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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

tDR

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Everything posted by tDR

  1. And so the slippery slope begins once again....... No idea on the boost btw lol Bri.
  2. You can disable the auto lock doors feature of the Toad Ai606.... I'm sure this would solve your problem. Have a look at the card that came with the system, it will tell you how by entering a code via turning the ignition key in a set sequence. HTH, Brian.
  3. The UK's are 550cc and are a different fit / power from the JDM car's 440cc injectors......... watch which ones you buy, I'd guess the JDM 440cc's are what you are after for a 1JZ-GTE. HTH, Brian.
  4. tDR

    Hello

    Hiya........ good to sea you Brian.
  5. tDR

    Back from TOTB3

    Absolute quality to watch............ huge congratulations to dude on his runs today Beating the CRD Supra was like watching david topple goliath The race vs. the RK skyline R32 in the final looked really close as well, didn't catch the times. CRD - Awesome performance on the majority of your runs..... can't help but think if you'd beaten dude you'd also have beaten the R32 in the final. Great to see it in action again........ I see there's a couple of large bottles of NOS in the passenger side of the car now too, don't recall seeing them at Crail. Anyone know who the overall winner on points was then? Brian.
  6. He doesn't have a 2nd turbo now............ lol Good informative read Ian
  7. I wrote it, as a more accurate translation of what is available on the Jap auction sites in bad english. I know the gradings and have seen evidence because I import myself. ChrisR - That's incorrect, I've seen cars from 1986 with grade 4 ratings and often see '93's and '94's with grade 4 or 4.5 ratings. supradibbs - That's unlucky but the way to avoid that is to deal with someone that has a good reputation for importing honest cars. osso - The grading system only reflects what the jap auction engineers can see / feel / hear as they inspect the car in the auction house yards. Again, I've imported quite a few cars now (it's a hobby more than anything else) and have found the auction gradings to be entirely accurate if you go by the translation of the description that shows why it was awarded the grade. There's always going to be the odd one that slips through with an un-noticed fault I'd suppose though, but I'd say it's very rare. HTH, Brian.
  8. Anyone can enter the UK D1 series Brian.
  9. I'm sure I've seen that somewhere before lol Very modified cars tend to be graded in the majority of auctions as 1 - that's what that grading is reserved for. A grade 2 car is a shed period. Clarkey_Sparkey - Suggest something suss in the cars you looked at....... the Jap auction grading system is very accurate in my experience. A grade 4 or 4.5 car is a safe bet Justin - 3.5 sounds accurate for what you describe, so a sound car other than the cosmetic damage but again the auction sheet will detail all faults that will make you realise why it has been awarded the grading it has if you have it translated. HTH, Brian.
  10. tDR

    club membership

    ^^ paying by bank transfer afaik....... Bri.
  11. tDR

    Supra's in Europe...?

    Hi Phil, They don't crop up in the UK..... not even sure if there is the same badging as the jap imports for the euro models so don't know if it would be a GZ but you're best looking to europe or perhaps importing from the states for a LHD TT HTH, Brian.
  12. Sorry to see this At least you're all ok and hope you get something sorted soon. Brian.
  13. Nah, Adam's was 480bhp @ the fly Hamish. Think his best at Crail with that setup was 12.8 before he sold it. Bri.
  14. I think that's a bargain price for such a nice condition, genuine TRD3000GT! Congratulations!
  15. Very very nice car! Congrats on such a rare find. Being nosey I know, but how much has it cost? Brian.
  16. No didn't sell it then SG and have only just got round to putting it in Autotrader now, really need to sell it now so have reduced the price to £10,495 ONO. Will dig up my for sale thread now.... Cheers, Brian. P.S. I'm bringing it to Billing.
  17. The expansion tank has its own plastic cap, the rad is the thing at the very front of the engine bay, with it's own metal cap in the middle with two little wings. As Term says, buy a new rad cap and put it on, run the system through with water by pouring it into the rad and into the expansion tank, caps off of both whilst you're filling up. Keep revving the engine slightly from the bay to suck the water into the system and continue to top up via the rad until it's constantly pissing the water back out even when revving. If it's OK and the temp isn't shooting up to red on the gauge then get yourself back to Toyota and buy enough 4-Life red (also available in green) coolant to do a complete flush and change with that. Here's hoping it's just been something as simple Brian.
  18. Blown head gasket or blocked / leaking rad IMO Hope you get it fixed ok m8 Brian.
  19. A wise precaution on any turbo'd sportscar.... walbro item recommended.
  20. Worst case scenario IMO: Toyota IC - £1,000 ish CW IC - £500 ish They agree to pay half of the cost of a new Toyota IC......... guess what you do with the money Bri.
  21. That's the spirit Just rears you need as they wear very quickly with spinning em up all the time whilst on the move. Fronts don't wear much........ I usually run original wheels on the back with my 17's on the front.
  22. Yes, you can argue that the dent in your intercooler is causing an obstruction in airflow in turn causing poor intercooler efficiency as the exhaust gases from the turbo aren't being cooled effectively which could result in high charge air temps and extremely high Exhaust Gas Temperatures (EGT's) leading to running lean and the possibility of detonation which in turn can cause melted pistons and the need for a full engine rebuild That cover it for ya m8? Cheers, Bri.
  23. Anyone up for this? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=264637#post264637 Muchos fun to be had if you've got the balls for it! Bri.
  24. Drifting is a motorsport discipline new to the UK that originates from Japan. It is essentially the art of driving a car as sideways as possible for as long as possible round a conventional race circuit, linking slides and turns into one fluid, controlled movement. It is a unique form of motorsport in that competitions are comprised of individual runs judged on style rather than the more conventional tradition of many cars on track at once, racing each other. Although it might look like an extreme form of driving, the reality is that speeds are generally low and when mishaps do happen, its generally just a simple spin to a halt, before carrying on to the next turn. Drifting has been recognised in Japan for the last 30 years, but has become hugely popular there in the last 15 years and is now a fully established national sport. America is following suit and had it’s first pro drift competition in mid 2003. Japanese drivers and their cars were shipped over to compete in front of a capacity crowd. The sport is currently in its infancy in the UK, but is very quickly gaining recognition and popularity both as an easily accessible amateur motorsport and a very popular spectator attraction. In the UK at the moment, entry fees are small and any rear wheel drive road car can take part in the competitions. All that’s needed is a helmet, the ability to learn and think fast and a serious passion for driving. *** Explanation courtesy of NewClearBomb over on sxoc.com ***
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