pezzler

Just incase anyone stumbles on this in the future; I had my car delivered to thor racing yesterday. They were able to diagnose and rectify the problem within an hour.. Basically the 12v feed into the ECU which controls the main EFI relay (pin 31 on the single multi-plug), had a bad connection. Someone ([OOPS][/OOPS]) must have been a bit rough with the wire, and caused it a bit of a mischief. One of their engineers was able to source a replacement section of wire with a decent crimp on it; he fitted that into the multi-plug, soldered it in to loom, and the car was running fine. I'd like to add that although i'm a "hav-a-go-er", somethings are best left to the professionals. I was tearing my hair out trying to figure out what had caused this problem, and they sorted it in an hour.... ....Oh, and since visiting there today; i'm very much interested in the v8 supercharged conversion I spoke to them about :eyebrows:

I think "that thread" may be open for some time....

A heavy chested 19 year old at work told me - "your car is well fit, I think I like you even more now" I leaked a little...

How many do you think the Supra has? Mine looks like it has four seats, but they dont work right unless the people being carried are workers in a mysterious chocolate factory. Ever considered an Aristo if practicality is what tickles your todger?

...Wait patiently

Is the difference worth the hassle of raising the extra funds to purchase a UK spec? If you dont mind me asking, how old are you? There might be someone on here that could offer some decent insurance advice. Personally, at 26, with all my mods declared, I find my j-spec very reasonable at £540 fully comp

How about... buy a J-spec?

Yeah, I bought a few bits off of a guy who wrote his sup off because of the TCS. I do always have it switched off, but it serves a 2nd purpose on the auto. I have since read that alot of people just removed the whole assembly to give more aggressive gearchanges with the autobox. Think i'll just disconnect it and see what happens

Bump-diddly-ump http://http://bxtr.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/mustache-_0006_ned-flanders.jpg

A wise move my friend

N/A's are notorious for this problem. I had it with my old car, it would seem that you have got a bit of wet water down on your spark plugs. Try to get in there and mop it up, then take the plugs out one by one and give em a clean up/dry off. Good luck, the spark plugs are a PITA to get to on a N/A

Apocolypto - cracking film

Just for test purposes, and maybe to give me enough steam to get it up to THOR, Would it be okay for me to just unplug the TRAC butterfly motor?

Well I have just been out for a short drive, I tested the box through all the gears. It may be that the original stalling/running rough may have been the ECU relearning, or its just an intermittent fault which did'nt seem to occur this time round. What I have found is, that the car will drive fine in L, 2, and R. When D is engaged, the car will drive smoothly up until gearchange. When changing up or down, the engine feels like its being starved of either air or fuel. Given the dark cloud on restarting, i'm saying its air. I'm assuming this is an issue with the sub throttle assembly; maybe the motor is holding the butterfly shut for too long etc. Anyone heard of this? Thanks Andy

Yeah, I just had a read of your old thread. I have had the throttle body off and given it a good clean, my air filter is only a couple of months old too - a real head scratcher

2 weeks ago, my car was running perfectly fine , with double decat, and 1B restrictor ring Since then, I have fitted a HKS FCD, an AEM boost controller, and a Walbro fuel pump. When I took the car for a test run after fitting the above; it would stall intermittently when moved from P into N,D,2, and L. I removed the FCD and boost controller With FCD and boost controller removed, any attempt to drive the car would cause it to judder and stall; on restarting the car I get a dark puff of smoke which would indicate a rich mixture. I have tested; - the o2 sensor - engine temp sensor - throttle position sensors - replaced the ECU - cleaned out the throttle body - cleaned out the idle control valve Any ideas?? It just seems strange that it will idle perfectly fine and rev smootly through the range until you put it into gear. Am getting really frustrated I just want to reiterate that the car was running fine before mods, and has been over the last 3 years. Could it be an issue with the fuel pump? pressure too high and not bypassing back to the tank? Any comments very much appreciated

Anyone able tp shed any light on this? What I have done this week: -removed boost controller - removed HKS FCD - cleaned out ICV - removed and cleaned down throttle body - tested and adjusted both throttle sensors - checked continuity between ECU pins and severed wires - checked resitances on engine temp sensor - replaced ECU I'm still getting the same fault, but no fault code are being logged When I fire the car up; it revs around to 2k, pops, then drops down to a steady 1k then 900/800 when warm. I can rev the engine smoothly all through the rev range when its in park As soon as I apply load, it coughs and splutters. I'm having to use the brake as a clutch so that I can keep the revs up, but the car is more or less undriveable Should I suspect the fuel pump?

Cheers mate, but I have just acquired one from QSD. I did give steve at inchcape a call, but he wanted £210 including discount ...crazy money

Hi all, I have recently been sorting a few niggles; one of which being jerky gear changes (its an auto) I had the throttle body off today as I wanted to check the throttle sensors and sub-throttle motor I tested the motor using Toyota guidelines (check resitance between pins: A and A-. Pins: B and B-). I had readings of 0 ohms in both instances So it looks like i'm replacing the motor. Does anyone know if its just a "plug and play" part? I'm assuming that it wont need to be calibated, and the sub-throttle position sensor will let the ECU know when to give the motor some juice. Is this correct? Thanks

I'm in the process of eliminating possibly causes of my recent idle/fuelling issues. I have removed the FCD, TSD, and boost controller. The car ran like sh!t after fitting these I have a few/lot of quick questions about the ECU When the ECU has been reset, how should I expect it to run at idle, and under load? Will it be a case of it running a little rich, then a little lean? My car is an auto, will it hesitate and splutter a little during auto gear changes? On a "cold start", will it initially idle really low(900 rpm) rather than the usual 1800(ish)? Last one (), when I initially start my car after having the battery disconnected; it idles smoothly at about 900rpm from a cold start. If I switch the ignition off, then back on it will pulse between 1800(ish) and 2200(ish). Has anyone had this following a reset? Sorry about all the questions, just want to make sure its going to do no harm by driving it

MY! arent the clips on all of the above very, very very brittle Anyone wanna buy a j-spec?

Turns out, this little beauty goes all over the engine bay - Pin: E2 on MAF - Pin: E2 on Turbo pressure sensor - Pin: 1 on sub throttle sensor - Pin 4 on throttle position sensor - Pin: 1 on EGR temp sensor - Pin: 1 on A/T fluid temp sensor - Pin: 1 on coolant temp sensor Oh how we laughed... ... not as bad as Englands defending though

Thanks for the advice, dont worry too much about the picture. I pretty much have been curled up in the footwell of my car for about 4 days now, everything is out of the way so I should spot it Electrical problems are my favorite....

Is the a big earthing point behind the jesus christ handle?

As it stands, getting my car sorted has become more important than the game this afternoon, so any advice on sorting this quickly would be very much appreciated. I have has a few throttle/fuelling/idling issues since a botched FCD install. I tapped into the sensor ground rather than the ECM ground. see thread (if you like that is) http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=221224 Anyhoo, I repaired all connections, removed FCD etc etc - same issues I have just been out to test the ECU grounds, what I have found is; i'm getting continuity between the ECM ground (pin 69), and ECU cover, but nothing between the sensor ground (pin 65 from memory??), and the ECU cover I'm guessing this is whats causing the problems I'm not really prepared to track the sensor ground wire through the car as it looks like it could be a PITA. My question is: Could I ground the sensor ground wire from the ECU directly onto the ECU casing? Seeing as it all goes back to the same place, surely this wouldnt be an issue? Thanks in advance for any input Andy