dwayne

this is the sensor thats snapped http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/7795/87929926.jpg i know the vpc itself has been discontinued but the sensor can still be bought for around £35-40 from USA, does anyone know if any other sensor will work or whether they can be bought from over here? seems a lot of money for something like this especially as its not the strongest of things

just noticed its idling at 12-1300rpm which is about warm up temp so i'm guessing thats what it'll do untill i put a new sensor in? still a lot better than it was though

i have been having real problems with idle being too high lately so this morning i went out for another look around the vac lines and noticed my VPC sensor was a bit loose in the manifold and when i turned it i realized that it had actually snapped off on the thread. the car was running when i unclipped the wire and the idle immediatly went back to the norm and i have now managed to get the rest of it out without dropping anything into the engine. does anyone know if there is any drawbacks to not replacing this? i have HKS fcon v PRO engine management so i assume this sensor was sending bad signals to it which have been sending my idle speeds all over the place. i'd just like to know what it actually controls for sure and if there is any reason why i cant just leave it off. i know i should probably get another one but at the moment my car has never ran so smooth, i think the faulty sensor was making it far too rich any advice will be greatly appreciated

i copied this from somewhere a while back so you could try this now (assuming you cleaned the TB already) TPS Adjustment Procedure and Testing Procedure - This is the Throttle Position Sensor Adjustment Procedure. What you will need: 1. Multimeter or Ohm Meter 2. Screw Driver (Philips) 3. .65mm (.026 inch) Feeler Gauge 4. Other size feeler gauges listed below to verify tests. Procedure: 1. Loosen the two screws holding the sensor on just enough so it can be turned. The Adjustment is very precise so just loosen the screw enough to turn the sensor. 2. Insert feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and the stop lever. 3. Connect one tester probe to terminal IDL and the other to terminal EL2. When looking at the TPS as it sits they are the two left connectors. Since we are simply checking for resistance it does not matter which probe end goes to which terminal. 4. Very slowly turn the sensor clockwise until the ohm meter deflects to 0 ohms (no continuity) and then retighten both screws. 5. Recheck continuity between the terminals. a. Insert a .54mm (.021 inch) feeler gauge between stop screw and stop level. You should see continuity. b. Insert a .70mm (.028 inch) feeler gauge between stop screw and stop level. You should see no continuity. Remember you are making tiny adjustments so it is very diificult to set the sensor in the correct place. You will probably need a few attempts to get it correct. Feeler Gauges are simply little pieces of metal that are precise thicknesses. All the ones needed are common in a set and you can get the set at sears are most tool stores. They are also very cheap. EDIT: I was adjusting a TPS today and realized there was an important trick I left out of my procedure. After you have adjusted the TPS and have the correct resistance, you have to be very careful when tightening the screws that hold then sensor to the throttle body. I generally turn one 1/8 of a turn and then the other 1/8 of a turn and repeat going back and forth until the screws are tight. This will keep the TPS from moving and changing the setting ..... if you were just to tighten one and then the next and will throw off your adjustment and you will have to do it again...basically you want to tighten the screws as evenly as possible. Testing Procedure for eletrical specifications: This is the procedure to make sure your TPS is fully adjusted and in working condition. What you will need: 1. Ohm meter or multimeter 2. .016 inch and .019 inch feeler gauge Procedure: 1. Make note of which terminal is which for future reference. When looking at the top of the TPS we will can Terminal 1 the very left terminal and Terminal 4 the far right terminal. Terminals 2 and 3 are inbetween. 2. With throttle body closed: Connect ohm meter to terminal 1 and 3. Resistance will be between .34k and 6.30k ohms. 3. With .016 inch feeler gauge between stop screw and stop lever, measure resistance between terminal 1 and 2. Resistance should read under .5k ohms. 4. With .019 inch feeler gauge between stop screw and stop lever, measure resistance between terminal 1 and 2. Resistance should read under infinite aka open circuit. 5. With throttle body opened completely, connect terminal 1 and 3...resistance should read 2.4 - 11.2k ohms. 6. With throttle body opened completely, connect terminal 1 and 4...resistance should read 3.1 - 7.2k ohms.

have you checked the actual tyre valve isnt leaking? can only be that or someone let it down if you're sure you dont have a puncture

that makes me want to pull out the 2jz and fit the v8!

damn, thats not good i have their top hose on mine so i'll be keeping an eye on it but its been there 2 years without problems so yours probably had some fault with it

something slightly different like pearlescent nano black metallic? http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/2366/bmemvzgcgkkgrhqeokiuetj.jpg

i've been having trouble with my idle lately but i put it down to the usual stuff so i cleaned and checked everything with no luck and when i was out today the problem got a lot worse. i was sat in traffic and the revs went to 2k so i turned off the engine and restarted as that has temporarily lowered it before but when i turned it over again the revs went up to 3k so as i was now getting slightly embarrased i put it in gear and used the clutch to lower it till the traffic started moving again. now when i finally got moving the car seemed to accelerate by itself for a second or 2 then let off for a second or 2 and continued to do it till got the car back home. i am really stuck with this problem now and pretty sure its not an air leak as that would make it constantly higher in revs and not go up then down all the time. i have also noticed a slight smell of fuel now too but i'm pretty sure i have no leaks so i'm wondering if this problem could be anything to do with a faulty fuel pump. is it possible for fuel to be drawn under vacuum if the pump is not working or anyone experienced anything like this before? also, is there a way to check the pump is working or not? its a TT manual btw. any help will be greatly appreciated because i dont think i can drive the car at all like that without either burning my clutch out or causing any damage EDIT: definately not the pump. i just started it again and now its just idling high as it was before (around 1400rpm). i still have a slight smell of fuel which i can smell inside the car and when i tap the throttle it holds the revs wherever i took my foot off for a second before dropping back to around 1400. anyone had this before?

its a huge job to do yourself mate so good luck with it! and thats exactly why i ruled out black

i think a lot of people get them from ebay mate. when i got some from there they were original parts anyways http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-Supra-MkIV-Boot-Lid-Tail-Gate-Rubber-LOWER-/250839496075?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a6732f58b

hehe, it was a mk3 escort for me its not daft mate, if you dont know you have to find out somehow

its normally 2 bolts in each wing and the bolts along the top at the front. you can get to them easiest by either removing the headlights and/or inner arch liners. as already said, you'd be extremely lucky to have one fit first time without any messing about with it so if you're set on doing it yourself you should buy a good replica or one from someone else thats already been fitted before to save time and trouble

i would say so but i have 1000cc injectors and HKS fcon V pro ecu which hasnt been remapped for about 3 years so i think thats not helping on fuel consumption

well i cleaned every sensor and the butterfly, checked wiring and still not fixed it. i did find 2 small leaks in the manifold where a vacuum hose and somekind of aftermarket sensor was fitted so i sealed those. sometimes my idle bounces in rythm slightly at certain revs (around 15-1600) so i started the car without the TPS connected and it did the exact same thing only it was worse so i am sure its down to that for me. i'll be getting an expert to come round now to confirm and hopefully fix it cos it is now out of my league unfortunately but if it isnt that and he finds another problem i'll let you know

google "hks evc intsructions"

attach a smaller flexible pipe to the end of the vacuum so you can feed into the bulb hole

i've been having the same issues for around a year now and i have tried all the methods mentioned here. this weekend i'll be looking at air leaks and any bad earthing issues so i'll let you know if i get anywhere this time.

can you get the inspection covers off and see how much play you have in the flywheel? mine looked ok on the surface but i only had around 40mm of play and thats what was causing my issues