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Everything posted by GMan
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Thanks for the comments Guys Correct, with upgraded ceramic pads and High quality Temp Resistant caliper paint They are loads better than originals but mostly down to the better pad compound braided lines and fresh fluid, not the discs themselves but see below Mostly correct, on this car they are mostly for looks as I don't track the Supra, It's my daily Driver. My track car is a Nissan skyline R33, we did a few tests two years ago with a Laser thermometer and stock vs drilled and slotted discs Initial stopping distances were nearly identical (The Drilled and slotted beat the stocks by 1.5 feet on an average of 3 stops from 40 mph. The difference is temperature! The stocks were at 180C after the 3 stops and had cooled to 105c after 3 minutes of driving in a circle in the parking lot We allowed the brakes to cool and swapped them out, keeping the same pads The Drilled and slotted were at a nearly Identical 171c after the 3 hard stops After 3 mins of driving in a circle? an amazing 68c! at the Nurburg ring my old brakes used to fade like the French Army in WWII It really takes a pounding to do them in, Usually I over heat the tires first. So all my cars get them now. and Yes Cheap ones will crack, I only use cryo treated rotors. 2+ years of constant abuse on my skyline an not even a hairline crack, My stock rotors were full of small surface cracks and warped and they were only a year old! On the street use only supra, I expect They might out live the motor, (I just passed 160,000 kms or 100k miles)
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Vacuum is a excellent insulator, heat does not transfer very well as radiation, it would take a very long time to freeze. The biggest problem with jumping into space would be explosive decompression. as we all have internal pressures in our bodies that would cause damage to if the outside pressure were to drop to zero instantly. (Think of your ears on an airplane and multiply that by 100) That's part of what causes divers to get the bends. Secondly as you lower pressure the boiling point of fluids drop rapidly,All of the fluids in your body will start to boil in fairly short order if you were to jump out of an airlock causing massive tissue damage. so while a human might survive for a few moments in vacuum, they would be in dire condition when recovered. There was alot more scientific/poetic license in the film but this one was the most dubious. Still it was an entertaining film, But should have left the slasher stuff out of it!
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Here is what my current "winter" setup looks like, I can't wait for the summer!
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Fitted them on Friday as we had two days of beautiful sunny weather and all the snow had melted. They have Yokoham AVS 100's on them which made it hell getting to work on monday after several inches of snow. Had to put the old beat up ones on again as they have General Exclaim UHP's on them that are M+S rated. Ive had mostly positive comments but would like to hear my fellow Supra owners opinions!
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Mine came with an HKS Suction system with that section of hard pipe. Id like to go back to stock, If I find that piece separately I'll be back for the box.
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does it include the pipe that the temp sensor plugs into?
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I replaced my J-spec discs with cryo treated d/g discs, pads with some high quality ceramic pads and did a full system flush, the difference is night and day in initial bite and stopping power, Like Homer said Big brakes really won't stop you in that much a shorter distance maybe a few feet less from 60, They allow for repeated hard braking without fading, and are over kill on a non track car,(perfectly acceptable as visual upgrade though) on the other hand if you do repeated panic stops on the street without enough time for the brakes to return to operating temp, you should probably turn in your license before you hurt someone
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Which headlight bulbs for JSpec and UK Spec?
GMan replied to Pete's topic in Technical Reference & FAQs
They are H3, I just ordered some blue ones to match my HID's, does anyone know what the size of the small driving,parking lights are?, I'd like those in blue as well. -
Hmm Now that I think of it my first car was the newest! 2000 Nissan Frontier Pickup truck (sold) 1984 BMW 732 (wrecked) 1990 Opel Corsa (wrecked) 1984 BMW 318i (sold) 1993 Nissan Skyline R33gtst (Still own) 1988 VW Golf 2 (sold) 1993 Nissan Skyline R33gtst (sold) 1984 VW Golf 1 Cabrio (Still Own) 1992 Nissan Skyline R32gtst (sold) 1993 Toyota Supra SZ (Still Own) 4 Nissans, 2 BMWs, 2 VWs, 1 Opel, 1 Toyota
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Well it's a good start at least, Thanks!
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Hey all I did some searching but the only thread i could find was from 2006! I'd like to find out what other members are in Germany and where so we can find out who is close to who for help, meets or things of that nature. Lets use this format Forum name - Real name - City Just copy and paste the whole list so the last post will always be a complete list. 1) Gman - Glenn - Heidelberg
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I bought some second hand German spec lights (Glass and LHD) for about 100 euro. The best thing is they have all the correct markings on them. I think that's a better solution than possibly messing up some nice facelifts which you can get alot of money for unmolested.
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I got new wheels for the Supra!!! Not here yet but they are in the post! My GF is awesome, I couldn't get her to spring for new tires though!
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iHey guys thanks for the replys, I am in Germany so I imagine transporting a windscreen from the UK to the mainland would be cost prohibitive. Unfortunately it turns out glass is not covered in my insurance policy, I didn't check it carefully when I signed the policy, I have now fixed this but it doesn't help with my case.
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Thanks Guys, I'll do some shopping around with this in mind
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Recently a crack has appeared from the top left side of my windscreen, no stone chip or anything, just started from one edge. Anyways I think it should not be horribly expensive to replace right, my Nissan truck set me back $250USD a few years ago for a replacement, The Local glass guy couldn't give me an exact quote but said at la minimum 750EURO but probably more! This really seems to be taking the proverbial piss. This is one of those rare moments when something is cheaper in the UK than on the continent, what do you guys think
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Thanks Chris, but just to be absolutely clear, I had zero issues on the 600 mile drive home, my only Annoyance was that the speedo stopped working after 15minutes, So i had to gusstimate my speed the whole way back, Turned out it was just a faulty speed converter chip, fortunately it was installed with cannon plugs which made it a snap to remove (I wanted it to read in km's here on the continent anyways) I have not regretted buying it for a single second and plan on keeping it when i buy a TT
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PM Keron he sorted me a front when i needed it
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I'm in Germany and bought mine here on the forum, Flew to the UK Paid cash and drove home. Will probably buy another one next year. You will notice that when someone is willing to fly there to get the car and pay with cash they are probably not going to try to haggle with you on the price, but please be kind and do a full service and check on the car before they come pick it up as they will have a very long drive home.
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This will be a long post but I wanted to give you some real world insight into my first year of supra ownership I bought my NA from this forum to be my daily driver as I own a Skyline as a weekend & track toy, and other than having to replace the front brake calipers on my first service after driving her back to Germany (due to the bleed nipples being tightened to the point of splitting the caliper body!) It has been faultless, I get about 500kms per tank of petrol even when I am not friendly to it on my weekend trips to Frankfurt. My costs for service and reparis for my fist year of ownership? 3 oil changes+ filters $150 US dollars (working for the US Military I get stuff from the US CHEAP!) I never take the word of a previous owner when I buy a car, but it turned out the previous owner a club member had done all of the fluids so all of the below was not necessary but was for my peace of mind Brake fluid flush $10usd for the fluid $18 for three hours of lift time (I did everything at once) Automatic transmission filter,fluid and gasket change $50usd all in Differential fluid change $14usd Coolant flush $10usd Finally $550usd for a fresh set of tires as the ones the car came with were done so $800 USD (about 600 GBP) for a full years worth of running costs is not bad at all if you can do some of the work yourself The ONLY off the road maintainance issue was the broken brake calipers which happened at the shop as I was upgrading my discs and pads and was not the Supra's fault so not really a brake down) Two front Brake calipers 75gbp each from Keron on here A pair of used gas struts for the rear hatch 30 GBP from Keron(I use the boot alot so it was annoying to have to hold it all the time but hardly a reliability issue) Lastly I have a rear shock absorber that's leaking, I could have replaced it for 60USD or both backs for 120 But decided to go with some KYB adjustable shocks at each corner so I can fine tune the handling a bit Everything else I did (Headers, double decat, exhaust, platinum plugs, d/s brake rotors, ceramic pads,Injen Intake, Nology spark plug wires, new dizzy cap and rotor) Were purely for my almost obsessive compulsive inability as an engineer to leave good enough alone. In Germany I view the $80 I spent on a Greddy speed cut defender as a sheer necessity Performance A delimited lightly modded 160,000 km NA auto, the bottom of the Supra food chain like mine definitely can do 250kmh on the autobahn(GPS reading, my poor old J-Spec speedo can only read 180) I easily dispatch 80% of the cars out there on the streets BMWs- It takes a BMW 335 or greater to beat me anything with an NA 6(except of course an old shape M3) or less becomes a fading sight in my rear view mirror on a long autobahn pull the great thing about BMWs is that they tell you exactly what they have under the hood in nice bright big numbers on their boots (ex. 3xx 5xx and so on) and if it's =35 just ignore them as they try to goad you and give them the" I can't be bothered to waste the petrol on the likes of you look" and they will skulk away. AUDIs-almost nothing short of an S series can pull away from me, I just spanked a guy in a brand new 2.0T A5 from stoplight to stoplight and he was so gutted that he pulled in behind me at the next light to avoid looking at me. Again Audi is kind enough to announce the displacement of motor that resides under the bonnet in chrome numbers on the boot leave anything bigger than a 3.2 or any thing with an S to the TT guys, and anything with an RS to the big singles
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Hi and welcome to the club, I am also an American in Germany, I live in Heidelberg where are you at?
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Relocate the battery to the trunk, and fit adjustible ride hight suspension and lift the front end about 10mm this will chang the car dynamics incredibly, you will get some mild to moderate on throttle understeer(good IMHO as it makes the car more predictible),but depending on the stiffness of the springs you will also get some lift throttle oversteer(bad on long fast sweepers if you over cook it going in and have to lift or brake but great on gymkahanas and autocross) I have headers (1st decat)and a full tt exhaust(2nd decat) on my N/A (will post a link in a bit) and it worked wonders but was insanely loud, so I put the mid pipe with the second cat back in and elded a resonator into the catback part (still loud but more resonable) I will be putting in the second decat pipe with another resonator soon.
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to get rid of the first cat you have to change the header, the first cat is an integral part of it, as for the second cat any tt exhuast with a mid pope will work but it will be so loud that it will do your head in on long drives.
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I got 337 miles on 67 liters or about 19mpg (us gallons) Mixed driving with a heavy foot on the autobahn,
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Guys, I,ve just come back from a trip to the Nurburgring in my Supra, here is what i have to report all of these took place With three adults in the car! 1)my NA auto has no problem pulling away from new the civic Si, as well as every other fanboy in a chaved up civic regardless of type (including a type R) who pulled up behind me on the autobahn to have a go, 2)MK V Golf GTI guy was alone in the car and we were climbing a steep grade, he kept up until the auto went into 3rd and the got left behind very quickly seeing as that is a 200hp, 1300kg manual transmission car with lets say 80-100kgs of driver vs a 1460kg Automatic with at least 250kg of people(I am a bit heavier than I'd like at 95kg My friend is nearly identical in height and build but his GF is a tinly little thing who is actually comfortable in the back seat of the supra) 3) Audi A5, single driver who gunned it to overtake me, so I just hammered down, he hung with me a bit but then just got left behind, I am sure that the money I've spent on these simple (I believe Gaz6002 called it Imaginary performance upgrades) was well spent.