Tommyd16 Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Since ive owned the car I have an abs issue. The abs light has been on there fore the abs has been disabled. Today I replaced the faulty abs sensor. And now when I come to a stop the brake pedal moves afew times - judders. This has never happened before. No juddering when driving. Just when coming to a stop. And only since the abs has been fixed. No abs light or warning triangle when this happens could anyone shed some light on the issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 Supra na with abs and no trac by the way. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Annabella Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Don't know if this will help http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/archive/index.php/t-307839.html Do the supra na have an abs reluctor ring, sometimes they crack and do as you said. An old MG I had did that and replaced both abs reluctor rings problem solved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Mate I had that with mine a few years back one or more of your callipers is starting seize , I gave mine a refurb and all was good after . what happens is where you press hard on the pedal to stop the pistons come out then as you ease off the other pistons come back but on one wheel they don't making the abs kick in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh42 Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Mate I had that with mine a few years back one or more of your callipers is starting seize , I gave mine a refurb and all was good after . what happens is where you press hard on the pedal to stop the pistons come out then as you ease off the other pistons come back but on one wheel they don't making the abs kick in This mate, good answer from mellonman. I've seen it a few times now on various cars, but Jspec brakes are notorious for seizing up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Check the calipers are moving freely on the sliders and the pistons and check the reluctor rings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 If it;'s not a seized caliper (and it would have to be VERY seized to lock a wheel up at walking pace, and I am sure you would feel or hear it), it sounds like the ABS is kicking in as it comes to a stop due to a sensor error. I think you can pull the ABS codes from it. If you have a decent garage nearby ask them to scope all 4 ABS sensor outputs at the ABS ecu behind the dash, whilst driving very slowly and driving over 30 MPH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 If it was a seized calliper would I not have had the same issue when I drove before when the abs was off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 I'd have thought so, sounds more electrical than mechanical. The ABS will sometimes, at very low speed, pulse the pedal before deciding it's an error if a sensor is giving no, or a corrupted signal. But I would expect the ABS light to be on showing a fault.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 I replaced the drivers side front abs sensor as that came up open circuit from fault codes. I'll have a look at the reluctor rings. I'm getting no codes now. Seems only to happen when coming to a stop or braking from about 10mph Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Still sounds like no, or a corrupted sensor signal. a scope would show the problem very quickly. Does no one else use a scope on cars except me??? Even YouTube has loads of examples of what to do and what you should see. There must be a garage near you that has a scope and someone that knows how to use it, surely? You could have access to the ecu ready to save time. Brake tester will create the necessary signals, no need to even drive it, probably. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 I'll have a look. Thanks Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 Ok I did abit more invest following; Comes up with code 71, 31, 36 All points to front right wheel. Having just replaced that abs sensor I'll have to check the reluctor ring and see if the connector is ok. A corroded connector vehicle side could disrupt the signal I guess and induce some resistance to the circuit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 It could indeed. As could a badly corroded reluctor ring or a duff sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 Hope it's not a duff sensor. That thing wernt cheap! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Its a siezing caliper, its not that it locks the wheel up it slows it down more then the others enough for the abs to kick in might count a extra tooth or something, the reason its happening now is because you have fixed the abs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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