Scott Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 I was just about to post a question about manual boost controllers Shane but unfortunately you've provided the answer I really didn't want to hear! Are ALL manual controllers as bad as each other. They really have my attention at the moment. They can be picked up for pennies compared to the electronic units, are so much simpler to fit and to be quite honest I already have a drawer full of guages and gizmos to fit, I'd really like to save myself the pain of fitting and probably refitting even more circuitry to this project. I have a decent boost guage to fit to keep a check on what the turbos are doing, apart from the minute alterations that an electronic controller can provide is there really much of a disadvantage to fitting a suitable manual version? Truth be told I'm just a cheapskate! I have a manual boost controller and I don't have any issues to be honest. If you get a ball and spring type you shouldn't have any problems, it is the bleed valves that are generally not as good due to the fact that they bleed off a certain amount of air and don't take account of the engine working harder due to cooler intake temps etc. The MBC opens at whatever you set the spring to open at, if that is 1.2bar then it will open at that level and allow the actuator to fluctuate the wastegate. The only downfalls I can think of is that it won't be quite as accurate as an EBC and it won't react as fast as an EBC. When the weather is colder, the spring is colder and it will have a SLIGHTLY different reaction time. It is a good "meantime" fix IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 (edited) This all sounds like good news to me. I'm inclined to head in this direction for now, at least until I have the track car back together with the BPU'd 1JZ and I'm sure the money I've flittered away so far has actually resulted in something positive. Perhaps it's shortcomings in a road car might not be so apparent in a track car as constant 'tweeks' are made to the car throughout a track day anyway so re-adjusting the spring strength could be part of the routine as the conditions call for. Is there a particular MBC you'd actually recommend Scott, what are you running? Edited February 2, 2011 by pedrosixfour (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 This all sounds like good news to me. I'm inclined to head in this direction for now, at least until I have the track car back together with the BPU'd 1JZ and I'm sure the money I've flittered away so far has actually resulted in something positive. Perhaps it's shortcomings in a road car might not be so apparent in a track car as constant 'tweeks' are made to the car throughout a track day anyway so re-adjusting the spring strength could be part of the routine as the conditions call for. Is there a particular MBC you'd actually recommend Scott, what are you running? As long as it is a ball and spring type you should be fine IMO. I went with a spec-r or r-spec, or something like that, from ebay. It does the job but IMO is overpriced. The vac lines that it comes with are useless so you need to bin them in favour of your own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 As long as it is a ball and spring type you should be fine IMO. I went with a spec-r or r-spec, or something like that, from ebay. It does the job but IMO is overpriced. The vac lines that it comes with are useless so you need to bin them in favour of your own. Nice one, thank you Scott for imparting your wisdom sir. And cheering me up considerably! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_sarah Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 i wanted to do this also, where do people get their parts from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 i wanted to do this also, where do people get their parts from? BPU parts? See forum traders section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 I have a manual boost controller and I don't have any issues to be honest. If you get a ball and spring type you shouldn't have any problems, it is the bleed valves that are generally not as good due to the fact that they bleed off a certain amount of air and don't take account of the engine working harder due to cooler intake temps etc. The MBC opens at whatever you set the spring to open at, if that is 1.2bar then it will open at that level and allow the actuator to fluctuate the wastegate. The only downfalls I can think of is that it won't be quite as accurate as an EBC and it won't react as fast as an EBC. When the weather is colder, the spring is colder and it will have a SLIGHTLY different reaction time. It is a good "meantime" fix IMO. Well mine is a ball and spring type too, the other 'bleed' type available didnt really make sense to me in that it seems to go against the grain to be constantly venting to atmosphere, however small the amount is. Maybe I have just set mine a smidgen too close to the cut point, but if I do not have the FCD connected, one day I am fine but on a colder day it hits cut. As Scot says, maybe the temperature is affecting the spring tension. One thing though if you are going down the MBC route, dont be tempted to just cut the existing pipe and insert the valve. For me it was too close to the engine for comfort and made adjustment difficult without receiving nasty blisters and burns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZtwin Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Do I need an electronic boost controller if I have a J-Spec? I would always recommend aiming for around 1.0bar with the rr and then up that to 1.2 with a boost controller. As mentioned a boost controller will hold it rock steady. Without one you will run the risk of overboosting in higher gears if hitting 1.2 in lower gears, or having to live with lower boost in lower gears to combat this. /QUOTE] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashbuster Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 i tried to do mine and jacked up on the sill as high as my trolley jack went and it still didnt go high enough i jacked up the drivers side like it said in the guide to do and no luck and i couldnt put anything on the jack to make it higher because i could barely get the jack under the sill without anything on it apart from a little block to protect the sill you can use a manual boost controller bud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Do I need an electronic boost controller if I have a J-Spec? Click -> BPU No you don't need a boost controller, but a good quality electronic boost controller can make a significant difference to how quickly the turbos spool up and help maximise boost through all gears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashbuster Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 is that the gain feature ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 is that the gain feature ? Yes the gain feature controls how the wastegate opens, it keeps the wastegate closed for longer which helps the turbos spool up quicker. Some of the best EBC's also allow you to map different boost settings against speed, throttle position, rpms, etc. this improves response and maximises the boost pressure through all gears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashbuster Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 nice one, will have to invest in one when i have the car all sorted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 i tried to do mine and jacked up on the sill as high as my trolley jack went and it still didnt go high enough i jacked up the drivers side like it said in the guide to do and no luck and i couldnt put anything on the jack to make it higher because i could barely get the jack under the sill without anything on it apart from a little block to protect the sill you can use a manual boost controller bud What did you try to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashbuster Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 hi mate the guide on the mkiv said to jack up the drivers side so i put my trolley jack under the drivers side and jacked it up as far as the jack goes and is wasnt enough (using the jacking points) i have a normal usual trolley jack (well 3 of them and there all the same heights lol) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 hi mate the guide on the mkiv said to jack up the drivers side so i put my trolley jack under the drivers side and jacked it up as far as the jack goes and is wasnt enough (using the jacking points) i have a normal usual trolley jack (well 3 of them and there all the same heights lol) I'm still none the wiser of what you are doing or what guide you are following though. What is your aim to have done when you are finished the thing that you are trying to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashbuster Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 (edited) ohh the car was advertised with a chris wilson decat and i was under the impression it was a full decat but it wasnt and i had no boost gauge, so i fitted a boost gauge to see what the boost was at and it was 1 bar. i noticed it had a cat in place still and it was the first cat i wanted this removed so i bought the decat, restrictor ring, manual boost controller and fuel cut defender to fit. the guide to changing the downpipe i was following was this one http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/downpipe/downpipe.htm it doesnt really matter to me at the moment because i have other things to concentrate on with the car but i would like to know so when i come to do it when the cars sorted i can do it, wouldnt removing the 2nd cat to up boost make it hot in the area where the first cat is? Edited February 13, 2012 by ashbuster (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 ohh the car was advertised with a chris wilson decat and i was under the impression it was a full decat but it wasnt and i had no boost gauge, so i fitted a boost gauge to see what the boost was at and it was 1 bar. i noticed it had a cat in place still and it was the first cat i wanted this removed so i bought the decat, restrictor ring, manual boost controller and fuel cut defender to fit. the guide to changing the downpipe i was following was this one http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/downpipe/downpipe.htm it doesnt really matter to me at the moment because i have other things to concentrate on with the car but i would like to know so when i come to do it when the cars sorted i can do it, Now we're getting somewhere What you want to do is use the little scissor jack to get the car up off the deck, then use the trolley jack with a piece of wood on top to lift the car that bit higher. I tend to jack up on the chassis rail with the wood & trolley jack rather than the jacking point as I wouldn't trust them from not folding over. Once up high enough put an axle stand underneath the chassis rail as close to the front as you safely can and lower the corner onto it. Do the same on the opposite side. Not sure if the guide above mentions it but you will most likely need studs and nuts as chances are you will shear off at least one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashbuster Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 thanks bud great help i wont be doing it for a while yet but good to know one day i will have to invest in some adjustable ramps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayRZ93 Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 Yes the gain feature controls how the wastegate opens, it keeps the wastegate closed for longer which helps the turbos spool up quicker. Some of the best EBC's also allow you to map different boost settings against speed, throttle position, rpms, etc. this improves response and maximises the boost pressure through all gears. Hey Nic, I decided to go with an HKS EVC 5 EBC. Good or bad choice for the JDM TT? Also, is there a pictured link to show me exactly how to install this on the Supra? BTW I'm the guy from Canada, who recently bought the LS Intercooler for the Twin turbo off u. Thanks again!! Just about to go install it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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