Scott

Anything I am jealous of is hideous

Ok so people always ask for predictions on the amount of power their car is going to make. I was copying over some stuff from my build thread and it got me wondering.... how long is this going to take me? At the moment I've worked on the car 7 seperate days. I've spent an average of 3 hours for each day I have worked on it. The build "days" will only include removing, fitting, fettling with and fabricating parts. No painting or cleaning will be included. So..What's your prediction for my build in days? I haven't actually logged the hours exactly so will just stick with days. My Build from the start of the single install

Hideous wheels.

Top left of the thread

It breathes to atmosphere as stock, so thats my reasoning really lol.

Oh good god no. The poor fella just made his way out of that hellhole

Take your pick from the 2 trains of thought basically. You can either block it off and allow the tank to build pressure to 2psi (where the cap opens). Or you can vent it to atmosphere, either by connecting to the vent that's there or taking it all away and making your own. I'm going with the latter

Thanks for that Dan. I'm almost positive it was your thread I read

Of course, all pre-facelift panels are covered with pre-war plimsoll rubber

I suggest a drive... to somewhere decent.

I don't really care if the on/off mechanism isn't great or if it's fiddly or not silky etc. All I'm worried about is the feel when you are driving. I don't want it to rattle or have any give when I'm turning. If it locks, and locks well I'll be happy. What have you found good/not so good about it?

That's what they want you to believe.

Wasn't me.

See how many points you can get.

Does the twist release not lock?

They aren't as good though. In fact I seem to remember you commenting that they weren't as good due to having UKs on the back and the car trying to turn on you under heavy breaking.

There will still be debate though. As I said, the housing of the sensor will be affected therefor skewing the actual air temperature. Anyway, I feel like I'm going round in circles and my points aren't being grasped so I'll leave you to it

Ok so in America it is frowned upon to wear white after labour day. At which point before labour day does it become OK again? Just one of those stupid questions that I always meant to ask but never got round to. They mentioned it on Friends so I thought this was my sign

In that sort of scenario, which do you think would be better?

Well that's obvious, the intercooler is "outside" the engine bay and the intake manifold is inside. No matter what sort of insulation you put between the intake and the head the intake is still going to be miles hotter than the intercooler. The question you need to be looking at is whether putting an insulator between the intake and the block drops the intake enough to actually have a positive effect on the air. We know that it has a positive effect on the intake air temperature sensor, but does it actually have any effect on the air. Remember that the intake sensor is going to be mounted on the intake and therefor the casing of the intake sensor is going to be effected dramatically by the temperature of the intake. I reckon that the difference in the actual intake air temperature will be negligeable. Easy way to check would be to fit a long thermocouple probe, that way you could centralise the probe in one of the intake runners and the housing of the sensor would make no difference.

Just had a look over the part numbers and it would appear the hubs are the same regardless so that's a little bit of a weight off my mind

I would be amazed if it made that difference to the air temperature. To be honest the difference noticed on the gauge was probably from the lesser heatsoak on the sensor housing rather than the actual air temp.

I'm looking to refresh all the wishbones etc on my car. I remember reading somewhere that there were differences between the 2, and the part numbers would support this, I'm just wondering what those differences are. I have it in my mind the bushes were stiffer in the pre-facelift? What set would be considered the best? If I wanted to change to pre-facelift, I have facelift, what would I require? Any modifications required or do I just swap over the whole wishbone assy and the job is done? What about the hubs? Thanks

I've pm'd you about a few bits mate. You been on hols? Was a week or so back