DaveR

Oh yeah, also, my opinions: having dinner at the second hotel makes perfect sense, as does squaring away the exclusive use of the first hotel’s garage provided access to it is on level ground (Suki can’t really do multi-storey car parks (which I realise this particular one is unlikely to be!) or steep ramps either and I’m sure others are in a similar situation with that). Have plenty of Shell garages been accounted for on each day’s routes? A 16mpg / ~220 miles-per-tank average requires such considerations...

1. ripped_fear 2. Attero 3. ShawnPreece 4. supraleeturbo 5. josesupra 6. mr2kyle 7. day881 8.Cam27 9. Spunkmeyer 10. Ian_Ian 11. CorruptSapphire 12. Soopra 13. Walkerstrider 14. Hitbox Junkie 15. TheTurtleshead 16. MRX 17. mikewoods 18. DaveR I’ve missed so much in recent years! I can never get to DragonBall because of work, but this sounds ideal (I’m even on leave!!). I’m in.

Awesome, thank you. I’ll take a drive over anyway, I reckon; Suki hasn’t had a run out in a while.

Dammit. First time logging on in, like, forever (I’m not dead, neither is Suki in case ANYONE was wondering! ), I saw something that would give me an excuse to clean my car and get out and about and I may have missed it... Any chance of a last-minute addition...? D4 RPR

How would it work swapping over the VRN for the car that's attending? Reading the website you will have had to give in that info to pre-book; can it be swapped easily enough? Also, regarding the 'freebies' that come with the tickets (t-shirt / Banzai mag), are they / have they been sent in advance or do you collect them at the venue on the day? (I am - possibly, pending confirmation of my own work commitments... - interested in buying these tickets from you, by the way, I'm not just being a pain! ).

Ah haa, a meet that's only half an hour away from my new house. It's been a while since I've been around these here (Forum) parts, so what better way to start?! Assuming I'm not working... 1. KamaSupra +1 2. GreaseMonkey 3. Ripped_fear (+1 if grace is free) 4. DaveR (+1 probably) 5.

Liking the attention to detail. Cool colour too.

Gotcha, makes sense. The sensor has always (for very nearly 3 yrs, since I went single) been in the same place on the sandwich plate, so I think I've got to assume it's correct seeing as the readings I have had for the previous incarnations of my engine were what would be expected. Good news about the main caps then! I replaced the electronic sensor myself fairly easily last week (access is improved slightly with my front-facing plenum believe it or not), so assuming fitting a mechanical sensor - temporary or otherwise - is a case of 'unscrew one, screw in the other' it shouldn't be too much of a problem. Uh, hopefully... Time to Google 'Sykes Pickavant'. Thanks for all the info, all, it's really appreciated.

Yeah, it's safe to say I'm more than fairly concerned about all of that... I've never seen oil pressure as high as this before the engine was stroked. Interesting. I'm basing this purely on the invoice, but I'm fairly certain that the engine hasn't been fitted with steel main caps. Titan don't list them as coming as part of the stroker kit and although main studs are listed on my invoice, main caps aren't. That raises another question, of course, in that should an engine that's supposed to be capable of silly-high power figures (turbo choice etc dependant) have steel main caps fitted really...? One problem at a time... Back to the issue at hand, my electronic sensor is - as it always has been thus far - fitted to a sandwich plate for the oil filter. To be honest, given that sandwich plates are provided specifically for the purpose of adding sensors to an oil system I'd never considered that to be a problem... If they're meant to be fitted to a flexi hose, where does that physically get plumbed in? Or is it that one end of the hose gets fitted into the sandwich plate and then the sensor into the other end of that, placed somewhere else? If an oil pressure test is a fairly common requirement I'll endeavour to get one done locally - understandably I'm not keen to drive my car very far or very much right now to try to limit the chance for any drastic problems occurring... Any recommendations on WHERE is best to get that done (in London) gladly accepted, though.

Gotcha. So is it high enough (on boost / at high RPM) to be cause for concern, or is it within acceptable parameters? I've been reading horror stories of 'popped off oil filters' and all sorts...

Ok, that sounds like good news! So 9-10bar is an acceptable high-RPM pressure? What would you say is TOO high, i.e. "if I see x bar, I should start to worry again..." I'll change the oil tomorrow morning and see if there's anything untoward in there. Fingers crossed...

I did wonder about the calibration, i. e. the ECU or the DASH2 is simply interpreting and / or displaying the information incorrectly. How would I go about fitting and getting a reading from a mechanical sensor? It seems now that at idle the pressure is much what it used to be, around 2bar. When I first turn on the engine from cold it's reading as around 7bar and then drops to ~2bar when everything's up to temperature. That said, that's only today after my first test since fitting a new sensor, so I reserve full judgement until I've done a more thorough assessment. Could using the correct viscosity oil (10w50) have any positive effect on this...? I'm not sure on the oil squirter situation. What are the effects of having them fitted compared to not?

I had this horrible feeling it might be the pressure release valve... I REALLY can't be doing with that to be honest. My idle is set to around 900rpm and currently there's 5w40 oil in there, although I intend to change that back to 10w50 (or at least I had intended to - my understanding is that the higher the grade of oil, the higher the pressure, which wouldn't really help matters right now...).

Sorry about the sudden lack of updates, all, but I'm having issues of an oil pressure related nature. Please have a look at this thread and help if you can!!: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?326446-Acceptable-oil-pressure

After having my newly stroked (3.4l) engine mapped last week, I discovered an issue with the oil pressure that has made my car all but undriveable. On boost, my oil pressure peaked at up to 9-odd bar but when pulling up at lights (for instance) it would sink so low (0.4bar-ish) that my Syvecs cut the engine. Before stroking the engine, I would see around 2 bar at idle and an absolute maximum of around 6bar when driving. Romain from 2BarTuning plugged his laptop back in to the ECU and diagnosed the problem as a faulty oil pressure sensor. I have now replaced the oil pressure sensor and I'm still experiencing very similar symptoms at the peak on boost (although I actually hit as high as 10bar today during my test drive), but seemingly without it dropping off entirely when coming to a complete stop. So... My question here is: what is an acceptable oil pressure range? My old oil pump was just that, old, so I'm prepared to believe that my oil pressure on a freshly stroked engine with a brand new pump could well be higher, but is 10bar really ok? Or does this point to an underlying mechanical fault?

Bit of both, I think. I'll see how it feels on the road (the most important thing after all) before I decide. Uh, sort of. I knew that the turbo wouldn't be able to get the absolute most from this engine but I didn't expect SUCH a dramatic disparity. The cams being as underwhelming as they are in this set up is a real shock though, from the point of view of it never having been discussed...

Still 264 cams with a Whitbitz FMIC. Boost is now 1.7bar with max torque at 4500rpm and max power at 7k rpm

Huh. Here's something we didn't anticipate. Romain has all but finished now; it turns out that the engine is now FAR too big (and capable) for the turbo, cams and probably FMIC as well. This means that essentially the car will probably make exactly the same power it used to because the turbo - which was obviously near its maximum capacity previously - simply can't flow the amount of air that the new engine can make use of.

It's been being worked on since the end of March!! This is definitely my favourite part though.

First progress update: All is running well. So far, after the initial AFR setup etc and just 2 runs, it's making 500bhp (with still only a 7200rpm Rev limit) on 1bar boost... I think we're going in the right direction!

Random rolling road pic:

Suki's just gone onto the rolling road now. Go time!

Yeah the car was mapped the first time on an AMS hub dyno, this time it's on a DynoDynamics rolling road so there's not exactly a DIRECT comparison. As you say though, it will be interesting. I'm prepared now for the turbo and FMIC to be the 'limiting' factor in the whole setup but to be honest, I'm not chasing peak figures or anything here, I just want a more responsive car with the torque curve pushed to the left. The setup before was plenty fast enough on the road so even a result of 'the same power but everything happening earlier' [in the rev range] would be awesome!

Exactly that, yeah - Titan 3.4l stroker block (balanced crank, con rods, pistons, etc) with a ported and polished stage 3 head and ARP bolts throughout. Otherwise, cams, fuel system, turbo, wastegates, plenum, FMIC are all as before. Romain (2BarTuning) is doing his thing now.

Soooooooo... I've been particularly bad at keeping my thread updated with each new, uh, update during my engine build (there are MANY reasons for this, which I won't bore you all with). However. Today should change all that. I collected my car for the last time from Whifbitz yesterday, having spent time over the last couple of weeks getting the new engine run-in and ensuring the last few elements of the build went according to my intent. AND... Today is mapping day! Let's see what happens. Watch this space.