Rinus

I see many people go for the 800cc's, I will be probably too... But like to know about these little differences...

What is best for GT4082 setup with stock rail and walbro? 63507 (6 X 850cc) TOYOTA SUPRA (JZA80 2JZ-GTE, JZA70 1JZ-GTE) SOARER (JZZ30 1JZ-GTE 96.8-) MARK II (JZX81/90 1JZ-GTE) 850cc - Side, High Impedance, 1 Hole, Red Brown (Pic 22) Time 0.85 msec (Collars Needed Part No 63525) 63564 (6 X 800cc) TOYOTA SUPRA (JZA80 2JZ-GTE, JZA70 1JZ-GTE) SOARER (JZZ30 1JZ-GTE 96.8-) MARK II (JZX81/90 1JZ-GTE) 800cc - Side, High Impedance, 2 Hole, Brown (Pic 17) Time 1.6 msec For the 850cc's I need collars? Don't think I need them on the 800cc... And the lag time is 0,85 vs 1,6 msec, is lag time important? And 1hole vs 2hole injector, also important? Will run it with vipec88 standalone ecu, anyone experience with this?

Check the text at the end... Don't know how long this will be ok btw

A friend of mine got it connected at the back of the intake manifold, next to the idle control valve...

Sorry to interrupt, but isn't it possible to wire both fans into one, and connect them to the little fan wiring... I changed the temp sensor for a avensis one, same plug but 90-85 degrees, instead of 98-93... This is what i've done to my car and will start it up one of these days... I'm totally not an electrician, do I need to put in stronger fuse?

Castrol transmax Z in my box...

it's just for info, got a rps clutch... But for 500hp supras this might be a good/cheap option?

Anyone fitted ever a 6puck unsprung disk on a stock pressure-plate, and how much tork will this hold? Will be very nice for bpu and also very nice engagement I think...

RPS works also on my bpu suup perfect.. Only for pre-facelift supras, better 6speed facelift slave cilinder, its a smaller bore cilinder so better engagement...

I work at a carparts store and tried re-numbering the oem number of the jspec tt (89465-14170) but didin't get anywhere... When searching on car type, I could only get one number , but this is EURO-spec supra! lambda>>> 0258986617 (universal bosch in front of cat) Anyone an idea if this will work on a jspec??

oxygen sensor wich comes out of my jspec 1994 tt; 89465-14170 ND 065500-7681

It worked best with boostcontroller, because on hot days boost dropped to 1,1bar with the 1,2 ring, and with controller you can get it back to 1,2 bar..

Looks like your wastegate doesn't open full, maybe a vacuum hose on the actuator? I had a 1,2 bar R-Ring (51mm//2inch) wich worked very nice, best with boostcontroller...

Have seen there are weld on flanges (with 2 bolts) to fit the oem lambda-sensor... But my downpipe has only a "screw"type flange (only screw-thread), like to use a lambdasensor witch I can screw in (don't no the right word sorry) Just got the downpipe heat wrapped so really don't like to weld a 2 bolt flange on... Can get bosch or Ngk screw type lambdas (4wires), anyone has experience with non-oem type lambdas? I can get an adaptor to get from; 2bolt flange to screw-type... An adaptor the other way isn't there, I guess??

Uhmm then I've made a stupid mistake, I didn't knew there where 6speed NA's... The car I took the cilinder offwas a 5speed NA,where they later have mounted a 6speed, so I thought they have kept the slave cilinder of the 5speed... Just read this thread again and I saw Chris already mentioned there's a 6speed na I first bought the bigger repair kit (red one) and when I wanted to mount it I saw it was smaller-bore, than the cilinder that came off my 6speed (its from 1994...), so had to buy the smaller kit... Really sorry for getting wrong info here!!, so smaller bore cilinder is from a facelift 6speed... But it does engages much better, so I think 6speed ,facelift, drivers will have less problems with engagement of the clutch (like rps streetmax) or other aftermarket uprated singleplate clutches. .....

I would take bronze if it's 18" or 19",, 17" white would be better...

I appreciate that you give your opinion, than afterwards comment when I blew up the car... I will compare my oil drain with de stock one and then make a decision... I'm not affraid of melting, have seen a frien of mine with tubular manifold, with on the compr-outlet a 90degrees plastic pipe only 1/2 inch from the manifold and no burning or melting [sHOCK][/sHOCK] The watertemp.sensor for the ecu (the bigger one in the elbow), what doe the ecu with these data?

Ok, I hope it will hold around the wastegate, I think its no option to weld a stainless steel wastegate flange, to the cast-manifold? But its a good idea for a ring groove drilled if it blows... @ chris its journal-bearing, so a bit more oil will get trough the oil drain... The material of the oildrain is an hydraulic-hose 300bar, outside is sort of plastic, but inside its steel... So if it melts I will first smell it... Thinking of some sort of heatwrap/tape around it, I will measure the smallest hole of the oil drain, I think it should be big enough or is there a minimum size for an oil drain, for journal-turbos?

And getting the screamer pipe back in exhaust; My first time wrapping ever, so be gentle... Will get the T-rips offff:Pling: Oil drain, with custom made flanges; Blockoff waterfeed, pipe has been pearled (no its not a new one ); Has anyone an idea what the big sensor is for? Does it acctivate the little airco fan when its getting too hot? Cause I thougt myself the sensor at the bottom of the radiator does that... The little one is for the stock temp gauge I think? 2 spal fans, thats why I like to know about the sensors:); I bought one sensor 87-82 degrees, dont know best place to fit... Right know I'm waiting for the vband flange from garrett, for the outlet of the compressor (to fmic piping) This is smaller than 3inch and bigger than 2,5inch , 7,39cm cross-cut... Cause of the vulcano problems I'm waiting 6weeks already If you guys have any comments, good or bad, will appreciate that... Cheers Rinus

He good people Like to share some pictures of my setup... Started with; Cast-manifold (turbonetics) Garrett Gt4082jb Mines wastegate 35mm Aem intake Xs-downpipe At first drill out the wastegate of the manifold, it was a bit small, 32mm; Now it matches the mines wastegate 35mm; Modify the downpipe, first cutting 3cm off the beginning of the downpipe, where pipe connects to turbine; After that cut out 5cm in the middle of the pipe; And 10cm at the end of the pipe; Ready to weld; Testfitting;

Interesting cause my car is from 1994, so will have to check this.. Anyone got oem-number for me? So I can check what our local toyota dealer will charge..

Scandinavia?? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=194804

Maybe some good info here?? Across the broad array of message boards we see a large amount of misinformation. Sadly this bad info can lead somebody into purchasing the wrong part. One common bit of internet hearsay is "The bigger the turbo the bigger the wastegate!" So is this fact or myth? This write-up may influence your next wastegate purchase. Generally speaking running lower boost levels, requires a larger wastegate. The theory is more exhaust gas needs to diverted (wasted) away from the turbine wheel during low boost conditions. While running high boost levels, a majority of the exhaust needs to be directed into the turbine wheel to spool the turbocharger. Example A: A GT42R turbocharger on a 1.6L engine would require a smaller wastegate because a majority of the exhaust flow from the engine would be required to spool the turbine wheel. Example B: A GT25R on a 3.0L engine attempting to run low boost pressure would require a large wastegate because a majority of the exhaust flow needs to be diverted away from the turbine wheel to keep the turbo from boost creep or over boosting. check; http://www.fftec.com/WastegateSizing.html

In Holland a new LUK flywheel is +/-320 euro, but you've got to hand in the old one for that price, otherwhise +75euro...

dualmass flywheel... Is not damping the vibration of the engine anymore, this makes a rattling sound in the gearbox..