teddan

gahaaaa wrong by me!.....1132 at the hubs:) was the info from jamie P. I corrected it in the first post Thanks for the input Luxluc!

I think I will go what Jamie used if no ides pop's up

I am planning to take my engine to the next stage and let the turbo do some work. I am running JamieP old turbo a Precision GT42-7675R. When he was running it, he made around 1100 at the hubs I will be running the Cp pistons and they should be fine I think. 1. I talked to trevor at real street and he recommend Manley Turbo Tuff I-Beam Rods with ARP625+ and his advice was not to use a H beam at all. 2. As I am for the moment running BC sportman rods with the ARP2000 I also asked Dustin at BC for advice. But for 1300rwhp he suggest not tu use a steel rod at all.(even though the BC625+ are spec up to 300hp per rod(1800hp on the crank for all 6) 3. Jamie P used a Brian Crower Pro Series Rods. So that are proven! I will run on e85(ethanol) Which rods should I use?

Thanks for the input, I will check the cooler. I am running both temp and pressure gauge direct on the filter support and there has been no problem so far. Please explain more

BC 280 cams. Then need the head to be grinded and also to be adjusted according to the camcard as in this 4min in this video [video=youtube;_MsqA-C3vGI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MsqA-C3vGI

So to fix the gearbox we welded the ear and that should be ok for the moment. So after a couple of weeks I had a new time for tuning/brake in the engine. I friend help me this time with load the car. And my friend are also owner of the transport "car". This time the gearbox ear made it and I also change the front tires to some spare tires that I bored to not damage my rims any more. At the tuner. As this is my first engine built it was a little bit scaring! The engine was brake in and 2 things that need to be adjust is the cams. As I am running 280 cams the should not be in the same positions as stock cams.We fix this to 90% directly but it need to be checked again! Alsomy trottle are not good. It will not always close perfect. It turns some times my idle very high. There where also leakage around it when we pressure tested it. Okey, here I learned a lot but as is was also the first time it is like it is. Pressure test your system and checked it carefully after leakage before you go to the tuner.

Time for tune the engine! When we started to load the car for the travelling to the tuner(approx 2hours of driving) the car was just to wide! Just when i fired up the engine to help get the car in the right position, I heard a snap and the car started to leak oil heavily. The gearbox ear has give up and there was a small hole directly into the gearbox where oil was leaking out.

I bought a vent kit with the covers but it doesent fit good at all. It is hitting the charger and this is the small turbo! I think I will solve it with weld new female fittings instead.. For the moment the fuel installation look like this and it is from the previous owner. Seems nice but it SMELLS gasoline inside the car. No leakage so the hoses vent some fumes.. This need to be changed and moved outside the car. Anyhow I just put the injectors size in my maxx ECU and then I started directly! Bad movie from the start! [video=youtube;C5Xz-nYrLjw] After some smaller fix it looked like this( note the small garage! everything takes 2 times longer inside here then i should do!)

Long time since the last update! Some one purchased a boat this summer Anyhow, Back to fit the small t78 charger! [/url] Mounting the oilcooler kit The only place that was free was here.. it is really easy to change filter! As a lot of my connectors was in a bad shape and could not been bought at toyota I bought a old setup from Dude. My AEM also had to leave for the plug and play Maxx ECU. Sold to a france member here:) To have a better fuel pump control I installed a PWM modul. This let me to pulse the power to the fuel pumps So I can choose how much in % of the fuel pump capacity I want to run.

OK, I will change then

Willl the same problem occur when I swith to e85(ethanol)?

From the look they seems to be a nice brand.

I have a wilson manifold with throttle but when we did a leakage test the throttle was leaking a lot from the shaft. Are wilson good or bad brand? My tuner want me to change.

Exackly, but this ear should not be handle a lot of force from my opinion, it is just to stabilise the box in the rear and take vibrations?

but I do The ear will be properly stronger after welding then before with right weld preparation. If this is weld able materiel for this box? But if a broken box(internals)appears I will buy it as well

why? is very common that you weld the entire gearbox.. if you need a bmw gearbox on a volvo engine for exampel

exackly, no hard pulling with slick on a racetrack or something...we where going to tune the ecu tomorrow

Today I had my first breakdown. When we where loading the car on the transport truck, suddenly is there was a strange sound when the ear from the gearbox snapped. Does any one have any ideas have some ideas why it happen? It is possible to weld it back?

There are double information..... some say it vent and some say it does not vent..

I have read a lot of threads here and some of them state that you need to vent it and instead of blank it. But if it really works to block it I will do that, it is a lot easier and no fumes When I searched i had the same result as this. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?253569-Hose-from-fuel-tank-to-charcoal-canister-on-NA-to-1JZ-swap I will block my pipe direct at the tank then

I dont like passengers thats smoke

Okay, I have 3 options where to place the venting hose from the tank. I have place the rollover valve directly on the top of the tank on the pipe that should be vent. 1. Just under the passenger seat. 2. Top of the tank. (just have a small hose after the rollover valve) 3. Straight under the tank. What would be the most safe place?

I have removed my coal canister and I also bought one of these rolling over valves from volvo http://texasbulkstuff.com/images/fueltank_rollover-jeep175.jpg. No need for fancy valves when they are hidden;) But I don find any good place to hide it and I dont want to have the open hose that can have fumes behind the back wheels in case of I want to burn a couple of tires:eyebrows: I will connect the pipe that was going from the coal canister to the tank to this valve instead and then just vent it. Does any one have any suggestions where I can place it or where I can have the vent hose safe?

I will smell it if the car are in the garage. But if i let the doors open for a couple of minutes then the smell are gone. If the car are place Outside there are no smell

Haha great answer!!!