TubbyTwo

So after a month away from the supra and the forum due to hard study for a new Career which was stressing me out, Im back, with a clear head to get the Supra up and working again Going to read through the last few pages again, have printed off some wiring diagrams and I'm going to get cracking this BH weekend. Have tried and test 2 TPS and both produce the same results, both give the same resistance readings so this leads me to think its a wiring issue. Going to start at the ECU and make sure all the pins are making contact and test from there. Also going to try and source a spare ECU to swap and test to elimination that.

Very Nice!!!

Check the car for error codes as well, its very simple, paperclip in ports TE1 and E1 in the diagnostics port, ignition to acc then watch the engine management light on the dash. Takes a fem mins but could show up any problems. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?35920-How-To-Check-the-diagnostics-codes

Similar to my problems, have you checked error codes? I'm having a TPS/circuit problem at the moment.

Come back to this after having a few days away car has now been sat in bits for about 2 weeks as I now have a run around for day to day, danger is I need to fix the supra or it will just get left So... To the best of my ability I think the TPS is now centred although as per the instructions I cant get any reading when the throttle is spaced with a 0.60 feeler, tried 2 different multimeter's and both just read OL on the display through various settings. On both the original TPS and the one supplied by Lee @ SRD. Also I have no way to put a vacuum on the throttle opener as per instructions. Remove the feeler gauge and I can now get readings but again either it just says OL or 0.00 so have manually centred the TPS and checked EL2 and IDL pins and it just reads 0.00. Will fit back on car tonight, but not expecting it to make any difference. Next up I guess is to try and work through the maze of wires with a multimeter OR as I'm off on holiday for a week soon just dump it at a garage and get them to look.

I had one fitted up to last week, fancied a change to the stock box. Although I like the noise of both. Granted I haven't taken a drill to mine lol

OK thanks my multimeter doesn't beep so will have to find someone else to test it. How do i test the other parts? at the ecu in the footwell? Sorry I really am a complete simpleton when it comes to this stuff.

Right think I have it sorted. with the feeler gauge in it reads 1. with no feeler gauge it now reads 0.00 so assume that's zeroed back to stock?

Guys im stuck with this bloody TPS adjustment. got the throttle body off the car, got the 0.60 feeler as per instructions probing the E2 pin with the negative and the IDL pin with the positive on multimeter. Multimeter is set to 200ohms, and I get the same reading no matter what I do it always says 1. nothing. If I move the TPS it jsut says the same reading 1. nothing. any suggestions?

Now thats some serious work he puts into that. Gone are the days of just washing the car with a simple bucket and sponge, now it takes me ages thanks to DW

Is that a grater? lol

yes boys!!

try the rear of the spokes as well mate, there should be a load of size info like this: Not come across an alloy that isn't marked.

There should be some markings on the rims mate to tell you the size and width eg 9J (width) ET45 (offset). These are usually on the back of the hub or sometimes on the inside lip of the alloy.

indeed: http://imageshack.us/a/img211/5373/dscf0333z.jpg

What sizes buddy? Volk F-Zero Challenge if I remember correctly?

Hi folks Just spotted this UK spec getting some love from a well know detailer over on detailing world. Makes a nice read, the paint finish is pretty impressive once finished. http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=294432&highlight=Supra Anyone on here?

I'm sure I have a Max Power tuning guide somewhere, I will dig it out. Loads of handy tips for drilling the airbox, fitting ecotek valves, fitting power magnets and quite an in depth section on electric dump valves and electric superchargers. A good 15hp to be had from drilling the airbox!

Right, after a beer and a serious chill out I got back out there, the throttle body is off the car and I can now reset it as i can actually see the pins. The TPS is a working one as its from SRD so no issues there so it needs resetting with a multimeter first before I go looking at any wiring. one step at a time

Well as expected that didn't go well, failed at testing the TPS sensor itself. due to the angle I cant see to get the multimeter plugs in to even check resistances, I don't really know what I'm looking for with it anyway despite following the testing pages from the manual. I couldn't get any readings so don't know if its the wrong setting on the multimeter or I'm not doing it right. That combined with the fact the bonnet dropped and whacked my head, I got some serious red mist. I'm now sat here deciding what to do with the car, at the end of my teather with it, had to come inside to stop me taking a hammer to it. Its probably just a simple problem but I no longer have the interest or motivation to even wash the car because of the last few months let alone try and fix it. I doubt an average garage could sort the problem, and cant afford another big bill for something that's not going to solve the problem, also any decent specialist is miles away and I don't fancy taking the car on a long road trip in its current state. So at present I'm 99% sure its being broken up the next few weeks, downside is at the moment its my daily drive so I'm just going to get more and more angry with it.

Question is, if I do find one of the wires has an error its going to be a right mission to fix I expect, assume it will be a case of tracing the wire back and cutting the loom open and replacing the whole thing? or just replacing the damaged section. either of those I not particularly enthusiastic about doing.

Ok so just reading through the TPS reset procedure: Top of page 2 it mentions adjusting the TPS until the ohmmeter "deflects" does this mean it reads the same as the values in the table shown on page 2? Want to make sure I get this correct the first time. Going to spend a full day tomorrow testing everything, drove to work this morning with the windows down, round some twisty country lanes and the car has decided to behave itself for the first time in god knows how long. The love is coming back, so have a new lease of enthusiasm to try and sort it. I was also thinking last night, I have a one of hecklers rear fog PCB conversions to the drivers side rear light, could this cause a problem with the brake signal to the ecu if it was corroded/loose wire? Plan tomorrow is: - reset TPS sensor - swap and test spare transmission ecu - check TPS and ILD wires to ecu - check brake signal to ecu Also have a new set of spark plugs to fit and want to check the all the coil pack clips if there is time.

you are not wrong my friend, starting to fall within reach of the chav crowd now.

Let the car warm up, took it out for a decent drive to get the oil temp up and sods law it didn't misbehave at all. So tested it. Idle is still to high, from cold it sits at 1900 for a minute then drops to 1100 then down to 900 after that. Think I may need to reset the TPS as per service manual again. Also when its "knobbing about" the vac reading on the ebc gauge goes from -78 to -54 constantly.

Right tested the O2 sensor quickly tonight it doesnt give a solid reading, its constantly going up and down. readings take on the 20v setting on multimeter: The lowest reading was 0.06v Highest was 0.79v Constantly cycling between the high and low readings with 0.4 and 0.6v showing frequently. So guessing its goosed?