pezzler

Good write up with helpful pics Going to be giving this a go tomorrow

What i think i'll do is just check the voltage from the efi power wire. I'm guessing it should be a 12v constant. Just seems strange that it only really plays up under load. I'm hoping uts nit going to be an issue withthe walbro pump, that collar was an absolute PITA to get on/off.

Thanks Alex, I'll be checking all of these things tomorrow. I whipped the ECU out earlier to check the connection between pin31 on connector block 1, and the board. This is the pin location which I cut into to power the FCD, just happens to be the power for the EFI relay. Just seems suspect It was this pin which came free from the connector block, I pushed it all the way back into the block but maybe its that thats causing the problem?? We'll see Thanks to all of you for your help

I'm in Banbury I'm going to c0ck around around with it a bit more tomorrow, I dont want to let it beat me! If either of you would be able to help out if needed, that would be pretty cool. I can offer my mrs in payment :eyebrows:

Lincolnshire! Thats not very local mate, would you seriously want to drive all the way doen here?

Yeah I know, cant bloody get it there though. Would'nt feel comfortable taking it to a local auto sparky, and closest people to me who know anything about Supra's are Thor -and they're 30 odd miles away

I'm using the EFI power feed from the ECU to power the FCD, as per instruction. When I was stripping the insulation from the wire, the pin popped out of the connector block. I reinserted the pin the correct way around, and all the way in - could this have caused an issue? Sorry to ask, but i'm reeeeeally stuck

Right, I've tried little bits and bobs to sort this over the week. Firstly, I removed the FCD and connected everything back up as it should be. When I fired the car up, it idled smoothly and it revved smoothly up to 4.5-5k. When I took it for a test run, it ran like a bag of sh!t; it was jerky, it was missing occassionally, and it did'nt fuel correctly on change up (its an auto) I assumed that this was the ECU "learning", and thought whats the point in it learning without the FCD fitted. I refitted the FCD, checked everything twice, and attached the ground to the ECU casing - which is supposed to be the done thing. I went for a test drive, and the same as above kept happening. I battled on though (having to left-foot brake to keep the revs up ), managed to get off of the estate onto a quiet stretch of service road. The car seemed to drive fine a very low speeds in "L", it was a little shakey in "2", and completely undriveable in "D". When in "D", it struggled like mad, it kept missing, and it would almost stall on change up/down. In reverse it strangely ran quite smoothly, even at speed. When the car felt like it was stalling, there was a lot of relay clicking - would I be right in thinking this would be the EFI relay?

I feel for you, must be in a bit of a predicamant So I take it your side of the company (bodystyling), is still operating as normal?

I live in a flat which has a 5 allocated parking spaces, in off road car park I looked out of the window the other day to check my car, as I do as habit every few hours (OCD); I spotted a child, about 6 years old, using the bonnet as a means of climbing the fence that it is parked in front I was fuming, but what can you do!? I noticed that he had'nt used the bonnet of the clapped out peugeot as a stepping stone - little sh*t! My car is now parked a good 3 feet away from the fence in question In the very same car park is the enclosure for the bins; one of my neighbours put a sofa out for the council to collect. I came home the other day to find that the sofas had been taken, but a dent had been left in driver side rear quater. A right angled dent, a little like the kind you would get from the foot of a sofa ...again, fuming

I was going to try and take it for a test drive last night, but I was worried about doing damage if it wasnt quite right... think i'll just bite the bullet and give it a whirl tonight I'm sure my car is'nt as fragile as I imagine it to be

In summary: I fitted a HKS FCD incorrectly, splicing into the sub-throttle position sensor wire, and using the wrong wire for the ground. I rectified all of the mistakes and started the car, but it the revs pulse between 1.5k and 2.3k when idling, and it sometimes stalls when you pull away Any advice please technical guys - have the car booked in to be resprayed on the 5th of July, so I really need to sort this out Cheers

I disconnected the neg on the battery everytime I touched the ECU so that should have done the job Thanks for the input anyway

WARNING, THIS IS LONG-WINDED!! Please could someone help me out, or point me in the right direction? I'll start from the beginning: on Saturday I fitted an AEM boost controller, no issues. On Sunday I fitted a Walbro fuel pump, again no issues Yesterday morning I decided to fit a HKS FCD (brand new), and connect the speed signal (de-restritor) wire for my Thor TSD/DSC... this is where the problems started In haste, I thought I would splice into the ECU harness with the ECU in-situ, rather than removing the three plugs to have a clearer look. The problems started when, initially I spliced into the sub-throttle position sensor wire (pin 63), rather than the turbo pressure sensor wire (pin 62). Then, I also fluffed the grounding of the FCD by splicing the ground wire into the sensor ground (pin 65) I reconnected the battery, and fired the engine up (with the above wiring mistakes). When it started the needle on the rev counter span up to about 4.5k then flickered, although in reality the revs were around the 2k mark. Then the counter needle dropped to 2k then the engine and needle pulsed between 1.5k and 2.3k. I left it running for a while to see if it would rectify itself, but it didnt. I switched the ignition off then fired it up again, and the revs flew upto 2k, then dropped down to about 700 and idled smoothly. Great I thought, so I decided to go for a test drive, I put it in reverse, pulled of the driveway, stuck it in drive, let my foot off of the brake, and it stalled. I turned it over again, put it in drive and managed to get it back on the driveway. I thought that it would be an issue with the FCD, so I checked all of the wiring properly with the harness disconnected. I found my "boo boo's" and rectified. Fired the car up and the same thing was happening; revs pulsing between 1.5k and 2.3k. I decided to disconnect the TSD wire and hook it up as stock, as it was the easiest place to start - no joy. I then double checked all of the wiring, i'm getting continuity through everything, including the repaired c*ck-ups, and have double checked the pin locations - all fine. I then decided to disconnected the FCD and reconnected all of the original wires. When I started the car, it was exactly the same. My questions are: Could I have fecked the ECU by wiring the FCD up incorrectly? Is there anything worth checking under the bonnect TPS etc? Could I have killed some sort of relay or fuse? Could it be that my car is running purely on the ICV, hence the stall when trying to pull away? Sorry about the essay chaps, but i'm bamboozled Cheers, Andy

That post sounded a little negative so just for the record, It is a really nice looking car, and it has a decent spec. If its worth the travel, go and take a gander! ...bare in mind that £4800 is regarded a lot of money when it comes to N/A's - especially an auto one

Sounds like the garage have fitted non-standard nuts; maybe something like the Muteki nuts that have splines in them If they are'nt the type of nut you could fit a socket onto, you will need a key of some description. If you're sure they have'nt given you one, or left one in your car without telling you - take the car back to the garage and find out what the score is

Tidy car for a tidy sum £4800 is a lot of money for a N/A - but if its what you really want... If you want to know the spec of the car, the best thing to do is use the search section of the toolbar - you will find everthing you will need to know. ...and no, there arent many modifications for power gain on a N/A

Are you saying that they're too tight, or that the head of your brace doesnt fit the nut? Have you tried a socket and breaker bar?

No, not for the swerve test at all! I read somewhere not so long ago that they were condsidering introducing a restriction period - something similar to the 33bhp rule. Not to be a killjoy, but i think the 33bhp rule should apply to all A 2 year learning curve would be benficial , being able to jump onto a bike that can accellerate 0-100 in under 5 seconds, following a training course which could span just a few days is madness ....then again, when I was 17, the restrcition washers didnt sit in the carbs on my zx7r for long!

I think with bikes; you get used to the straight line acceleration pretty quickly, but it takes time to master cornering. In my opinion, I think you're better of learning about cornering and weight distribution before you move upto something more powerful Theres more to it than stop and go, this is how the inexperienced and impatient riders get into trouble. I'm glad the governent have changed the rules on motorcycle licenses

...did'nt say you were

Unfortunately I hadnt read any bad reports from Envy personally; I didnt think to check up on them either as I made the assumption that they were a reputable company I hope the next guy reads a thread like this first

Well, some occassioanlly slip through the net How do you get on with the tru boost? I have one on the way from MVP.... ironically I also have the Uego on the same shipment

EFI do them for £164; dont take offense, I just made an observation - you did do well seeing as it was 2nd hand