jagman

Yep , they have been fitted and blended along with the rear /sills and arch gaps sorted , I used some aerospace products for this , the downside is ,it cannot now be put back to stock - carbon work in progress

How did you check for boost leaks and did you go over 16 psi?

This design requires airbrush work to fade colours, and shading to get a 3 D effect and also putting into the headlight and across front , through rear lights and across.

At some point , I had to choose what colour I want to go with , so after some time I decided to go with an old school design - years ago it was popular to go two colours , I remember an old Rover p5b coupe that a neighbour had Purple over silver . It is very very difficult to do two colours on a car and not all cars suit it ...... So a few hours google images for inspiration ... and I found a design I liked , and stole it

The car had corrosion in the passenger side sill, the rest of the underneath was in good order , I got a new sill from Toyota , but they only do a repair section for insert welding , so I got a complete sill from Keron , which extended beyond the area of corrosion , this was stripped , inspected and insert welded to the original structure. Why only one side corroded - I think it’s probably down to being the kerb side of the car so gets more water and crud ,plus cars lean this side due the road camber and makes a water trap . If supra buying - a good area to check as it’s not an easy repair.

You can fit higher wattage bulb in stock - crap You can fit HID bulbs in stock - blue crap You can fit LED in stock - white crap You can fit HID in new projector - now we can see at night You can fit LED in new projector - oh yes You can retro fit new OEM from another modern car (with projector-D2S and such) - just like any modern car - you can see great at night . You can retro for spanking new look round corner matrix lights - but would cost more than a new car . Morimoto projector and bulb and ballast is probably the best cost/performance , or just do nothing and wipe out small mammals at night

Inside :

Previously:

In your case it’s not so much the boost level as the duration on boost , road use you cannot maintain the boost as you get arrested quick smart , on track it’s repeated boosting for longer durations - heat builds in the turbine housing . Boost level max is dictated by the speed of the turbo , and it’s design (map) - to go higher you need to alter the compressor efficiency - this means shaping the airflow into the compressor and injection of water - I would like to exceed 3 bar In multistage compressors shaping is done by altering angle of attack on each stage , but our compressors only have one “stage” and it’s centrifugal

The car started as a stock auto TT , from here it had a rebuilt engine , bottom end , cams and the usual engine upgrades internally , single turbo ( precision 67) boostlogic manifold , injectors , pumps , fmic and so forth . Next was a boostlogic gearbox , rebuilt and included new billet sprags , Kevlar clutch pack and such . U.K. brakes , coil overs added , then a custom leather complete interior, roof and all. The mandatory 3 piece rims , deep dish added . So now at low boost 1.1 bar mapped up to around 520 hp and similar torque . At this point I decided to run much much higher boost , so I spent a few years doing research, many papers read and as much info I could get talking to people who have been in the very high boost area at a professional level. During this time I collected the necessary parts and and data collection equipment- Some things have been started already , such as the twin intercooler system both air and water(charge cooler),and a twin coolant stat system , other bits I will explain as I go . Much is based on CHT data , so 6 thermocouples are monitoring this for thermal loading . Now I’m doing the body work , over the years one sill developed holes and needed doing so I thought sod it , I will address the whole car , go wider rear , new front , skirts and so forth .... So then the car was stripped to a million bits , wings off , glass off , and much bare metal ...... bodywork progressed - now decide to custom paint with air brush work and carbon fibre work ,coloured clear coat over carbon, soda blasting work , the bare metal dictated the use of epoxy primer work (the correct way of doing this ) So plenty of things that people may be interested in ...pictures will need putting in sequence

My car is currently in body shop for work , not the normal simple respray , but a more complex job , panel blending , some custom stuff , carbon work , air brush work , bare metal strip and sill repairs - it could be of interest in the project section for those wanting to see how bodywork progresses and then in the engine modification area post bodywork . It may even put people off going down this route due to the cost and complexity involved :blink: It's never easy or fast or cheap!!!! Lots is done already and on the home straight ..

Larger discs will dissipate heat better simply via a larger surface area , but forced air cooling would work far better , a simple elect fan (£30) some flexi duct pipe and most critically a means of directing the air exactly onto the disc centre - some bracket/mounting on the dust plate ,the closer to the disc the better - The negatives are few, mainly extra heat is pushed into your wheel rim and heats tyres but this will vary depending on clearance of your wheels ,spoke design and a host of things beyond your control - lots go bigger at large cost , few add extra forced cooling at low cost

The boost cut is controlled by the stock ECU at a set voltage (this varies a bit car by car) , this voltage comes from the map sensor via the emanage - the emanage acts as a voltage limiter making sure the ECU won't see the cut voltage So a few simple voltage checks ie what's going into emanage , what's coming out of the emanage to the stock ECU ? What are the the settings on the emanage to limit the voltage ? Things like the cam and crank sensors can also cause limiter/misfires , if the crank sensor is wired backwards ie pos to neg and neg to pos or loss of the screen on the cable - this causes high rpm misfire at the same rpm on load - again a simple con check of screen and pos neg before replacement . These snags can be a mare and end up simply replacing components after wire checks - gets expensive and time consuming - I've chased a misfire for ages before .

sold !!

I have a front and rear and side skirts and rear sides all in silver

A very quick check = make sure the calipers are the right way round , they can be fitted backwards left - right , right -left , this moves the bleed nipple top - bottom and vice versa - the result is you cannot bleed all the air out , it remains trapped in the caliper - it's one of those " Doh! "moments .....

You can fan assist an oil cooler with a small fan , power ,rpm and time are the main factors in heating oil up , drag racing the time duration is small so a lesser effect than track racing , track use and or autobahn driving are the biggest oil heating issues - sump return of 100 degrees isthe target ,this is the coolest oil temp in the system ,all other oil temps are relative to this . the highest oil temp would be around the rings and way over the sump temp , so if your sump is say 120 and not 100 -the other temps are also plus 20 , the oil thins and film thickness reduces with temp - every oil has its limit

The most common issues with the limiters are when swapping to a manual gearbox but still using the autobox ecu , plugs disconnected on the gearbox that need a signal ,but anything is possible once wiring is disturbed ie ecu piggybacked or connectors disconnected and reconnected -a simple check at the ecu pin for correct earth or voltage is required

"You also have another electronic issue that has lowered the engine rpm limit." As I have already pointed out there is a Rpm limiter that is to do with the park /neutral/ drive selection and I think it's around 5000 rpm - even if the box selects gears and the engine starts if the ecu thinks it's in park the limiter kicks in . The ECU has a few "limiters" each at a different rpm and each for a different reason and they do not always show up on self test of the ECU

Its worth checking the S wire (sense) -this connects to the battery via the ALT S fuse and provides the alternator with the voltage of the battery , hence -sense , if this wire or the fuse has a high resistance , loose or rusty fuse connection for example , the voltage sensed is low ,so the alternator pushes up the output voltage to correct the low voltage - this can boil the battery due overcharging . these are old cars with old wiring and often messed about with ....

Voltage regulator , diodes , slip rings , windings , and bearings can all go faulty , not worth repairing as the alternators only last around 100000 miles , usually inner slip rings worn out - just accept that they are consumeable like tyres and replace the alternator every 100000 miles . It’s part and parcel of owning an old car , battery ,alternator, crank pulley,water pump and so on will fail - you just replace them with new

I think you will find its the same with bigger jobs too , I'm restoring an old (1824) building close to where you are , big problems getting builders who know what they are doing , lime motor and plaster work , stonework , etc , let alone turn up . After about a year , it seems DIY is the only way forward , even the electrical instal is problematic , I'm fitting a modern DALI lighting system , but it seems that no "electricians " have a scooby do about modern lighting systems , I'm having to explain how it works and should be wired , but I can't sign it off that's got be done by electrician who does not know how it all works - go figure Render / insulation I'm using Bauwer light , a modern insulation system , but plasterers know nothing about it , I'm having to explain .. So I've had electricians , plasterers, carpenters , all who don't know their own trades , now followed up by heating engineers , structural engineers and architects who also don't know their trades - it's the modern way ..... Provide poor skills levels at outrageous prices if you can be bothered to turn up at all ...... I'm sure there are quality builders about , it's just they are massively outnumbered and you don't know who they are ,everyone has a mobile phone , builders have special phones with no date or clock on them and they only accept incoming calls , sometimes -lol

Somewhere in the back of mind is something about a rev limiter around the 5000 rpm area , when the auto box is in neutral or in your case thinks it’s in neutral -!part of the NSS switch function

Guess im wrong then on the vvti , strange since ive had one for years , yes cams are available , crower etc , but tuning the vvti requires an ecu that can do it , here its more tricky ,hence ECU comment , there was an APEXI PFC but these are no longer available and were made on such a limited run that ive spent 8 years looking for one without success ,they are also soarer specific and the chaser one wont work -ive tried , yes there are ECU S available but you also need someone who is used to tuning them and altering the vvti . Things like the throttle control ecu can give problems ,again soarer specific and linked to the trac system -try find one of those boys !!! yes you can get round it ,just spend more money . the guy has already expressed concerns about ECU and mapping and cost ,let alone the re wire of looms , you do know there is only one wiring diagram available and that is not holeshot correct . 600hp is close to the MAF sensor limits , just add money ,solved ,its a great engine sure but you MUST have the budget available , there are far more used parts available for the non vvti ,injectors and so on ,to help reduce costs . Soarer vvti spares from breakers -forget it ,i think there is one car in the whole uk breaking and there are not that many chasers ,there are usually a few complete engines available (chaser) Its simply easier to buy the car you want completed that someone else has overcome any and all issues and drive it next month just in time for spring . ive also got a single turbo 1jz over 600 hp ,and you dont think ive gone past 20k pounds on that -lol