ADL Mark

I thought they might just be selling something I don't really need. I'll have a half decent pump anyway, so can always add a filter later on if it becomes necessary.

Decided on making a garden pond, wanted one for ages but got some spare time so decided to go about this. It's roughly 6'x8' and will be around 3' deep in the deepest section (about 3'x4') and max of 900 gallons. Planning on having several nice plants around and on it as it'll be a garden feature not just a box with water and fish in it. At the back is going to be a small waterfall, not more than 1' high, gently coming down to a beached area that goes in to the pond. Pump in the bottom will pull the water up and let it run down the waterfall. Probably a small fountain bubbling in the middle too, looks and sounds nice and helps oxyginate the water I understand. The big question really is do I need a filter. Books I've read so no, not unless you have Koi and as long as you have a few plants and running water to keep things along. Pond shops (unsuprisingly) say must have filter, preferably with UVC and should you want Koi the filter will be bigger than your house and you will need a mortgage to buy it. I've spoken to people (Tricky-Ricky on here included) who have quite large ponds compared to mine and several Koi and no filter. I think I'm worrying too much and the pump will be fine, what do others think?

I'm suprised Spit and Polish won't do it, I thought they tackled almost any type of wheel?

Haha.. brilliant!

A is the better option as you're still using the sensor's original scale. If you're using the other scenario then the whole scale is off and then only to reach the same point anyway. Seems pretty pointless using injector adjustments to then tune this out.

I don't know about in the Supra community but there's been a lot of questions in the GT-Four community about the strength of Eagle rods..

That would be so much more interesting.. Thanks for the replies Matt.

Bohemia Road would have been closed by the time we wandered there in our pissed states, Scofferes bright lights always look so inviting.. Spacers!! Yes, sorry Dick.. Phone me tomorrow lunchtimeish to remind me and I'll go have a look, I know I'll forget by the time I wake up in the morning!! As for the FMIC, as long as it's as efficient as the standard one I will be happy for the time being. It's only going in because I thought it would be easier than pipework for the SMIC. Otherwise I'd have probably preferred to keep the SMIC but maybe get an uprated one.

Interesting, I shall have to have a closer look. Did you have an active spoiler before? Just checked my FedEx tracking number and apparently the package (turbo kit and Innovate kit) will arrive on Weds as it was picked up today. Amazing how it can get from the US to my door in two days but half the stuff I order in this country takes over a week to get here from 100 miles away

I see what you're saying Matt, makes sense. I suppose to Joe Public, sometimes it would just be handy to see some of the formulas they use because the quotes between people and even for the same person seem to vary wildly. To us, it just seems like they're plucking figures out of the air. It's quite frustrating.

SupraD06 - how did you get around drilling holes? In the instructions I have it says holes (80mm) need to be drilled either side of the IC for the pipework to go through? Mine appears to have metal panels where yours doesn't? Thought I haven't taken the bumper cover off yet to have a proper look..

What's so bad about the end tank design Homer? Don't be sorry, it's best to know now!

Car was standard but for an exhaust, decats and wheels. I said 500bhp as a ball park figure for the single conversion. To be honest, I didn't know what to expect but more than 50% seemed like quite a hike.

Ok, so pictures of the Autobahn88 FMIC. Not the best quality on the market but cheap and should be effective enough for the time being. When the LM-1 arrives I will hook it all up and get some temperature logs to see how well it actually works. This is not an XS-Power one rebranded either, I checked pictures of the cooler and the pipework first and they're quite different http://www.i-macca.co.uk/temp/singleconversion/FMIC2.jpg The main FMIC core straight out of the box and below with a tape measure for size comparisons. http://www.i-macca.co.uk/temp/singleconversion/FMIC3.jpg http://www.i-macca.co.uk/temp/singleconversion/FMIC4.jpg http://www.i-macca.co.uk/temp/singleconversion/FMIC5.jpg Inside one of the 3" outlets http://www.i-macca.co.uk/temp/singleconversion/FMIC6.jpg Closer views of the core http://www.i-macca.co.uk/temp/singleconversion/FMIC7.jpg Closer views of the core http://www.i-macca.co.uk/temp/singleconversion/FMIC9.jpg Aluminium pipework (which needs thoroughly cleaning out as is full of crap from where they were manufactured and would not be good in the engine) http://www.i-macca.co.uk/temp/singleconversion/FMIC10.jpg Full set of accessories with the kit, all hose joiners, jubilee clips, 4 brackets and nuts and bolts. And also a 2' long autobahn88 sticker.. I would have had it fitted over the weekend but kindly a local kebab shop had me laid up over the weekend with food poisoning from a reheated burger. Cheers

Greddy Profec-B is a good controller. The Apexi AVC-R is also very good, and has some nice extra features but can be tricky to set up sometimes. You should be able to pick both of those up for about that money, in fact I have a used AVC-R for sale for a lot less at the moment

I quite like the 10's

No, shouldn't be too bad. I'll be doing mine this week so I hope not anyway!

Yes, all Supra's have an air con rad and can fit a FMIC in fine. You'll probably need to relocate your radiator expansion tank and re-mount your power steering cooler pipes but otherwise no problem.

Until now I was 24, 6 years NCB and paying £810 FC on a UK, they reckon about £1300 with the single conversion.

Sounds very much like the seals in your master cylinder have gone dry, happened on a Celica of mine when it was left dry for too long, no amount of attempted bleeding will sort it.

Line pressure regulator.. Maybe something to do with the autobox? If indeed your car is auto? Where does it wire in to, can you see?

Since it's a UK car going single, maybe I should stop complaining then! And yes, 24 nearly 25. But everybody who doesn't know me reckons I'm just over 30 A Slowline

** Sorry for the large photos directly in the thread, they are all hosted on my webspace and so can't do thumbnail links to them, apologies! ** Well following on from my recent thread about what I had ordered, the final spec is decided and most of it ordered, on it's way or already here. I'll be starting the build this week, and I'll take photos as much as possible to help others out with the build. I know it's been done before, but every little helps hey! Final spec: * PHR Street Kit (PHR GT60, cast log manifold, downpipe to adapt to standard UK downpipes, ITS 50mm external wastegate, screamer pipe) * Link Plus G3 (to be fitted and mapped by Ryan.G) * Innovate LM-1, Auxbox and XD-16 wideband gauge and datalogger * Autobahn 88 FMIC kit (600x300x77mm with 3" outlets and all aluminium piping to fit) As with respect to the FMIC, I was planning on keeping my standard (but in very good condition) SMIC but the PHR turbo and piping come to as a 'drop-down style' so will not meet up with the pipework. It turns out this FMIC kit follows the same route as the old SMIC piping so some alterations will probably have to be made to get everything to line up, we'll see where that goes. It did occur to me that clocking the turbo could also be a simpler method to resolve this, but I can't tell until I get the turbo on there. The FMIC actually looks quite well made inside and out, I've got some photos which I'll upload later that show the welding etc. It's hardly the best quality, but it was very very cheap. Only thing I didn't realise had to be done with a FMIC of this size, was cutting 80mm holes in to a section of metalwork under the end of the chassis legs! I also intend on taking out the Iridium plugs, at least until the mapping is done but I'm not decided yet and putting in some NGK BKR7E coppers. I think these should be around the right fuel range for a small single running 1.2-1.4bar. I'll be keeping the standard 550cc UK injectors for the moment. The only other thing I need to get is an adaptor for the oil return from the turbo, as this apparently fouls on a steering rack bolt. Some have successfully turned the bolt upside down but not everybody seems to have the same success. I think a 45 degree fitting the same as comes with the BL kits will do the job, but I haven't been able to find out exactly what fitting is needed yet. I think it's a 45-degree male to male 10aN to 1/2inch NPT but that seems a bit strange. I would have thought the oil pipe would have screwed directly in to the flange that you get for the oil return in which case it would be something like a 1/2NPT male to female. Unless the kit comes with a straigh adaptor already? Maybe somebody can confirm? I've got some help with this in the form of an Engineer/tookmaker mate and his metalsmith brother, so I'm hoping any small problems and pipework needing re-routing can be sorted pretty quickly. I'm hoping (since I'm not working all week) that if the weather stays nice enough I can get all the old stuff off and the new stuff on by next weekend. Very ambitious but why the hell not! Some old UK bits coming to a For Sale thread near you soon!

Ooh, ok cool. Thanks for the info!