Keefred

Is one of the wires that goes into the door lock solenoid in the drivers door the same colour ? Look at the solenoid and see. If it is thats one step further forward as you will know for sure that the wire thats split into 3 in your last picture does actually control the door lock. The only way you are going to know for sure is to actually look at the door motor and see what colour the wire is, something which I am not sure you have done yet ? If it is I would then trace this wire back from the door lock motor all the way to where it plugs into the drivers footwell, just in case where the plug with the melted wire in has different colours coming out of the back of it than goes into it, Id like to think that one of those 3 wires is the same colour from where you are holding it all the way to the door lock but you never know. The fact that its one wire split into 3 would make me also check what colour the one in the passenger door that goes to the solenoid is as well. I am thinking perhaps that the central locking, which as far as I know only works from the drivers door might have an extra wire on the drivers door lock, possibly the same colour as one of the ones that splits into 3, so that when you lock the drivers door with the key a contact is made from that to the control unit to some sort of change over relay which then sends a current or earths it for a second down the other 2 wires to lock the doors.

So he didn't do anything with the burnt wire ? They don't just melt for no reason, if you are still driving it like that and hes run a new wire to trigger the door lock and not spent any time trying to see why the other ones melted in the first place I would be a bit worried that the car would catch fire If hes saying he thinks the problem is in the door the first thing I would do, as I suggested before, is take the trim off, find the solenoid and see if one of the wires from that is the same colour as the one that's melted, looks to me that one of the wires on the contol box looks the same colour as the one thats melted as well. If it is I would then trace this wire back from where its to where it goes into the door by unplugging the drivers door loom from where it plugs in near to where the wire is melted I would think, if that picture on here is in the drivers footwell, get the boot off where it goes between the door and the pillar and have a look for a broken or shorted wire in there or anywhere else in the door.

I didnt mean the speaker wires were broken and thats whats causing the problem, more that in the boot that takes all the cables from the door into the pillar might have a broken / shorted wire in. If you take the door card off and look at the locking solenoid and see if one of the wires from that is the same colour as the one that is melted it might be shorting out somewhere, possibly in that rubber boot. If the picture you have on here showing the melted wire is in the drivers footwell I'd think you will find that the door wiring probably plugs into that somewhere, to take the door off you would have to unplug the harness in the footwell and pull all the wires through the pillar, so if the door solenoid wire is the same colour as the melted one thats the first place i'd look

A further thought on this, I assume each time you swap the boxes over you are opening and shutting the door before trying the locking system ? If so, just a thought, maybe the loom where it goes from the door into the pillar has a broken / shorted wire ? I had a celica once and when I used to open and shut the drivers door the central locking would click on and off as I opened and shut the door, also the pop up headlights used to go up and down on thier own, I know its in a big rubber boot to protect the cables but you never know, specially if you have upgraded speakers where someone has stuffed bigger speaker cables through the boot either using a bit of mig welding wire or something to push through first to pull the speaker wires through and caught another cable with the sharp end.

Wiring diagram here, looks very complicated though http://www.internetwork.org.uk/manual/system/system.htm

Like Dnk I had my first moped in 78/79 and I think I used to pay 50p for half a gallon and a 'shot' of 2 stroke oil out of that pump thing that all forecourts used to have with the different ratio settings on the top, they used to have a man who put the petrol in for you as well in the old days ! The prices in south London went up to around £1.27 a litre on new years day then dropped back down to £1.22 again, since then they have gone up again an then back down to £1.24 I think but it does seem to vary massively round this way. What I don't understand is how when it was getting to £1.15 ish I am sure it was all over the papers everyday and there were going to be strikes and blockades and all sorts, now its nigh on £1.30 there is not a word anywhere.

I didn't think you wanted it ? He who dares Rodney.

I will have that for £30 if you still have it ?

I would say not, though its a bit vague, are projector beam style headlights, which originaly take halogen lamps ok because the look like projector beams on new cars which do have hids ? Then it says not permitted in th Uk but they cannot refuse to register a European car In the Department's view it is not legal to sell or use after market HID lighting kits, for converting conventional Halogen headlamps to HID Xenon. If a customer wants to convert his vehicle to Xenon HID he must purchase completely new Xenon HID headlamps. The reason for this is that the existing lens and reflector are designed around a Halogen filament bulb, working to very precise tolerances. If one places a HID "burner" (bulb) in the headlamp, the beam pattern will not be correct, there will be glare in some places and not enough light in other places within the beam pattern. The following is the legal rationale: The Road Vehicle Lighting Regulations 1989 regulate the situation in the UK. Under these Regulations, HID/Gas Discharge/Xenon headlamps are not mentioned and therefore they are not permitted according to the strict letter of the law. However new vehicles have HID headlamps. This is because they comply to European type approval Regulations. The UK cannot refuse to register a vehicle with a European type approval. These are to ECE Regulation 98 (for the HID headlamps which are tested on a rig in a laboratory) and ECE Regulation 48 (Lighting Installation on the vehicle). For the after market, a used vehicle cannot obtain type approval because it is only applicable for new vehicles. However we feel that saying "HID is banned in the after market" would not be reasonable. Instead we should make analogies with new vehicles. It would be reasonable to require HID in the after market to meet the same safety standards as on new vehicles. The same level of safety should apply. Therefore a HID headlamp unit sold in the after market should: 1. be type approved to ECE Regulation 98 as a component. 2. when fitted to the vehicle should enable ECE Regulation 48 to be complied with (although no government inspection will take place). 3. Comply with RVLR as far as "use" is concerned. In practice this means: 1. The headlamp unit (outer lens, reflector, bulb) shall be type approved to ECE 98 and be "e-marked" to demonstrate this. That can only be done by the headlamp supplier - Hella, Valeo etc. who must test the headlamp in an independent laboratory. 2. Once fitted to the vehicle it must have headlamp cleaning and self-levelling (which can be for the headlamp or can be in the vehicle suspension - some expensive estate cars have "self-levelling suspension" and that is adequate). Also the dipped beam must stay on with the main beam. 3. The headlamp must be maintained in good working order, kept clean, and aligned/adjusted correctly like any other headlamp. Under the Road Traffic Act 1988 it is an offence to supply, fit or use vehicle parts which are not legal. In summary it is not permitted to convert an existing halogen headlamp unit for use with HID bulbs. The entire headlamp unit must be replaced with one designed and approved for use with HID bulbs and it must be installed in accordance with the rules stated above.

I am happy with the perfomance, such as it is, and the gearbox is superb, it just doesn't seem to live up to the way it looks with the way it drives, I certainly wouldn't try and drive it like a 'sports car' It has 18s on it with 35 profiles I think, tyres are quite new and I usually put 34 psi all round. I reckon the suspension is original, it just seems loose, noisy, rattly, just not tight like all the other Toyotas I have had. I am kind of looking for an easy solution, if it's the springs and shocks I am prepared to replace them but I don't want to just keep throwing money at it. I was hoping someone else could drive it and offer a solution from experience. It kind of drives like it has been lowered with harder springs, but doesn't handle like it. It having a service and mot soon, I'll have to get the bloke to have a good look and check the subframe bolts first I think. I have been round your house Raven, I bought a boot blind from you last year. You had to come and find me because your postcode on multimap takes you somewhere else !

You can have a go in mine, Kent area. I think mine drives crap and want to compare it with someone elses, more interested in the way it drives rather than the perfomance so prefer N/A, auto or manual. Had Toyotas for years and some have looked like they have been pulled out of a breakers yard but they have always driven pukka but my Supra seems to be a bit of a donkey, drive wise. I want to compare so I can decide wether to spend the money on it to get it right or sell it and buy another one.

You might try something called K seal, may be a short term fix, might not, but if I had the same problem as yours I would try this stuff first. I had a 325 Bmw on which the head gasket had gone and was putting in about 3 - 4 litres of water a week. I have always thought bars leak and stuff like that was a waste of time and after searching the interweb found the K seal stuff, read all the rave reviews and thought they might be somewhat over exagerated but thought I would try it before a rather expensive bill for a new head gasket so I bought it from e bay for less that a tenner I think and from the day I put it in it never lost another drop of water.

After another 2 hour search I found a 2009 Denso book, according to that the only 2 listed are. 89465-19605 = Dox-0228 89465-19595 = Dox-0227 The Dox-0110 seems to be a universal one as it says it fits a supra (nato) 3.0 and Carina e, celica, Rav 4 etc

The first and the last link are both for part number Dox-0110, I have just spent an hour looking for denso - toyota part number conversions etc and cannot find the part number for the N/a sensor 89465-19615 listed on any of them as a Dox number or a 247- number or whatever. There is a site http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk that lists the first and last at £30 each and the 2 in the middle at £48 each, much cheaper than the e bay ones, wether they are real Denso items its hard to tell. I think Toyota own Denso anyway so you would think this information would be much easier to find ?

I get fed up with mine sometimes, after having it for 17 months, by far the longest i've ever owned the same car, the constant clonking over every little bump, the very annoying resonance from the exhaust, the saggy tailgate struts, the speakers falling out the door cards ( MUST get around to putting those brackets in oneday ) the nightmare dealing with insurance companys etc, but, every now and then when I look out the window in the morning and see it sitting there still looking like a supercar which costs a load more than they cost to buy I think yes, thats a hell of a lot of car for the money, and when you see someone else in one they always seem to wave. I flipping love it

I renewed mine yesterday. The quote I got from Sky was £741, the quote I got from A Flux was £440. I appreciate that there are many variables when it comes to insurance, but being 48 with full ncd and no convictions etc it amazes me that Ray007 above who is 28 with 2 years ncd pays £10 less that they quoted me. I can only assume his is third party fire and theft where mine is fully comp as I also live in greater london ? Last year when I bought the car Sky quoted me £400 I think, an increase of £341 for moving from a ME postcode to an SE3 one it seems

Mine did this, an awful rattle on start up and while driving, mine sounded like the back box baffle had broken up or somethng so i took it out, it was fine but I had to grind the fixing bolt off to get it out, sounds awesome without the baffle but the main point of me looking at it was not to piss off the neighbours at 6.15 am every morning. I found the baffle was fine and put it back on sunday with a coating of silicon rtv. No more rattle since

If it is an n/a I think it is called an exhaust temperature sensor, I lost the tin shield off of mine over a bump and at first I was sure what I could see in exactly the same place as in your picture was the 'Lambada' ! sensor. Turns out there are 2 of them but they are both up on the manifold and the one at the bottom is a heat sensor

I would say that is quite cheap given your age. I just cannot seem to get reasonable insurance on anything, I am 47 with full no claims and seem to be paying twice what some people half my age are paying. I got a quote from Sky which was the same as the AA quoted me but as I had just renewed with the AA I thought it would be easest to stay with them, so I ended up paying £450 comp for an n/a at 47 living in a 'good' postcode. I wish I hadnt now as I found them to be total crap, they 'couldnt find the car' and when I said it had different wheels on it caused even more problems, I have just moved from a kent to a london se3 postcode and the fekkers want another £163 for it ! I wont be renewing with them ever again

Thank you very much. I have just had a copy of the fiche page faxed to me and it shows it as 89465. What does the second number 19625 mean ? and are there 1 of them or 2 ? I am sure I read on here the tt has one and the na has 2, but I cannot see a second one anywhere, not until the bottom of the exhaust downpipe which I think is 89425 which is shown as a 'sensor, exhaust gas temperature'

I have searched on here and can find lots of threads about 02 sensors but not the actual part numbers. I have a 94 n/a auto and dont want to go into Toyota only to be told they cannot do them as it is an import or they need the engine number.

Get a Razor wheel, or a '3m stripe off wheel' Looks like its made out of Caramac bar, even smells like a Caramac bar which is strange indded. My mate has a body shop and he hasn't used a hot air gun or a scraper to get a sticker off since he got these wheels, they really are the nuts, they take the sticker and the glue off and do not damage the paint underneath at all, you cannot use them on plastic bumpers though cos they melt the plastic

Just spent the last hour searching on here and on google, seems to be conflicting advice unless I don't understand the terminology ? Pretty sure fogs are adjusted by one nearest the wing, not botherd by those. One thread says, Inner = main and dip, left to right adjustment, white knob = up and down for both. Other says, bottom - clockwise = raise, middle clockwise = move to center of car. On the glass lights I take 'bottom' to be the white one as it is at the bottom and 'middle' to be the long adjuster that is not the one for the fogs ????? I am going to take it somewhere tomorrow to get it done, and if it turns out to be a Kwiksplit or similar I have to go to I don't want some 12 year old telling me he can't do it because its an import or making it even worse or snapping somethng off my nice new glass headlights

Put me new glass headlights in today, easy peasy lemon squeezy, bit of agg putting the bulbs back in as I think I had a combination of hb3 and hb4 so had to cut a bit off the back of one to make it fit in the bulb holder. It all got a bit confusing as it was starting to rain so was rushing a bit and I'm thinking I am sure the thread on here said about cutting a bit out of the wiring plug hole on the back of the bulb and looking at an old one I found I can see hb4 seems to have 2 slots where the hb3 has only one or the other way around so I'm thinking obviously that is the bit you have to cut off to make the wiring plug fit. Anyhoo, got them back in and will order some new bulbs anyway, looking at the chart on here about bulbs I can see I need some hb3 and hb4 to fit my new uk glass lights, one or both I assume I will have to file off the slots in the bottom to fit the wiring plug. What I really wanted to know is, on the new ones they have the motor and socket to plug them into the thing that is inside the car which makes the headlights move up and down to adjust if you are towing or whatever, on my import there is no wiring harness or adjuster on the dash to make this motor work, so when it comes to adjusting the headlight beams, which I thought wouldn't need doing as they would come from toyota set up allready which doesn't seem to be the case. On the back of each motor is a nylon nut which is obvously there to turn them up and down with a spanner, as well as the other long metal bolt for doing the main alignment, so is there any advantage to having the nylon nut wound fully one way or the other before you start ?

Yes, I think it was £305 inc carriage, which is a real bargain I reckon considering someone sold a set on e bay last week which were refurbed plastic ones that had the sidelight pods completely painted over for £255 ! Why would you even bother when you can get glass ones for £50 more ?