Jump to content
The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Suprapod 2010 - Most competitive ever??


Jamesy
 Share

Recommended Posts

11.5 on a bpu car is amazing!! Maybe the BL autobox and hi stall helped a tad..... :)

 

The whole package does it. Dead easy mind, you just pull up on the line, press a button and *tada!* instant 11.5!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The whole package does it. Dead easy mind, you just pull up on the line, press a button and *tada!* instant 11.5!

 

Did you rev it right up to 3800 on the hi stall too mate before setting off?

 

Also, did u have a line lock kit fitted? I am working out how easy it is to "warm" up the tyres in an auto?! :blink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't know what the time diff would be with a normal autobox but I'm sure having the BL & hi stall helps :D

 

Dek.

 

I got bored breaking boxes - the BL took my abuse better (although the 1st one failed). It's a double edged sword - yeah it can hold power / abuse but you can't shift it manually which is actually the fastest way down the strip in an auto Supra. The hi stall and diff are key components in helping get the power to the ground properly if you know how to launch it.

 

IIRC I managed a 12.5 with standard autobox / hi stall at Elvington. Bone stock auto I managed a 13.5 at Crail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you rev it right up to 3800 on the hi stall too mate before setting off?

 

Also, did u have a line lock kit fitted? I am working out how easy it is to "warm" up the tyres in an auto?! :blink:

 

Yes, line lock is good for the burnout but not essential.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

pmsl :D You in for future ownership of my next build then? :eyebrows:

 

Stop trying to sell me stuff :) my bank manager don't like u :p

 

But yeah put me down on first dibs haha, but never know might be thinking of my own build :eyebrows: Might need to take you up on the 17's & race fuel.

 

 

Dek.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, line lock is good for the burnout but not essential.

 

 

Thanx mate. So did u rev right upto 3800rpm before launching?

 

Whats the best technique for the burnout to warm the tyres if u dont have a line lock with the BL box mate?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:rlol: I can't believe anyone would have the neck to do that :D

 

I'm super competitve.... against myself, I will see 11's :D

 

I wouldn't mind a nice 11 seconds. Purchasing a drag wheel/tyre set up :)

 

A 67 will do 11's easy on normal road tyres, now your boost is sorted you will romp that jay.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What kind of better times can u expect between running with an 18" road alloy/tyre and a 17" drag set up?

 

Might have to ask someone to borrow a set for a run or two on the day if worthwhile :D

 

About .5 of a second quicker maybe if you warm them up and get a good 60ft, every .1 of a second you save on the 60ft will be .2 quicker at the other end.

 

Say you did a 12 second 1/4 with a 2 second 60ft that run would be an 11 with a 1.5 60ft.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanx mate. So did u rev right upto 3800rpm before launching?

 

Whats the best technique for the burnout to warm the tyres if u dont have a line lock with the BL box mate?

 

FFS Jamesy stop being so tight!!!!:blink: You need a line lock AND a decent launch control if you want to run decent times, does your ecu have launch control?????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanx mate. So did u rev right upto 3800rpm before launching?

 

Whats the best technique for the burnout to warm the tyres if u dont have a line lock with the BL box mate?

 

The rated stall speed of a hi stall is confusing - it's arrived at using a very specific test. In reality, the real RPM where you break traction is around 600RPM lower in my experience but it's very much dependant on grip levels.

 

The key to a good launch is feeling the grip levels as you go for it and maintaining forwards motion without wheelspin right on the limit of traction by adjusting your throttle input according to what you feel underneath you until you know you can go WOT.

 

For a no line-lock burnout in an auto just stop in D on the footbrake with your left foot then hammer the throttle with your right, still on the brake, such that you start getting wheelspin and build up the rear wheel speed - if you then really go for it on the acceleration you'll be able to come off the footbrake and pretty much stay still from the lack of traction - I'd usually do that then start pumping the throttle to adjust traction to turn it into a rolling burnout. When you wanna stop come off the throttle and get ready to stomp on the footbrake as you suddenly regain traction.

 

Needless to say all this stuff puts strain on the car so let things cool down between runs, realise you're shortening life of components and do your best to ease that with new fluids etc. Obviously with an uprated auto setup with hi stall, heat is the enemy so decent trans fluid cooling is a must.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FFS Jamesy stop being so tight!!!!:blink: You need a line lock AND a decent launch control if you want to run decent times, does your ecu have launch control?????

 

lol my wife would strongly disagree on the tight bit while i gather additional bits on a near daily basis for the build!!

 

Looks like a line lock kit is a must though when 1/4 mile times get serious :)

 

got an fcon vpro gold ecu mate, no launch control that im aware of :search:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

perfect mate, many thanx for the tips ;)

 

The rated stall speed of a hi stall is confusing - it's arrived at using a very specific test. In reality, the real RPM where you break traction is around 600RPM lower in my experience but it's very much dependant on grip levels.

 

The key to a good launch is feeling the grip levels as you go for it and maintaining forwards motion without wheelspin right on the limit of traction by adjusting your throttle input according to what you feel underneath you until you know you can go WOT.

 

For a no line-lock burnout in an auto just stop in D on the footbrake with your left foot then hammer the throttle with your right, still on the brake, such that you start getting wheelspin and build up the rear wheel speed - if you then really go for it on the acceleration you'll be able to come off the footbrake and pretty much stay still from the lack of traction - I'd usually do that then start pumping the throttle to adjust traction to turn it into a rolling burnout. When you wanna stop come off the throttle and get ready to stomp on the footbrake as you suddenly regain traction.

 

Needless to say all this stuff puts strain on the car so let things cool down between runs, realise you're shortening life of components and do your best to ease that with new fluids etc. Obviously with an uprated auto setup with hi stall, heat is the enemy so decent trans fluid cooling is a must.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. You might also be interested in our Guidelines, Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.