How to change a Supra fuel pump.

As requested...

Simple instructions for changing fuel pump...

1. Open boot

2. Remove boot cover and spare wheel

3. Remove 6 10mm bolts from around the fuel tank access cover, (directly under the spare wheel)

4. Remove all pipework and wiring harness. Keep a cloth handy as you're about to be spayed with fuel! (3 pipes, two are only on with clips, one banjo bolt, don't lose the washers, preferably get new ones!)

5. Remove large jubilee clip from sealing ring, then remove the sealing ring (this is easiest done with a massive pair of pliers, but can be done by tapping the ring with a large flat screwdriver and a hammer anticlockwise.

Make sure you don't tap the screwdriver through the plastic ring.

6. Carefully lift out fuel pump cage assembly

7. Remove old fuel pump, (unclips at the bottom, and has a hose and wiring connector at the top.

8. Solder or crimp the new pump wiring loom making sure it's the correct length. Make sure that the connection is well insulated, and not with insulation tape as this will disintegrate in fuel

9. Re-fit new pump assembly in the same manor that the old one came off, (don't forget the little retaining clip that holds the filter bag to the base of the pump)

10. Carefully re-insert pump cage assembly, making sure you don’t snag/bend the sender unit.

11. Refit sealing ring, (this is the hardest part, it's a bugger to get it on, and I'd guess this is the bit that will take you the longest. We've found that if you spray lubricant on the thread, then start it by hand, and resort to tapping with a hammer screwdriver again, (clockwise obviously), if the ring pops out of the thread slightly, tap it around a little bit more, then tap down the edge that’s sticking up). Tap, not whack!

12. Re-fit big jubilee clip. Don’t forget it…

13. Re-fit hoses and wiring. When you re-fit the main fuel line banjo bolt, you need to hold the whole assembly as spanner tightening will move it all out of line. Also, remember to put the small copper washers either side of the banjo bolt. These are essential, otherwise it will leak

14. Start car and check for fuel leaks. (The engine may stall at first as you've now lost fuel pressure and it'll take a little time to get back there)

15. If all is well, re-fit access plate, spare wheel and boot gubbins.

Thanks Matt, that's really really useful, you've got to love this forum and it's members!

At the risk of asking for too much, anyone got a step by step guide for fitting an FPR too lol?

Maybe the fuel pump and FPR instructions should go in the FAQ as sticky threads, must get asked time and time agiain...

Also Matt, i found it better to use a small block of wood against the pastic grove ring & hit that rather than a large screw driver as it causes less damage to the plastic ring if its tight.

The ring is a right abortion. They obviously realised it's a *iss poor fit, hence the crutch of using a jubilee clip as an extra aid to stop it jumping the threads.

yikes, you guys are putting me off this job lol,

oh well I'll give it a go anyway, fingers crossed it all goes ok

Nah it fine really, just use the advise above.

Also be warned, removing the banjo bolt isn't always straigh forward as the whole unit can start to turn when you try to undo it.

Cant remember how i got around this, anyone got any suggestions?

ok lol, we I'll give it a go then, got to fit my de-cat pipe first anyway, hope that goes ok! Will be ordering the Walbro in the very near future.

Out of interest, in step (8) above it says "make sure the connection is well insulated"

What is recommended then? heat shrink sleeving? I'm happy doing the soldering, but good insulation against fuel, not sure whats best there.

TBH I was a tad shocked that there was electrics in the petrol tank anyway! but I assume it's all perfectly safe :o

Decent crimp terminals crimped properly with a proper crimping tool, or soldered with heatshrink. Preferebly self adhesive heatshrink

Just to make it extra safe, stagger the cuts you make in the wires so there's no chance of them sparking if the insulation fails (unlikely i know!)

Even I managed to get the job done in less than an hour

absolutely great Matt - ill have a go at this next week....mine has an aftermarket fuel pump, but id like to know which one it is before i continue my BPU pathway

I meant to stagger the joints as Homer mentioned but I forgot until after I had already cut the wires

So I threaded a good size double terminal block* onto the wires before I joined and soldered them. Then I slid the terminal block over the soldered joints secured it with the screws. This works very well because it guarantees to keep the wires apart and adds secondary strength to the soldered joint.

When I took the Walbro out after a year, because I was putting the car back to stock to sell it, I found that the terminal block was totally unaffected by being immersed in petrol for the last 12 months.

*(those plastic things with screws to secure the wires, they come in a strip and you cut off what you need)

My tip - if you crank the engine a couple of times after removing the wiring harness and before removing the fuel hoses, you will cut down the amount of fuel that gets spilled by removing any pressure in the system.

My tip - if you crank the engine a couple of times after removing the wiring harness and before removing the fuel hoses, you will cut down the amount of fuel that gets spilled by removing any pressure in the system.

Or just remove the filler cap, it has the same effect

Or just remove the filler cap, it has the same effect

I removed the filler cap but the banjo bolt still ended up spraying me with fuel (did it just over a month ago)

Removing the filler cap won't help at all, the residual pressure is in the line to the fuel rail, and held there by a none return valve. It only sprays for a second, no real worries if you put your fag out.

... I found that the terminal block was totally unaffected by being immersed in petrol for the last 12 months.

 

 

*(those plastic things with screws to secure the wires, they come in a strip and you cut off what you need)

I wonder what do people here think of using terminal blocks in an automotive environment?

Would they be trusted to stay mechanically tight for long?

It is bloody convenient to use them and then just wrap the whole thing in insulating tape. But is it OK in the long run?

[sliiiiiight hijack tangent there, but Matt is da man for this]

Fuel evaporates fast and smells nice Pressure schmessure

-Ian

Chocolate block connectors to automotive electricians are probably what heavy as lead, wrong offset, 19 inch rims with Eastern bloc tyres are to me...

They wouldn't be your first choice then Chris, would they?

lol, that's what I thought...

i soldered mine with offeset joins and then used petrol resistant heat shrink i purchased from Chris to insulate it.

I wouldn't do it any other way!

I wonder what do people here think of using terminal blocks in an automotive environment?

Would they be trusted to stay mechanically tight for long?

 

It is bloody convenient to use them and then just wrap the whole thing in insulating tape. But is it OK in the long run?

 

[sliiiiiight hijack tangent there, but Matt is da man for this]

I wouldn't try your insulating tape in fuel tank idea though.

no no no, I wasn't talking about the fuel tank, I wouldn't even know if that plastic gets 'mushy' after being immersed in fuel.

I was talking in general automotive use (well OK, I admit to having used it once or twice for external sensors or plugs that I wanted to be dismantled easily and didn't trust crimps)

Chocolate block connectors to automotive electricians are probably what heavy as lead, wrong offset, 19 inch rims with Eastern bloc tyres are to me...

Correct.

They do work, and can be convenient, but they can/do work themselves loose over a period of time. Not only that, but I've seen instances where the end of an earth screw has made contact with the 'exposed' part of the metal.

I know you weren't suggesting it John, but just to re-iterate, insulation tape inside the fuel tank is a BIG no-no, unless you want to claim on your fire policy

This is a great guide, but I've run into a snag. I'm unable to get the large banjo fitting to budge. It just keeps turning the whole unit. Any suggestions for keeping it in place? I don't want to bend/break any of the other nozzles coming out of the top of the pump assembly.

Edit - Got it. Just attached a bigger ratchet and gave the ratchet a quick smack with a mini mallet. The shock freed the banjo.

I had the same problem, resolved by gripping the non-turning part with mole grips.