the GTR ,all the sports cars do , TT-RS is a fast as a Ferrari or faster ......Toyota....... go and compete !! Yesteryear is history.....make new history now

I guess they don’t know where to go with the car : so keep options open , use marketing for feedback , press and people and internet then finalise the spec . There is no point offering a car no one wants , and the competition is fierce in this area . The gap in time between the mkiv and this is large and no brand loyalty to fall back on ie updated tweeks to the original over the years. So something like say an Audi TT-RS has to be bettered : £50k , 400 hp , four wheel drive , magnetic shocks, good build quality and interior, some high tech in the mix - ultimately 0-60 circa 3.6 sec and 180 mph - 11 sec qtr mile Aftermarket stage 1/2/3 adds 100-200 hp and an ever growing list of hardware , tuning access for torque limiters , and engine control not hidden in algorithms to make life too hard . To be blunt is the new offering going to spank a 600hp Audi TT-RS and for how much ? Or Alfa Or Porsche or ... Who wants to come second??

Been there about three or four times : each time bar one had a similar outcome , filled in all the relevant paperwork , waited a couple of years and got paid enough for a value bag of crisps - the majority of the money was plundered by the administrators/liquidators. They had things like asset sales where they sold maybe £200k of stuff , got £10k and admin cost of £15 k ??!!? The one time it did not turn out like that , I had the foresight to remove some equipment before it all went Pete tong - very high value equipment that had a knock on cost to the company - I got in quick before the locks went on the doors and “held “ the equipment pending settlement of invoices - lots of threats but ultimately they paid me very quickly and got the stuff back !! Don’t know the legal details but possession rules - I had it and they wanted it . I know dozens of people that this has happened to , it’s common in my game and seldom works out if owed money - the game is rigged !

Also I have a flappy paddle steering wheel , and a laminova oil cooler , the box has a temp sensor in sump and the oil cooler an electric fan -the job lot for a conversion (box is also shimmed) (david P rebuild)

I do have a suprastick and display and an uprated autobox supra/soarer hybrid and oil cooler ,maybe a deal on your manual box and i would go manual -although i might break the R154

50:50 You have done well ! I would say around 10% actually are of any quality ,the majority of modern cars are electronic controlled and knowledge almost zero , not helped by plug in diagnostics for the brain dead or manufacturers hiding all useful information like state secrets . Attention to detail and basic practices are poor ,organisation even worse and the endless money chase can cause all sorts of wierd results ,lack of oversight and very poor training are at the root of the problem....

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/attachments/f11/29868d1294073808-modifying-three-phase-motors-single-phase-use-steinmetz-connection.jpg Probably wired like this - any flash,bang , smoke and flames and I'm out ...... I did say probably ....

Sometimes a good old whack with a nylon hammer on contractors can free them up !!!

K1 is probably an on/off contactor and k2 and k3 are start and run contractors , k2/3 should have capacitors that they switch in (could be the two black boxes at the bottom - can't really see on my iPad ) - capacitor could be blown or a contactor not switching them in . Even if you get in a electrician - either the contactor or capacitor will need replacing (most likely defect) - depends on how much parts are and the electrician cost - if it pays to just fit new ones and see

Start capacitors are used on single phase and usually in the motor connection block on the motor -3 phase motors are self starting (if all three phases are there ) Is it single or 3 phase motor?

Looks like a 3 phase motor and it could be 2 phasing , you will have to check the contactor output is correct as one contact burnt out is possible - select in on and check supply at output contacts of contactor Can't see any capacitors in that box at all - any used are usually quite large

check the power steering air contol valve and hoses

On rubbers it prolongs them due to a barrier for oil water UV light , road de icing salts , so basically you can cover everything bar bearings - I have covered everything diffs , driveshaft , arms , boots, calipers , brake cables wire looms connectors all with no problems at all - many times over - I have also done disc rotor (the inner part and the edge and cooling slots with no detrimental effects ) paint it on with an artists brush ) -it's fabulous on wheel inners and FMIC /oil coolers/Ali rads

I have used AV8 for many many years , it works , and is fast to do - Choose where you spray it carefully , it's a liquid and drips for a few mins - it will dry on your drive and you won't get it off , plastic sheet below or do it on gravel ( it will stain gravel but you can brush the gravel over hiding the dinitrol) You won't get it off clothes , no matter what you wash them with so old T shirt or paper overalls , it's a mare to get off skin -gloves and if it drops on your hair - haircut may be necessary Door panels a light spray at the top and it runs down the whole door - open them and put a cloth under the drain hole , boot floors remove the Bung / grommet at the bottom and place a rag below , when in the boot spray the rear inner wing area , and let it run down , if you can try to get into the wheel arch lips front and rear . The Lower radiator xmember is a favourite for rust , coat this area and fuel /brake lines If it goes on exhaust , it smells for a bit but will burn off The real problem areas are the sills and access is very hard , I have just drilled a big hole before with a hole cutter , sprayed inside and then dipped a rubber Bung in av8 and popped it in and let it dry I'm probably the only owner of series 2/3 Jag XJ6/12 parked outside with spaceship miles and no rust !!! And a gravel drive which will also never rust , well the outline of a car bit anyway -lol

There are some differences to the wiring between soarer and supra and facelift supra - the soarer the main ECU is supplied by IG2 from the ignition switch ,the supra uses IG1 contact , the soarer has the fuel pump suplied via its FPECU via the EFI MAIN RELAY , this is controlled by the ECU and has a built in delay to shut off the fuel pump of a couple of seconds , this is to keep a prime fuel pressure ready for the next start on switch off - what chris said : some crossover is holding the ignition live in place of the fuel pump

Dinitrol AV8 - http://www.virginia.edu/cese/research/CPC%20Report.pdf This is exactly what you want , see link for pictures of its leeching ability between joints - no removal of parts It was developed years ago for aircraft , non aerosol - so you can put it in a plastic trigger sprayer (£1) and off you go , no negative effects on plastics or rubbers and can go over hoses and lines , it will protect rubber bushes and prolong life of them - just do not spray on bearings - it's not a lubricant . Wheel wells are sprayed in the stuff , high speed water is flung off wheels into this area , deicing fluids are also flung into this area - it does exactly what you want it to do . A golden transparent film is formed and drys in about 1 hour - a hard coating that will last years , it can be removed with a solvent and rag - it's a mission to get it off hair/clothing/hands New allow wheels - it's perfect for the inner surfaces , leeches into bolts on 3 piece rims and gives a gloss even coating - no brake dust worries ever , 5 years later wipe off with solvent = wheels like new !! It's cheap it's fast it's easy and it works - in one hour you can do the whole car - under the radiator is a good spot and the lower radiator,FMIC Ali won't corrode - it's not the prettiest stuff, better on brand new surfaces as it traps dirt on surfaces -but over existing black under seals barely visible - Lazy mans corrosion protection - exactly what you are looking for

The flaking of aluminium is called exfoliation corrosion - once the surface is penetrated the corrosion spreads along the length just under the surface , it causes a visible bulging , eventually large chunks just fall off and it's like cheese underneath , soft and grey/white - coatings prevent this happening , clad aluminium and chemical conversion coatings like Alodine

Oh yes aluminium does perforate and flake , I've spent half my life checking for exactly that, lol - aircraft skins also have the added issues of Coca Cola,deicing fluids,urine,various chemicals,acids and alkalis , salt water (carrying things like fish) , and constant water - warm air inside and minus 50 degrees outside causes massive condensation which runs down to the bottom and to drains . That's why we use Alodine,etch primer,paint , alclad ,dinitrol and millions of man hours checking for corrosion Mercury is about the worst thing , a thermometer spill can cut through Ali like cheese ,salt water not far behind

Dinitrol AV8 is the answer £35 a tin for a complete car

Start with the ignition switch - it has a few contacts each send power to different circuits , IG1 I think (black yellow wire feeds the instrument supply fuse - IG2 is working as the car starts

Very poor show from car manufactures , during build a simple coating brushed on the aluminium with alodine solution before painting and there endeth the corrosion problems - aircraft are aluminium skins and parked outside 99% of the time - they don't fall out of the sky with holes in the skin every day even at 40 or 50 years old !

Often power steering issues are down to the reservoir , in the reservoir is a steel wool/mesh type filter material - over time this clogs with brown gloop . The faster the pump runs the more fluid has to pump and return ie flow - now the clogged filter restricts and the power steering won't run - I have had this on 3 separate cars In the first place remove the filter material , remove the reservoir and clean it with a solvent - derv works , then refit and top up the fluid , check there is a good return flow to the reservoir , you can see it with the cap off . This should be a routine thing every ten years or so