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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Hermit

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Everything posted by Hermit

  1. Lol you edited that post in the time it took me to type 10 words! But yes, I recall good reports about CR I can't remember who used them first though, or who has put most miles on the rebuilds
  2. Erm.. that's why I said send them off for that
  3. First off.. I haven't tried this yet, but I might well give it a go on my 1JZ turbos if he starts doing CT12A kits... DIY rebuild the tubs with one of these kits (well, two for a pair I guess)... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CT12B-TURBO-REBUILD-KIT-SUPRA-2JZGTE-LANDCRUISER-HIACE_W0QQitemZ170373025728QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item27ab060fc0&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14 Then send them off to be checked and balanced, which might cost about £100, or a bit more, depending on how much work needs doing. In theory, if you marked the wheel and nut before disassembling, you could skip the balancing, but that assumes they were in balance before you started... Anyway... that's a cheap option to keep the ceramic
  4. Sometimes, I haven't tried this one yet though...
  5. Ahem! http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=194214&highlight=jump
  6. Lol... you're welcome, but leave your coat where it is, you haven't pulled! Jon
  7. Well it would move it up a gear, maybe, but you might be more in the power band? Anyway, that's the important thing - get the gears closer so you've got a bit more freedom in gear choice, and it won't hurt your time as much when you stay in the higher gear round that corner. Part number here, seems they come as a set... I've no idea about compatibility, but I can't see any obvious reason why not. As far as I can tell from the EPC, the same gears are used on the open and torsen diffs. I have heard of a similar swap being done to Soarer diff (it might even have been a Supra NA diff being fitted to a Soarer, since they're compatible). So... hopeful, but I can't confirm it.
  8. Lol, I haven't read it all either, but it looks like good info
  9. Different kettle? Or different fish? It matters! Partly the same reasoning - with a longer, narrower footprint the front part can clear some snow giving the back part a better surface to work on. But a snow tyre's profile is also different, making it push the snow out to the side better than a more square profiled tyre would. But see this about contact patch area being the same... http://www.performancesimulations.com/fact-or-fiction-tires-1.htm It's a black art
  10. Just been reading that thread... I guess since an NA can't max out 5th anyway, maybe it's not as extreme as it first appears! But I don't know where you'd find one like that - maybe on a pickup or a truck?! The US 4.272 might be as far as you can easily go
  11. Very much doubt it. Do you really want a ratio that big? 4.9
  12. Must be a very slow day on barryboys if all they can find to criticise is a Supra with flip paint and chrome wheels. But they need their criticising fix, daily, so they'll always find something. Ignore 'em If out of all this someone suggests some wheels that you would rather have, then great. Then you'd be changing them for a positive reason rather than a negative one
  13. The EPC says 49/12=4.083 for SZ-R up to May '96, and 49/13=3.769 after that. Lower gearing? So you want a 49/11? Not sure if there is one... some Chaser's had 41/10 and some 43/10, but I've no idea if they'd fit
  14. I agree with them Adjusting the cable stop will work to keep you going, but idle rpm is likely to be erratic, probably low when cold (or high when warm). Most likely IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) problem, or possibly TPS (throttle position sensor). Have you done any work recently around there? Perhaps you could have kinked a hose?
  15. I'm not sure if the vvti throttle sensor is the same, but the early one has a switch for when the throttle is closed. That's adjusted by rotating the TPS and checking with a multimeter that it's switching when the throttle is almost closed. So yes that could affect idle, if the switch isn't closing the idle rpm would probably be low. Don't know about the rest, I don't think the revving problem could be explained by the TPS
  16. In the program they did focussing on Oxford, the hotspots were the student areas - young people sharing houses means lots of laptops, gadgets, consoles etc, which is all fairly anonymous and easy for your average smack-head to shift. The really rich areas got hit very little.
  17. Dinner's ruined lol Water leak fro somewhere, the joy of living in the bottom flat eh Told the landlord on Monday there was a leak dripping through, he hasn't been to look yet. This should hurry him up! (I hope...) It reeaally stinks
  18. Likewise, sorry,, but my kitchen ceiling has collapsed :(
  19. Ah, I see, I hadn't followed the last change properly
  20. I can't guess the 'why' on that one... won't that put the columns out of whack?
  21. Right click UserForm1 and then 'View Code'. Insert this line after the one beginning with If: If Cells(row1, 4) = "" Then Cells(row1, 4).Delete Shift:=xlToLeft Sorts it out I was having a go as well, but Scott beat me to it, and his way is a lot neater
  22. :twak::twak::twak::twak::twak::twak::twak: . mankini
  23. That's right, yeah. An emanage (preferably ultimate) would do it, but you're looking at a fair bit of money all told for not a lot of gain. If you're wanting lower 1/4 mile times, you might do better investing in drag wheels and tyres... I don't know, just thinking out loud If you want as many horses as possible, best start saving for that single conversion you've always dreamed of
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