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Everything posted by GMan
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That looks awesome, Do you mind telling us where you took them and how much it cost, I'd rather have those than most aftermarket!
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Help please, What size and thread is the front brake banjo bolt?
GMan replied to GMan's topic in mkiv Technical
I am an engineer (engines) and though i have knowledge, unlike what most people think, it does not confer mechanical ability, If I were to post up a list of stuff I destroyed while working on my skyline, you wouldn't know weather to laugh or cry, so far on the supra I have only managed to destroy 2 brake calipers! -
Help please, What size and thread is the front brake banjo bolt?
GMan replied to GMan's topic in mkiv Technical
I have Confirmation from toyota it is M10 with a thread of 1.25 VVTEYE, I really appreciate your help and generosity but I will grab one tomorrow at the hardware store. If you ever need anything please don't hesitate to ask, and If you come down to the Nurburgring next year, the first pint is on me! -
Help please, What size and thread is the front brake banjo bolt?
GMan replied to GMan's topic in mkiv Technical
sounds like m10 actually which means the thread pitch is either 1 or 1.25 -
Help please, What size and thread is the front brake banjo bolt?
GMan replied to GMan's topic in mkiv Technical
Thank you, That is very kind of you, I'll pay pal you whatever you need for shipping(please send the copper washers too) I was going to pop down to toyota and check in the morning as they can't be too dear I imagine. -
Help please, What size and thread is the front brake banjo bolt?
GMan replied to GMan's topic in mkiv Technical
Thanks mate but I am in Germany, I really appreciate the offer though! Any way you could measure it? -
OWN! Bought mine on here actually!
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@Homer First post edited to reflect your concerns, Please delete posts 2,3,4,5,7,8,9,13,15......etc, Hell delete just about everything not posted by me, Benkei or Scooter, Oh and change the title, I cant do it and its missing the p in completed, I've been trying to make up something technical sounding as a definition for "comleted" but can only come up with "the p on my netbook sticks so it doesn't always work Edit: Lbm here. I've changed the title for you by adding the missing "p" As for trimming your thread, I'll let Homer to look at this
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I'll try to get a picture for you this weekend, I have a set of powerslot cryo treated drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads (Street not race) in the boot waiting to go on this weekend, I have already put on a set of General Exclaim UHP W rated tires. I have been using the same discs and tires on the Skyline (full race pads though) for three years with no problems whatsoever. I agree 100% that tires and a good disc and pad combo are the first mods anybody should make. The brakes just took longer in the post than everything else:p
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In the End I've spent about 800 us dollars, maybe 600 pounds, The car looks much better feels much better and much more responsive, It sounds mean, too mean actually. the great thing is that the obx system comes with an adjustable insert, which actually really works well at low load, this morning I set off my neighbors car alarm in the underground garage and felt terrible, coming home tonight I put the baffle in before leaving the pub where I met some friends for the weekly pub quiz (Just to fend off any drinking and driving remarks, I had 1 kilkenny at 7pm, then A steak dinner a milk shake and 2 cokes before leaving at 11:30pm which with my weight of 90kgs would make my blood alcohol level = feck all!) as i drove home, the noise was about the same level as my skyline, when I'm puttering about at night trying not to wake anyone. Honestly I think it was all money well spent, The only thing I don't like is the mid range (2.5-4k rpm) sound, It's too loud and a bit raspy so I feel like a knob when the entire street turns and looks when leave a stoplight at more than about 25% throttle. I plan on replacing the mid pipe with the stock mid pipe and second cat this weekend. the oval shape of the pipe and the cat should make a serious dent in the Db levels but cost me some flow, I'll be chopping up the new midpipe to install a high flow cat and a resonator (maybe 2) to keep it legal and quiet without affecting the flow much.
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Here are some pics of the exhaust system installed, the pipe sicks out a bit from the bumper which is good, I always think it looks bad to see a nice car's rear bumper covered in soot due to a too short tip, It has a nice OBX-R etching on it that looks good and lets people who know a bit about exhausts, know I'm running a bargain exhaust system:) ground clearance was only slightly affected
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Here is a side by side shot of an identical header next to stock, people on http://www.supraforums.com have shown +14whp with the header alone, Looking at the stock one from a flow and pulse timing perspective I don't doubt it at all
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OK Got some pics of the car with my phone today First the Injen/HKS hybrid intake Here is a look at the headers, I like the look of them I took a close up of the steering Shft clearance mod here You can see how tight it is even after putting the dent in it. Today on a sharp left turn while gunning it i felt it come into contact slightly, I felt the vibration through the steering wheel. I did it again in a large empty parking lot to see if it would bind the steering ut it doesn't no matter how hard I tried, under WOT with full left lock, basically a doughnut, the vibration was more intense, but i was able to easily turn the steering wheel back to the right, so I leave it alone until I have some other reason to pull the headers and ad another mm or 2 to the Dent, curiously It never touches in a right turn, maybe the 16yr old motor mounts just need replacing.
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If you use a high quality rotor like powerslot, ebc, or dba, drilled and slotted rotors are fine for a street car and liven up the looks without compromising braking or safety at all, I use Power slot cryo treated d/s rotors on the skyline with axxis ultimate ceramic pads, 3 years now 30 odd laps of the ring a few laps on the Hockenheim ring where I got the brakes so hot the front left Kevlar pad caught fire,(hence the change to AXXIS) and not a crack to be seen. I did have a small fender bender last winter due to a BMW cutting me off, since all 4 tires locked, I don't blame the discs
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Bit harsh Eh? I doubt changing from plain to grooved discs will result in massive brake failure and death on a road car:
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Never taken the supra to the ring, It's always been the skyline, So this will be the first, I did a bridge to gantry of 8:21 ?J?uly 2005, but had a small wreck the next lap and have never pushed that hard again, I hold no aspirations of being a pro , I enjoy showing up the all the gear with no idea types in the porches and ferraris but I'm sure alot of you on here are much better drivers
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The whole second page seems to be about "no useful gains" "get a tt" "tt's are reliable" "dyno sheets to prove gains" etc.. No one seems to understand that I specifically looked for a non turbo automatic supra, or that I want it to remain a non turbo automatic supra, that it is within my means to buy a tt 6 speed and get xxx amount of hp but I don't want to, yet.
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Oh can the mods delete any posts on this thread that are about the beat to death turbo vs na thing, Possibly edit the title to "If you own a turbo supra don't even look at this thread"
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Oh? I've read about quite a few turbo failures on this forum
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Guys, as I stated in my first post, i am not really interested in peak numbers, high hp, or anything like that, I have a car for that already, I am looking for a few ways to make my daily driver look and sound a bit better, and add a bit of acceleration. In 2005 I saw a Lexus is300 dyno at 223 hp at the wheels with basically bolt ons through an auto tranny, At that point I was a full turbo snob and didn't care about "that pitiful NA" and my exact words were to the effect of "NA is like having infinite turbo lag, you should stop wasting money on that crap and go turbo" The guy who was about 5 or 6 years older than me took it in stride and said "I've been down that road, Now I just want something fun to drive that I don't have to worry about every time I put my foot down, or spends more time in the garage than on the road." I just shrugged and waited to get my Skyline on the Dyno, (332 WHP at the time) Here I am almost 5 years later Engine #3 on the skyline (1st was a wrecked head, just bought another full engine, 2nd burnt 2 pistons, so rebuilt it with full forged internals) Turbo #5 Every 4-6 months something seems to go wrong requiring the car go off the road while I wait for a new part (Thermostat at the moment) Usually right before a big meet or track day! Now I'm thinking "I just want something fun to drive that I don't have to worry about every time I put my foot down, or spends more time in the garage than on the road." =NA BPU for me I'm trying to find that guy and apologize for being such an arrogant prick, Plus I want to know what else he did to get that BHP
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Finally, the last thing i did was adjust the timing, here in Germany I run my cars on 98 ron (100 is available but I get 98 for $0.70 US dollars a liter on base so i can live with it) the non turbo supra with a 10 to 1 compression ratio runs a base timing of 10 deg BTDC looking at some of the past data collected by a friend of mine who does work on some older bmw inline 6's he said the switch from 87 ron the non turbo can run on to 98 could theoretically lead to a +10deg advance at the point of max timing gain safely. I added approximately 2.5 dec of static base timing before the idle started to speed up. The difference was noticeable, engine response improved dramatically. Power was up enough for me to tell. He suggested I add 4 more degrees but I'll save that for a dyno day with some det-cans handy. If anyone has access to the timing curve of a 2jzge with distributor, you will be my personal hero, It will look like this Base 10 deg Full mechanical advance ?? deg @ ???? rpm Electrical/Vacuum or whatever advance ?? deg from ????rpm to ????rpm
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Well you won't be getting a before sheet anytime soon unless i can find someone with a totally stock na auto to head up with me that day and hope the car to car difference is not too extreme because there is NO WAY I am pulling all of this off! My hands look like I've been to a bare knuckle brawl and I have 2 nice burns where my wrench slipped of the bolt while i was adjusting timing and my hand and forearm hit the header. All I can give is an impartial account via the unreliable but dyno, the supra won't be scaring my skyline but it is definitively more fun to drive,
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OMG is it loud, it puts my skyline to shame, I am actually considering, putting the midpipe with the second cat back in. It has a nice deep idle but anything more than light throttle really opens up the pipes. As far as power goes, it feels like it lost some torque at low throttle positions, but it really shines at WOT, the acceleration is noticeably improved, Stock it would struggle past 160 kph (100mph), It hit 180k and was well in the black (mine is a delimited j spec with the speedometer still reading in kph) and still pulling hard when i had to let off for traffic. I will be heading to Frankfurt on Friday for my usual weekend commute and there is a nice stretch of unlimited autobahn on the way. so far i have never been able to exceed 224 kph(reading fro my GPS) from start to finish of the 4 km section i measured fo top speed testing of my skyline, wew will se what the supra can do then