Scott

Ahh, backpeddling. Fantastic. Have a look at my statement that you rubbished and see what part of it is innacurate based on your now re-jigged argument.

Where did I say I hate MS? I love windows 7 and I quite enjoy my Xbox. MS Office was pretty good up till 2003, from there it went massively downhill for me but that may be personal preference. As I said, the Kinect setup requires a large living room to operate. It will never be as mainstream as the Wii as not enough people have the space for them. Even if they did I highly doubt everyone would just go out and buy an Xbox for the Kinect games. This is nothing to do with whether I like or dislike the device, as I stated I like it (did you miss that part?), it's got to do with simple logistics.

Solaris S6 would be no.1 if I had a hope. 43" Samsung 3DTV for the bedroom (Slim chance) Not really after anything else

2nd hand intake and throttle body will run you about £80-£100. They aren't expensive. I'm going for 700hp on the stock block. There are a couple of stock engine 700+hp cars on the forum now, the US guys run 800hp+ but not sure how their figures would compare to ours. I've got a spare engine waiting on me when I'm finished the supra though so I'm going to build that in my spare time. Remember one thing, if a built engine goes it's lots of ££'s. If a stock engine goes it's a relatively cheap fix

The back part of your exhaust (the back box) is the silencer. This can be removed where the springs are on the exhaust (it's in 2 pieces). If you take the backbox off, you can have a custom sleeve made up that goes over where the backbox came off and exits out the rear of the exhaust in a similar fashion to the backbox. The only difference being there is no silencer. You will basically have a 4" drainpipe from the downpipe to the rear of the car. It won't get any louder than that

Is that not all sales patter though? Surely if the GPS was turned off and the internet was turned off there is no way that AVG could actually do anything? Have you ever had your phone stolen? I have.... twice. Both times I have phoned it as soon as I have realised and the phone has been turned "off". I'm guessing this is because they immediately threw away the SIM card as soon as they had my phone in their possession. It's a nice idea and in a perfect world all crims would be dim, but unfortunately most aren't.

Ahhhh lol.

You're going in for major overkill bud. What sort of power are you looking for? The 62mm tubby would suggest around the 600hp mark? If that's the case then there is no need to build the engine with forged parts unless you plan on going over the 700hp mark in the future. 1. For the headgasket just go with stock, don't bother with any of the HKS options as the stock head gasket is more than up to the task. It's a steel headgasket in the 2JZ anyway 2. I think you can get CP in both stock and oversize. If you are going to the expense of a forged engine I would personally overside the bore anyway so that you knew the bore was PERFECT. 3. "Bucketing" will be in reference to bucketless shims. There isn't really any need for that until going into silly RPM levels with wild cams. The 2JZ head has buckets and shims to set the valve clearance from the cams. The thicker the shim the less the gap. Bucketless shims are buckets without the shims as I understand it. They are individually machined to size. The other option is bucket over shim. This means the shim is underneath the bucket rather than on top of it. The GTR has this setup. I wouldn't worry about that. 4. A new throttle body will be very expensive. Depending on your power goals you will be as well with stock 2nd hand. If you want to climb higher than 700hp you will want an aftermarket inlet manifold and throttle body. These can be had (decent ones anyway) for anything from £600-£3000 depending what you want to spend. The TB of choice is the Q45 which can be had for sensible money. There is a fair bit of setting up involved with these though as I think they would require different length throttle cables etc etc. I would recommend having the head ported and polished while you have it off. If you plan on going BIG power in the future I would also recommend having the valve seats machined oversize and buy oversized valves etc. The only issue is that you might be as well buying a brand new off the shelf stage 1/2/3 item for the difference in having it all done seperately to your own head. Lastly I would ditch the HKS pro ECU in favour of a Solaris S6. These ECUs are the dogs danglies. They have every safety feature you can imagine, in Ryans hands you will maximise the potential of your engine and the amount of extras you can have with it is ridiculous (Traction control, boost control, multiple maps, etc). There's probably loads more but definitely don't jump in right away. You need to have a logical path of what you want to do rather than just throwing money at the engine.

Surprised you haven't found something by now mate. BTW if it's of any use to you, you would easily fetch £600 for the HKS Ti..... just in case you wanted to re-think Jamie's offer

I think it's the 1st cat the real money is in. Even at that it's not a lot.

Yup, exactly the same as what's been happening with ours. The Vpower pumps no longer have the Vpower sticker/logo on them either. Yet when you check the shell website it's listed as having vpower.

Very good advert and very well priced IMO. Ideal for anyone wanting the latest pre-facelift available

Very expensive for a shortblock IMO.

Shortblock or long block? For a long block it isn't bad but you can get them cheaper. Offer a grand and see what happens.

Glad I'm not the only one. Although we have petrol, just no Vpower (petrol or diesel).

That compression is fantastic if it's real. You can bet your bottom dollar it isn't though, the oil will be giving you false positives. As everyone has said there is nothing wrong with the figures you are seeing so it would appear everything as far as the engine goes is fine. Decide what you want to do, get it back together, fire it up and let it run for a bit. Once you are sure all the oil is out THEN do another compression test and that will let you know exactly where you stand. Personally I would be going with stock 2nd hand tubbys as the outlay is only £200-£300 and you will then know exactly where you stand regarding future mods.

I think that works out about 15mpg (UK Gallons). That isn't unheard of but it does seem low. Are you driving really short distances? If so then it's probably about right, if you are doing longer 60mph (100kmph) driving then you should be into the low 20s. The most obvious reason for this would be the O2 sensor. They are quite pricey but a must have in order to have the car running well as it will be silly rich and down on power with a broken O2 sensor. Thanks for the comments on my car, black is the best colour to have IMO but it is an absolute PITA to keep clean and doesn't look good when it isn't clean.

I'll need to have a search around and see if any local tescos stock the stuff. I have a shell 2 mins from my house but they seem to be renovating or something as they haven't had vpower for months.

That doesn't mean it's taken over the Wii. There are still FAR more people using/playing the Wii than there are the kinect. I have played the kinect and whilst I really enjoyed it, I couldn't have it as my living room isn't large enough. You need a HUGE area of space to make any use of the thing. The Wii is fine in the smallest of kids bedrooms so IMO it will continue to stay ahead of the kinect until the next gen wii is out..... which will then probably surpass the kinect. The graphics are nothing to do with the kinect though, they are to do with the xbox 360 which is technologically far more advanced than a Wii. Couple into that that the Kinect is an accessory, far cheaper than a console, it's fairly acceptable that the sales are faster than a console. Was the Wii previously the fastest selling electronic device? I would be surprised if it was.

You really have no idea what you are talking about do you?

I have no idea what you mean bud, could you take pictures?

Just to add. When you are driving the car, do you feel a sudden pickup around the 4k RPM mark? When the 2nd turbo comes online you should feel a power surge. If you aren't then it would suggest the 2nd turbo isnt coming online. The 1st turbo is then left to do all the work and will run out of puff soon after, making it read 0.6bar but feeling very sluggish.

I would take the car to an auto electrician bud, that thing is a bonfire waiting to happen given all the electronic goings on you have. Sounds like things are shorting out left right and centre. It really isn't something people can comment on without seeing the wiring and being able to see what is going on. I would personally take out the ETTC mod as I wouldn't want to rely on someone elses work, especially considering the bodge work that seems to be going on already. If you want to have the ETTC mod then fine, just get someone who knows what they are doing to do it properly with all the correct methods of splicing. As for the boost it could be down to a few things. First thing to check for is boost leaks, be sure to check every coupling there is for splits or loose joins. Do the same with the vac lines, check every single one (PITA) to make sure they are not split and that they are on correctly, take your time as some can be hard to see properly, you need to check all the way around them. Does the car still have the stock cats in place? Stock exhaust? If it has a double decat and an aftermarket exhaust I would look to see if there is a restrictor ring in place. If there is.. measure it and report back. If you're still at a loss remove the turbo pipes from the front turbo and have a look at the blades on the tubby. If they are gubbed then that could explain why you are seeing low boost levels. You should be seeing around 0.6-0.7bar on the 1st turbo and 0.7-0.8 when both come in (around 4krpm). What boost gauge are you using? Where is it taking its feed from?

After a pair of mint doorcards if these are good?

Welcome Quite the plough you had there