Chris Wilson Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 I belkieve that ecu only kludges the fuel map? With those cams and injectors you'll almost certainly need to modify the ignition map as well. You need a proper mappable ecu to be frank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mclarenross Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share Posted June 22, 2014 Hi Chris, yeah I appreciate that and at some point I will move to a standalone, but there are a lot of soarer owners running the exact same set up as me, without these issues ( I did a lot of research before going ahead with this setup) I've just been out to try listening for the clicking noise from the idle valve and I can't really hear anything... Is it a number of clicks or a loud click? Could this have failed since I took it off, it was working before... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mclarenross Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share Posted June 22, 2014 (edited) Took battery off, to reset ecu, now it starts at 2000 revs and then starts to rise upto 4000.... Arghh this car ! Ah, I retract that last statement, tried it again this evening, as I found the power wire on the FCd had lost its connection. Reattached, but nee better, it just revs up and down again... Edited June 22, 2014 by mclarenross (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bossco Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 If the map sensor is wrecked then that would cause it to run rich and the revs to raise and drop. I've experienced this. I took the old map sensor off, John threw it in the bushes down the team valley, plugged a new one it, problem fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mclarenross Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share Posted June 22, 2014 Anyone know if there is an easy way to test the map sensor? I thought I'd open up the ecu to see if any of the caps had been fried, but doesn't look like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 One leg of your map sensor should have a VERY stable 5 volts on it, it gets this via a regulator within the ECU, measure this with your negative meter lead on the -ve of the battery. Anything other than 5 volts and you need to find out why. Another one of the three leads is simply an earth, but a really important one, so to check this first stick your meter lead on it with the other again on the -ve terminal of the battery and you should see 0V, if not come back and we can go through some more checks, if yes then put your meter across both of these cables and you should see a perfect 5 volts. Assuming you do we can move onto the third wire. This is the sensor's variable output to the ecu, the best way (Safest while its running sick) way to check this is with a bike pump rigged up to the vacuum pipe. With one meter lead to the car ground and the other to the third lead of the sensor, apply some pressure with the pump and you should see a nice varying output on the meter, anything between 0v and around 4.7ish depending how hard you pump. In fact I was doing something similar to this last night with a boost controller I have been playing with, and I used a one way valve in line of the pump from an old engine I have here so I could test it in a controlled way. Assuming you do have this, then go to the same wire down at the ECU end and make sure you see the varying voltage on the relevant ecu leg. On the 2j, the map sensor output is black and yellow I think, but you need to check its the same on the 1j. Something else to easily check is to bypass the safc for a really quick test, yeah its going to run as rich as hell and you need to avoid bore wash, but a quick check may reveal a lot. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mclarenross Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 Hi Shane, I'm working my through this on my own at the minute, so I have ignition on, I have the map plug out of its clip and I've tried connecting the positive of the battery to my multimeter and the other end is going to the map sensor pins and I don't get a reading, also tried plugging it into the plug end and again no reading, am I missing something or have i done that correctly? I've also pulled apart the idle valve and I am getting a ohm reading of 45 across the various connections where I think I should be getting between 15-25 ... Is this a big difference ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 Whoa, whoa. STOP! You need the meter on the volts setting, the black lead to the NEGATIVE terminal of the battery, and the red one to the sensor plug. if you have it on current and do this to the POSITIVE side of the battery you could easily burn out the ecu. Take care! As it appears to run OK on stock injectors and the stock ecu I would suspect the add on thing, or its settings myself. Are there no mappers or good sparkies up near you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mclarenross Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 Sorry sorry, I meant negative side of the battery... and no voltage. Yeah I'll use evotune in Durham to map it, but I don't think I can really drive her with this erratic idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 There's a quick and dirty way to get a better idle, but I am afraid it may get you in more of a mess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 Hi Shane, I'm working my through this on my own at the minute, so I have ignition on, I have the map plug out of its clip and I've tried connecting the positive of the battery to my multimeter and the other end is going to the map sensor pins and I don't get a reading, also tried plugging it into the plug end and again no reading, am I missing something or have i done that correctly? I've also pulled apart the idle valve and I am getting a ohm reading of 45 across the various connections where I think I should be getting between 15-25 ... Is this a big difference ? Sorry I haven't had time to get back to you, been busy with the Ace meet this afto and evening. For now stick your ICV back together again and plug the Map sensor back up. Set your meter to volts and put the black lead from your meter on the negative side of the battery. Get a pin and poke it through the insulation of the ground wire of your map sensor, CHECK WHAT COLOUR THIS IS 1st) and put the meter's red wire on this pin, you should see 0 volts, if so remove the pin and put in through the insulation of your 5V feed, again, it's essential to check what colour cable it is in the 1j, or research what pins on the 1J map sensor is what and with your black meter lead on the negative side of the battery still and your red meter lead on the pin, you should see 5V exactly. IF so, put remove the pin and stick it in the last remaining lead, on the 2J this is black with a light yellow trace, pull the hose off and put a long bit on and blow really hard down it and you should see a fluctuating voltage in accordance to how hard you suck or blow. When you have done all this come back with the results and we can continue. Will check back here tomorrow during the day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 Whoa, whoa. STOP! You need the meter on the volts setting, the black lead to the NEGATIVE terminal of the battery, and the red one to the sensor plug. if you have it on current and do this to the POSITIVE side of the battery you could easily burn out the ecu. Take care! As it appears to run OK on stock injectors and the stock ecu I would suspect the add on thing, or its settings myself. Are there no mappers or good sparkies up near you? And yes, I too think once you establish that the MAP sensor is OK you need to rejoin the wire you chopped to wire in the SAFC2, all the other wires would have just simply been joined on, but one of them you chopped and fed the ecu end of the chopped wire to the yellow wire of the safc and the away leg of the 'chop' to the white if this is anything to go by:http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2yxludl&s=5#.U6ivhJRdWqg Once you know if the map sensor and it's gnd and 5v rail are all there, remove the yellow and white wires from the safc2 for a moment, join the lead you chopped back up and try starting, if it runs ok but rich then switch off quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 One last bit of info that should help before I go to bed, I have to be up for work in a minute here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?159130-1JZ-map-sensor-questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mclarenross Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 Excellent Shane, so on the Map sensor I'm getting 0 volts on the earth, (good) that with the Multimeter on the Voltage 20 setting. I than do the same with the live feed and I'm getting 0.03 and if I blow into the sensor whilst connected to the multimeter it is again on .03 I had another look at my wiring at the ecu this morning and saw this wire isn't connected to anything... (Although I'm not sure if its was connected originally or if its really required) on the ECu it says its a No1 speed sensor and can affect idle, but that there is a second sensor used as a back up... could this be my problem? Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 If, with the ignition on, but the engine not running, you do not see 5V between the 5V reference pin of the MAP sensor connector and the negative terminal of the battery, it will never run right. See if there's 5V on any of the pins to the throttle pot and and battery negative, or to either pin of the two pin ecu water temp sensor plug, and battery negative, with the ignition on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mclarenross Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 If, with the ignition on, but the engine not running, you do not see 5V between the 5V reference pin of the MAP sensor connector and the negative terminal of the battery, it will never run right. See if there's 5V on any of the pins to the throttle pot and and battery negative, or to either pin of the two pin ecu water temp sensor plug, and battery negative, with the ignition on. Hi Chris, i didn't have my fuel pump relay in and that's why I wasn't getting a reading , I get 5.1v from both the map sensor and the water temp sensor on the neck. Which one is the throttle pot? And I see a fluctuating voltage if I suck and blow on the map sensor pressure input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 (edited) Hi Chris, i didn't have my fuel pump relay in and that's why I wasn't getting a reading , I get 5.1v from both the map sensor and the water temp sensor on the neck. Which one is the throttle pot? And I see a fluctuating voltage if I suck and blow on the map sensor pressure input The TPS is on the throttle body, it is worth a check for sure. OK so we have established that you have a good gnd and 5v to the Map sensor and that it varies with pressure...see we are getting there now What I need you to check now is the voltage between gnd and pin 2 of plug W at the ECU, leave the plug in place and use your new friend the magic pin, switch the ignition on and get your missus to give your pipe a real good suck (tell her it's good practice) and hopefully you should see the voltage variation at this pin. if you don't, try what I suggested earlier and re-join the wire you chopped to connect the safc and then try the test again. Edited June 24, 2014 by Shane typo correct (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Any news? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mclarenross Posted July 2, 2014 Author Share Posted July 2, 2014 Hi Shane, We had another go last night, with no further luck..! (tried what you mentioned above and we got got a variation) we changed the injectors back to the 440s to rule out that as an issue, we disconnected the SAFC and that didnt make a difference. we put a smoke pellet through the manifold to see if we could find any leaks... and there werent any. I'm starting to think that the issue is a high 2000k revs idle rather than the fluctuating rev issue, as if we calibrate the tps, we get a constant high idle. so Im starting to think I'll replace the idle control valve and go from there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 If your revs are going up and down, something is pulsing air into the intake. It's either the throttle butterfly or the idle control valve. I've had this issue with Simons supra. The car was reving from 700-1500 rpm regimently. It turned out there was a short, or a few shorts in the loom going through the bulkhead to the ECU on the idle control circuit which made the idle control valve pulse. The problem your having is most certainly an electrical issue. Probably caused by pulling the loom around whilst things have been added etc. If it were me, I'd pull the loom out and check for damage. It's only an hours work or so to remove it. Heatshrink any bare wiring and repair anything that looks suspicious. I'm just up the road if you get stuck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Pull the PCV valve out of the grommet in the LH cam cover and put your finger over the valve, and see if that affects things. If the engine is getting excess air from a maladjusted or leaky throttle butterfly, or PCV valve the idle air control valve may "go berserk" and try and compensate Or if it has too much advance it may do the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mclarenross Posted July 4, 2014 Author Share Posted July 4, 2014 Thanks guys, ill go through those options today, John I might have to call on your expertise if I can't get any further :-) cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mclarenross Posted July 4, 2014 Author Share Posted July 4, 2014 She's alive!!! God I'm so relieved! for anyone else reading this for future reference. It was my mistake.... You have two gaskets on the intake manifold side and they are both different and because I had them the wrong way round, it was sucking air in through the gasket. Hence the high revs.. So boxed it back up, put the 440 in and she purrs like a dream! Wine time!! thanks everyone for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Hey good news. Well done. http://ct-static.com/labels/270702.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mclarenross Posted July 4, 2014 Author Share Posted July 4, 2014 Hey good news. Well done. http://ct-static.com/labels/270702.jpg Oh yeah!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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