Ryan.G

On overnight from japan as we speak

Anyone got some cheap side skirts kicking around. Ideally ones with flat bottom. Dont want to spend £300+ on some ridox when they are going to get damaged im sure in another gravel pit!

Just run out of time again today!! Im feeling it now.. After working 84 hours last week and then last night im just KO'd... Well still owing COD tho

Read!!

Bout time!

No probs was good to catch up

Yup. Not even a Kg i would say

You were lucky the Racing Passat was in low boost!!

If anyone wants the roof scoop let me know as coudn't bring myself to cut the carbon

Now need some ridox skirts or some with a flat bottom edge to help with the flat underside. No more road use now i think!!

But it was a little to drafty so decided to cover it up with a nice carbon sheet. Also grabbed a nice Voltex Type 3 carbon spolier of Jm-imports while up mapping for them and its a work of art the car is so much more stable now at the back. Also while fitting the bits at autotec Steve found a nice F40 LMP splitter that was not being used any more. After a test fit and the Autotec magic it fit like a dream! Few other bits added like the canards and next its onto total flat bottom and sorting the brakes.

fixed

As the summer is nearly here i really wanted the car to have its own sunroof so we have started work on fitting a new c4 sunroof to the car.

I got a Cerbera with a 3000gto engine running a while ago that was pretty cool. I think a 2jz with something 4wd would be awesome

Pm me

Best bodykit available for the Supra IMO and the fit looks fantastic!

You need to wake up if you are trying to compare a syvec to a link!! I hope you know where the syvecs board originates from!! Full Traction control using indiv wheel speeds Built in scope Fully configurable on board Data logging with individual choice of logging channels and frequencies Fully configurable knock control Closed loop knock control. 3d PID mapping for anything closed loop! (worse thing about the LInks) Cal Switch support for up to 8 maps Limp Map for when an error occurs Configurable Can outputs for allowing customers to run aftermarket dashs unlike the Link that run those crappy displays with the worst screens ever! Fully 3d linearisation for any input Closed loop 4d mappable boost control for phase and antiphase setups. Built in wideband Lambda support I could go on and on but the best bit is they are a UK company so next day hardware support unlike Link!

Hi David When turning the key to start position the ST1 output on the Ignition barrel sends 12v down a black and white wire firstly to the fuse ST... Then the other side of this fuse the wire turn to the colour black until it reaches Connector IJ2 where it turns black and White again. This wire then if your loom used to be an Auto then goes to the Park/Neutral Postion Start Switch. If you have bypassed this you should have joined the black and white wire together with the black wire. Firstly check if you are getting 12v on the black wire if you have bypassed the P/N Start SW when turning the key to start. You should have and if so this black wire then runs to the engine bay fuse box to the Starter relay. My bet on the problem is that the negative side of the coil of the starter relay is not grounded as this normally goes through an Alarm system and commonly overlooked on conversions. If so pull the fuse box apart and on the underneith of the starter relay join the white/back wire to another ground source (check with meter) Then you should be away Make sure you have a ground Earth from the chassis to the engine also

Hows the head

For everything supplied fitted and mapped with eveything setup its around 2k. But its the icing on the cake which makes the cake special!

Yh but im seeing it soon again as the owner wants more boost!!

Done one with a Solaris, To4z and made 516bhp if im remeber correctly was last year

I can make the supra harness's no problem!!

Nice one mate. I really need to update my site with your car soon just like i need too with all the other cars that have done me proud this year. The problem is time!

Nice! but i would suggest adjusting turning the boost down slighty or adjusting the Voltage clamp on the FCD to make it higher slighty as its abit too lean for a TT setup. Even when i map them i drop the AFR down to around 11.2:1 after 6000 to cover the cylinder temps. Last thing you want is a knackered engine matey BTW this is nothing that garage 786 have done wrong it might be just the FCD voltage clamp is set wrong from the manufacturer or the injectors are just clogged slighty. Ryan