pezzler

All sorted now - cheers Swampy

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://motortorque.askaprice.com/images/features/428-288/New-Aston-Martin-One-77-supercar-images-leaked-20571.jpg&imgrefurl=http://motortorque.askaprice.com/news/auto-0810/new-aston-martin-one77-supercar-images-leaked.asp&usg=__rIBWzDxdUGDlDj8J8yuYbJmMRD8=&h=288&w=428&sz=38&hl=en&start=0&sig2=KrMZ2XKN-brychd5XSUhgw&zoom=1&tbnid=BHmor4R0fEVV5M:&tbnh=164&tbnw=246&ei=oo4KTebDFtWAhAfunPSEDw&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dnew%2Baston%2Bmartin%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DX%26rlz%3D1T4TSEA_en-GBGB329GB330%26biw%3D1419%26bih%3D611%26tbs%3Disch:1&um=1&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=383&vpy=355&dur=6271&hovh=184&hovw=274&tx=163&ty=127&oei=oo4KTebDFtWAhAfunPSEDw&esq=1&page=1&ndsp=10&ved=1t:429,r:6,s:0 Looks familiar..

Thought so The 2 weeks that my car was running without an o2 sensor, and using the UEGO as ECU feedback, I was having intermittent issues with rough idling/almost stalling - when hot, it kinda wanted to die at 750 rpm As soon as a stock o2 was refitted, and the UEGO was used purely as a monitoring sensor, the problem was disappeared. Maybe the WB sensor doesnt like being mounted so far up the downpipe?? Or maybe it doesnt like being used as a feedback sensor for the ECU. Bit odd that we have had very similar issues after having the same set-up

Dont Toyota do a specific tool for this job, not sure the cost involved, but there is a part number in the manual

As stated in the title, i'm after an ICV - obviously from a car that had no idling issues! Drop us a PM if you have one you want to sell Cheers

Think you may be right I'm hoping that its the UEGO though, would be cheaper to replace than the gauge unit. Definitely suspect though; seems odd that when the car was relying on the UEGO for ECU feedback, the car was running like sh*te on idle. As soon as the stock o2 sensor is refitted, the car runs sweet but I get intermittently odd readings on the AFR gauge. I'm 99% sure the car is running fine, and that there is either a signal issue or poor calculation within the gauge itself Just as a future word of warning for whoever may be looking into an AEM gauge - make sure the UEGO sensor is fitted downstream of the stock sensor! I believe Swampy has/has had similar idling issues with his car, and his AFR gauge sensor is fitted in the same position that mine was

It has been mounted in the decat pipe The sensor is a UEGO LSU 4.2 I was thinking the stock sensor might be at fault, but then the readings are fine for around 20 mins of driving. Think i'll check the voltages tomorrow just to be sure I dont even think I made any boost on the way home, It was dark and foggy! It just seemed to happen all of a sudden, nothing I did differently. Strange one, its going back in on the 7th though, going to have them stick a probe in it and run it for a bit on their dyno

Just for future reference... I have got back from THOR; spent npretty much the whole day there. They seem to have cured the issue that I had with the car running lean, by replacing the stock Lambda, and mounting the AFR gauge sensor downstream - about 18in further down Whilst there the car was running sweetly, nice and smooth through the range, no coughs or splutters. However, on the way home I was getting a pretty consistant reading of 14.5-15.5 on the motorway for about 20 mins. After 20 mins had passed, the gauge started reading quite rich figures; 12.5(ish) whilst cruising, and as low as 10.5 with the throttle closed @ 1200 RPM, and sat at idle I thought better of it so I pulled over and shut the engine off for a few minutes; this seemed to do the trick. When I fired the engine back up, the gauge read around the 15 mark on idle, I pulled away and everything seemed fine until I came off of the motorway, when it decided to display a rich mixture again - 12.5 cruising, 10.5 - 11.5 on idle Anyone have any ideas? On the plus side; I played some XBOX, and watched series 1 of "Extras" whilst they refitted the stock o2 sensor, welded in the WB sensor for the gauge, and gave the car a general checkover - I wasnt billed a penny

Car for sale 4 wheels £3000 Call me

Actually conisidered doing this myself as a temporary measure; decided to leave as is, and not to drive it. It goes in on tuesday, so hopefully will be sorted. Thanks for the heads-up though

I cleaned out the IACV a couple of months ago, and as you said, the car was running perfectly fine before the stock sensor was done away with. I'm going to be calling them tomorrow to see if I can get it booked in for Friday - really not happy with how its running It seems to be running completely shite when the throttle is closed, which would indicate an issue with the Lambda I'll update when its all sorted - thanks for all the comments

Incase anyone is interested in future (and they're an idiot like me). I had a a pretty quick response (2 hours!) from Pete at THOR, he assured me that the sensor is fine in this location, and that the wideband sensor supplied with the AEM gauge will simulate the the signal of the stock narrowband. He also assured me (as did Swampy) that the lean mixture on deceleration is normal However, I do still have the problem of the car running very lean (occassionally) at idle when warm. If i'm stopped at lights for example, the engine will idle at 750 RPM, the AFR gauge will be off the scale, dash lights flicker and the the car will feel like its going to stall. Anyone want to have a pop at this? Cheers

I'm in Banbury, and I would take you for a spin..... but its icy and i'm a coward!

I have read on a number of occasions that these symptoms can be caused by a malfunctioning speedo convertor - looks as though you have tried everything else, its worth a gander

Welcome! Any pics of your car?

Just dropped Charlie at THOR an e-mail; I asked if the work carried out is covered by any kind of warranty, they're usually quite good, so fingers crossed!

I thought the AEM AFR gauges were one of the better ones; I guess yours is fitted the same as mine, with the UEGO used as the feedback to the ECU as well the the gauge?

Not sure, i'll take a look at the harness later to see how they have spiliced it into the original loom I'm not saying anything at the minute, I know the guys at THOR know their onions

My gauge is pretty much reading exactly the same as yours in the video, on decel the mixture runs lean up until ---; the only issue I have is that it runs so lean that it has a really "lumpy" idle. The needle bobs around the 750 mark, and it feels like its going to cut out - but this is not always the case, only seems to be intermittent I might try resetting the ECU as a starting point, failing that, i'll contct THOR Thanks for all the advice chaps

Completely agree, I left the installation instructions to read at their leisure - I just assumed that they would have fitted it purely as a monitoring sensor. Just thought that that was the way they were meant to be fitted, and that they wouldnt need me to tell them how I wanted it. Might drop them an e-mail tomorrow, see if we could sort something out

Just wandering if anyone could make any suggestions on how to fix the fuelling problem; I'll start with the car and spec: 1993, Auto, TT. Full decat, FCD (HKS), AEM EBC, IK24 plugs, Walbro pump, Nur Spec exhaust, Whifbitz SMIC, AEM AFR gauge The car had been running very smootly for the last 3 years; I finished BPU'ing about 2 months ago, and it had been running pefectly - apart from it was idling at 1k on a cold start I took the car to THOR to have the AFR gauge fitted, I was going to do it myself but couldnt be arsed with cutting and welding (seemed like a lot of fannying around). When I collected the car, it said on the report that they had replaced the stock o2 with the Bosch uego that came with the gauge. I was under the impression that the sensor was going to be mounted downstream of the o2, and purely used for monitoring, but I guessed that they knew more than me about these things so I didnt question it. Since then, 1 out of 3 times, the fuelling runs really lean occassionally; this normally happens when the car is warm, in "D", and coasting with my foot off of the pedal. If I coast upto traffic lights, the gauge will move upward of 14.5 to 18, and then off the scale. When it runs off of the scale, the car idles really roughly at about 750 and threatens to cut out - a blip of the throttle and the it will drop back down to 15ish, but then it will rise if I dont maintain revs I cant see why it only happens occassionally?? Anyone have any ideas? PS. Before anyone suggests it, I cant afford to take it back to THOR at the moment!

Thats the most attractive N/A engine bay i've seen!

Obviously he isn't if he's after more power! A lot of people seem to be getting their noses put out of joint lately by other club member suggesting that the ditch the n/a, and buy a TT; it's not a dig - just a sensible answer to the question "how can I get more power from my n/a?". I'm sure a lot of people have gone down the n/a tuning route, spent 1000's, then come to the conclusion that buying a TT would have been a cheaper and easier way. I myself had a n/a about 3 years ago; I asked the question and got exactly the same reply - buy a TT. I took the advice. If its just the Supra looks and straight 6 roar you're after, then the n/a is fine - if you want some performance then you need to look at swapping out the engine, or buying a TT. Simples

I use THOR Racing when I have to; they're in Coventry

I work with a guy (also a mate) who recently bought a mk3 golf GTI 8 valve He said "my car isn't as quick as it should be, what do you reckon might be up with it" I say "it's a Golf" He says "it's a 2ltr GTI!" I say "it's an 8 valve Golf" He gets miffed and says "it's a 2ltr GTI golf, it should shift" I say "it's a 2ltr, 8 valve, MK3 Golf" He says "F**k you then you prick, I only asked, not all of us can have a car like yours" Moral of the story the truth hurts, and N/A's are not quick - we're still friends, and no Golf owners were harmed during the time of this anicdote