James

(This may apply more to the TT/single guys as it will be more noticeable. Though NA owners are allowed to chime in to feel important too ) Anyway... I'm currently doing my Mechanical Engineering dissertation. My topic is torque converter design and modelling. An aspect which I am considering when designing a torque converter is ambient temperature. The way I'm integrating this is by stating that colder air = denser air = more oxygen = more fuel = more power/torque. The relevance of this is that more power/torque through the engine gets put to the impeller of the torque converter. This then transfers to the turbine side of the torque converter at a higher value than it would be at warmer temperatures, putting more power through the remainder of the transmission and thus putting more power to the ground, possibly breaking traction. With this higher value entering the torque converter from the crank (engine) side, the unit is more susceptible to being over-worked and - consequentially - damaged. In short, if you could please complete the poll and (if you have time) leave a short comment detailing your experience of colder temperatures on traction and power output (compared to hotter temperatures with no change to your car's spec). Thank you very much James *EDIT* of course the amount of temperature variation will affect the amount of output variation. Just a general consensus through experience is required!

Marc is running 265s with them I believe. Can't remember the aspect ratio though. https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/250160_215301145168461_100000657300793_678955_1095700_n.jpg

Looks like the tyres need some more air too Good work John, very nice of you to help out

Marc (AB10) runs 18x9.5 +24 up front and 18x11 +22 at the rear. Stock arches with a roll. Think the fronts may be pulled too.

I'm pretty sure that RZ95 is KDW.

Lip is the urethane one supplied by MVP: http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates/frmTemplateM7.asp?SubFolderID=2286&SearchYN=N Second one down. That Supra (the original picture, white with silver CCWs) is pretty much perfect. Ideal stance.

I hope that - if you get the single build finished before you put get the money together for a v160/161 - you have a low boost setting to stay below 450 lbft and bhp

Bell at first. Budget now. That was £750 with 5 years driving, 1 NCB, claim at fault and CD30.

I was £950 on a 94 J-Spec TT at 21 with 3 years driving and 3 years NCB. That was DEFINITELY a J-Spec TT as I had numerous phone calls to clarify so that it wasn't a UK. I'm being quoted £450 for the same car for my renewal at 24 with 6 years driving, 2NCB, a claim at fault and a CD30.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking Sennheisers. I use the HD280s for recording However, through experience, the Bose edge it for me. A close friend has went through 4 pairs of Sennheisers at £20 each time in a shorter timeframe than that in which I have owned my Bose items. That sealed the deal for me. Though the Sennheisers are still good value for money!

Bose IE2 for me. Great (sound and build) quality, comfortable, durable and good customer service.

3.266:1 for 6 speed. Most commonly A03B (smaller crown wheel size (8")). The UK spec was B03B as it is 8.7". 3.769:1 for TT auto (A02B). A02A for the prefacelift TT autos that didn't have an LSD (odd choice to opt for!).

I will only wish you the best with the rebuild and replacement parts sorting everything out if you please, please, pleeeeeeeease start typing "bought" and not "brought". They mean different things.

Yep, further to that, if it says 01 then it is 4.083:1 diff ratio, if it says 02 then it is 3.769:1 and if it says 03 then it is 3.267:1. If it starts with an A then it is small case (8" crown wheel size) and if it starts with B it is big case (8.7").

Ahhhh, 2 threads on the same subject at once haha! Yep Jekyll said it. A01B is what you want to have an LSD with the same ratio.

The plate code corresponds to what you have. Most NA auto cars have the code A01A as they have the smaller casing (the first A represents this), the diff ratio of 4.083 (the 01 represents this) and an open diff (the last A represents this). If you were wanting to fit an LSD, the factory option which was available for the NA auto was a Torsen LSD with the 4.083:1 ratio. This would make your code A01B (optional on the prefacelift SZ). The only NA which came with the 3.769:1 diff was the 6 speed SZ-R (facelift model).

A02B means: A - Crown wheel size of 8" 02 - 3.769:1 diff ratio B - Torsen LSD

Diff type A is an open diff, B is a Torsen LSD.

Just this:

Bump for a disgusting concept

How much do the facelift looms normally sell for? I'm keen but would need to courier them!

Ah, beaten to it by the man himself haha!

Lip - Seibon. TJ I think? Sideskirts - Blitz Diffuser - Shine Auto (TS style)

I'm not sure, I'm prefacelift but just bought a facelift bumper and wings so need to sort out some front indicators and don't know all what I would require

Yep, MarcAB10's car. First Supra I ever had a run in/drove. The seats are OEM prefacelift seats retrimmed in chilli red leather. The retrim was done at Transcal in Livingston.