Angarak

One is a permanent Live (for memory), one is ignition live and the other is an earth. I have a partially translated version of the manual somewhere that another member (Pete) sent me...I'll try to dig it out as I cant remember off the top of my head. EDIT Orange is Permanent Live Red is Ignition Live Black is Earth See attached pic

I can think of one that wouldnt be in the top 10 *cough* No1BoyRicer *cough*

The THOR FCD comes pre-set for Supras at 1.25 bar, which is ideal if your going BPU on a JDM with a 1.2 RR. If you decat, you probably wont need a boost controller to up the boost to 1.2 bar. I see 1.2 bar on my BPU JDM consistently from 2nd gear through to 4th (I've never had the need or desire to bring tubby #2 online above 4th to see what boost I get on WOT)...I've never given if bifters in 1st so dont know what boost Id achieve there. Also, I'd have thought that the engine/turbo wear issues with BPU cars would only occur when your giving it death above the 0.8bar stock boost levels. I cant see how 'normal' daily driving below stock boost would cause excessive wear just because your BPU spec.

Chris, Making sure the resolution of the image is 72ppi will help reduce the filesize.

They completely eliminate the fuel cut - which isnt a good thing apparently.

It suits Silver Supe's IMO

My odmometer is showing just over 24,500 on my 95 JDM TT. I have the relevant documentation to confirm the cars previous milegage in Japan.

I've heard that Pigeons arent actually as big as you think once you pluck their feathers, they quite scrawny underneath.

Goes to show that it doesnt matter how many mirrors you fit on car, audi drivers dont use them!

Hi Peter, Are you getting something like Pic #1 below? if so, what is your current resolution?...and what is your MAX resolution (see Pic #2). Looks to me like your screen resolution is too low to fit in your website. Looks like your website was made for 1024x768 resolutions or above.

A hot glue gun is also suitable.

I believe their lightened weight allows the engine to rev quicker.

Sound like you need to increase your screen resolution Peter. Right-Click on your Desktop > select Properties > Click on the Settings Tab You'll see a section titled "Screen Area", with a horizontal slider control, move it to the right 1 notch to increase your screen resolution, then click OK. Your screen will change resolution and ask you if your happy with it and would like to keep the new resolution (you have 15 seconds to confirm this). Bear in mind your screen will screw up if your graphics car does not support that resolution, if that happens just leave it for 15 seconds and it will revert back to your current screen resolution.

Cheers Nic

lol

It could be Im on the wrong track lol. Im under the impression that the facelift highbeam light has a 'patterned' shiny reflector that is responsible for scattering the pattern. Here is a pre-facelift light (high beam scatter pattern is in plastic lens): http://mooch.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/supra/headlights/pre-facelift.jpg Here is a facelift light (the reflector appears to have a 'pattern' on it to scatter the beam): http://mooch.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/supra/headlights/facelift.jpg Now I know the facelift plastic lens still has 'markings' on the lens around the high beam area, but not as much as the pre-facelift. Im basically looking into the possibility of using a facelift high beam reflector/light unit in a pre-facelift headlight that has a clear lens (like the ones "suprattgaz" has made). Can anyone confirm if Im on the right track?

They would be the shiny silver reflectors with the beam scatter pattern for the high beam light On the pre-facelift headlights, the beam scatter pattern for the high beams are on the plastic lens, on the facelift headlights the high beams shiny reflector has the beam scatter pattern and not the plastic lens itself.

Does anyone know if its possible to purchase the high beam reflectors for face-lift lights on their own? (or the high beam light unit on its own)...or do you have to splash out on a complete headlight unit?

I have a hidden switch somewhere on my car that activates my 'Klingon Invisibility Cloak', had several close shaves where people havent seen me and pulled out due to the bloody thing! As soon as I find it Im turning it off

He's already spoke to one MOT place who said they should be fine, though he is going to another one for a second opinion.

Looking good Gary

I had a close shave with a couple of these Gumball w*nkers jumping a red light at speed in London a couple years back, thankfully the taxi driver saw them out the corner of his eye and jumped on the brakes, if he hadnt Im pretty sure I would have been wiped out by them. I have no sympathy whatsoever for the w*nkers who enter this and drive dangerously. If they did do a runner I hope they get the maximum sentence available.

I doubt you'd need one in a JDM Supra as long as your SMIC is in good condition.

Here are 3 pics...had to manipulate the brightness in Photoshop as they came out pretty dark on my camera Hopefully you can see enough. Basically, if you look at the 3rd picture where I hold the camera just lower than the engine tray and sump, you'll see that the sensor is not lower than the sump and cannot be seen...so shouldnt be much chance of catching it *touches wood* The bronze that you can see in the 1st pic close-up is the LMA sump plug I have, the sensor sticks out about 1 inch from it but has a very flexible wire with a spring on it which is now "u" shaped to aid clearance.

I have no clearance issues, I'll take a picture in a bit and upload it so you can see.