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Si_s Supe

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Everything posted by Si_s Supe

  1. Interesting! Have a little look here - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=306362 I'm convinced my top and bottom rad hoses are over pressurised too but the consensus of opinion is that it's normal. As said on my thread, imagine pumping a bike tyre to the operating pressure of your rad cap (in my case, 1.1 bar) it will be pretty hard! Granted though, with your multiple hose failures and bulging joiners (although they look to be unbranded silicone jobbies!?) perhaps we both have a similar problem, just yours is more advanced!? Not sure about yours, but it appears my coolant system could REALLY benefit from a thorough flushing. Possibly a build up of sludge causing blockage / excessive pressure? Though I'd still expect the rad cap to relieve this.
  2. Quick update, I changed the rad cap on Wednesday with absolutely no difference what so ever! In fact, I took the car for a good blast Wednesday evening half expecting to end up with a coolant pipe splitting, but it didn't. I'm guessing, as said above, I'm talking myself into thinking there's a problem where there's not! I just can't help but think those hoses are harder than they should be.....!
  3. These look excellent. I noticed the chrome on one of my UKs is a bit bare around the fog light for some reason.
  4. We're all waiting with baited breath........
  5. Right on que, there's Chris!! Thank you. And thanks for all the responses. Very helpful. I'll change the rad cap anyway as it won't hurt and it's probably original anyway! I guess it's best to whip the thermostat out for an open system, go in through the water hoses up at the bulkhead with a hosepipe and run the engine to flush system through?
  6. Yep, I think you're right. I remember reading on a thread somewhere that Mr Wilson said it's not really worth using the red 4Life coolant, but using a decent concentrate of the same type and deionised water. I can't find that thread now, what type of coolant does the car need?
  7. So this morning I've done all of the above. Released the rad cap and it's quite manky underneath. Sucked some coolant from the expansion tank and it looks to be a good colour to me? There is some scum in the tank though. The stuff in the rad however looks to be a rusty colour. Anyway, closed everything back up and started the car from cold. I'd say the pressure in the hose was building within 1min but so was the temp. You could feel it getting warm. By the time it was at normal running temp. the hose was solid and the rad cap doesn't seem to have opened as the level in the tank didn't change. Just ordered a cap, will be here today so let's see if that helps! I'm guessing the system really wants a good flushing at some point in the not too distant future.
  8. I'll do that, cheers. I remember when I had my turbo, the relief valve in the cap disintegrated completely. When the car has cooled, I'll give it a good check over.
  9. Ah, makes sense. The hose just seemed to be a lot harder than I'd expected. It says on the cap 1.1 (I guess that's bar?) I've just done a 35 mile drive and the hose is almost solid. This photo, although not great, shows me squeezing the hose pretty hard. I can compress it only by around 10mm.
  10. Hi all, Just got home from work and wanted to remove my broken fan shroud to carry out a repair. Quickly realised the top rad hose needed to be removed for this. I gave the hose a bit of a squeeze and it feels pressurised! The bottom hose the same. Pressure seems to be dropping as the temperature lowers. What souls be my first port of call to check? There are no adverse symptoms. No over heating or hissing after use. I'd never have known if I hadn't squeezed my hose!! (Ooh err!)
  11. I've just refreshed the Jspec brakes on my NA. Fully rebuilt calipers with genuine Toyota discs and pads all round from Beadles Toyota (heavily discounted) and Goodrich braided lines with new DOT 5.1 fluid. Made a massive difference. Look here: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=305622
  12. Haha...I agree!! Re the choice between silver and anthracite, may be worth noting they're on a silver car. Would anthracite not look a bit dark??
  13. This is true, I've had a cracked rim on another car before, but as seen in the photos above there is certainly air leaking from around the valves so that'll have to be the first port of call.
  14. Thing is, you can't seal them as that's what causes the issue. Moisture gets in under the lacquer and causes this horrid 'spiders legs' marking. If they're polished again they need to be left open and basically Autosol'd every week.
  15. My car is fitted with TRD Type F/T wheels. They're in need of a refurb as the dishes have corroded. I'm actually considering getting the entire wheel powder coated either silver or anthracite including the dishes but excluding the bolts and centre caps. Two reasons for this, 1. It will be cheaper than betting the dishes polished and the spokes coated and 2. If I get the dishes polished, they'll only corrode again as the car is driven all year round and I don't have winter wheels. I actually think it will look really nice, but opinions are welcomed! Rear: Front:
  16. Well, there's my answer!! NSF is spewing it out in comparison to the other three which are also weeping! If I buy these valves, http://www.wemoto.com/parts/picture/hl-500415_5/ , I wander if the seals would fit onto my current ones!?
  17. Awesome. Thanks guys...as usual! Will get on this when I get the chance and see what needs ordering before I get my new tyres fitted!!
  18. Cool, I'll have a go at that, if for no other reason than to confirm the valve is leaking. Although these are 2 piece wheels, they're not actually split rims. The spoke section bolts to the rim section.
  19. My car came fitted with TRD Type F/T 2 piece wheels. The NSF loses air and needs pumping up every other week. Seeing as the wheels must be pretty old now and I assume the valve seals have never been changed, I'm taking a stab in the dark at that being the culprit. The valves are metal bolt in jobbies as you can see in the photos below and are just off 90 degrees. Anyone know where I can get new seals or if needs be entire new valves? Trawled Google and visited three local tyre shops and have drawn a blank so far!
  20. Wow, that looks fantastic!! jcbt, make sure you get some photos up when it's all fitted please!
  21. JM Imports have got to be the best! I very almost bought one from there before a nice facelift TT6 came up with Scooter! Another one I'd say is worth a look is Torque GT. I've not had any personal dealings with them, but know people who have and can't say I've heard any nasty stories.
  22. All the very best for today mate! Car looks amazing...and you've been spotted on Facebook!
  23. Just to update this for future reference for anyone, I have NO brake squeal at all without the shims. The brakes are sharp and the pedal feels good. Can't see the point in them ever being there TBH!!
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