Luka-P Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 Didn't Jamie get his new short block from Steve Manley for around £1800? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharpie Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 The weak points of the std engine are the rods The rods OR their bolts ? and at what point / level of tune do they become the weak point ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 So u reckon ill get a stock block and replace the cams and the con rods and ill be good? dont get hung up to much on the stock rods they are not going to get to a certain power level and then fail if you go 1 hp over, as with much on the 2JZ GTE they are seriously over engineered and a rebuilt or new stock short block will handle the power you want to throw at it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WDFL12 Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 Hi Mate ! I have build a few of these motors already , with all sorts of combinations , Im yet to see a broken standard conrod on a 2j , pistons yes plenty ! A standard motor will cope up to 600 but its the boost that will be the death of the standard pistons . My advice is contact me as we build the xs power motor .. , what ever you do do not buy that e bay one as i no where and what it came from . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaz1 Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 Hi Mate ! I have build a few of these motors already , with all sorts of combinations , Im yet to see a broken standard conrod on a 2j , pistons yes plenty ! A standard motor will cope up to 600 but its the boost that will be the death of the standard pistons . My advice is contact me as we build the xs power motor .. , what ever you do do not buy that e bay one as i no where and what it came from . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 Why did the original engine fail? what happened to it? whats the spec of the car? no good putting another engine in if say you melted the old one due to a bad spec and bad mapping to just go and do it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 Didn't Jamie get his new short block from Steve Manley for around £1800? Yup. if you are keeping the old lump there was a £300 surcharge on top of that iirc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luka-P Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 What would they do with the old one!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharpie Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 What would they do with the old one!? Clean it up, buy a glass top for it and you have a coffee table Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
botachi Posted November 14, 2008 Share Posted November 14, 2008 (edited) FYI When I removed my PHR crate engine from my Supra and installed a 2nd-hand 2JZ I bought from a local wrecking company / surplus shop, the engine ran fine. We opened up the engine recently and fantastically enough there were no visible wear marks The reason why I went with a 2nd hand engine was that it was readily available and more importantly, had all the bells and whistles (i.e. sensors etc) attached to it as opposed to ordering a BNEW block sans the bells and whistles. With my PHR engine the car had a Motec M800 and wasn't suited for road use (all-out drag engine with terrible lag on twin HKS GT3037's and ecu mapping) plus my Motec M800 wasn;t a plug-n-play item from Titan Motorsports so it uses a lot of proprietary sensors unsuitable with the OEM ECU and also had a customized wire loom that had a lot quirks in it. Toyota builds the engines well. There are a very good number of 600-750hp Supra's in the US with the stock block sporting a ported and cam'd head and big turbo but stock rods and pistons although upgraded with ARP head bolts. Personally I'd get a BNEW shortblock, then have your old cylinder head ported and polished to get more flow and help eliminate some of the lag and get more As to why I didn't persevere with the old PHR engine? It just ran too hot and I was uncomfortable with it as a whole, i.e. it might just break down one day. Make no mistake, PHR's engine was really strong and powerful, but probably best suited for full-on high-speed v-max and track driving. Not stop-n-go traffic which I have to live with Edited November 14, 2008 by botachi (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allawyg Posted November 14, 2008 Author Share Posted November 14, 2008 FYI When I removed my PHR crate engine from my Supra and installed a 2nd-hand 2JZ I bought from a local wrecking company / surplus shop, the engine ran fine. We opened up the engine recently and fantastically enough there were no visible wear marks The reason why I went with a 2nd hand engine was that it was readily available and more importantly, had all the bells and whistles (i.e. sensors etc) attached to it as opposed to ordering a BNEW block sans the bells and whistles. With my PHR engine the car had a Motec M800 and wasn't suited for road use (all-out drag engine with terrible lag on twin HKS GT3037's and ecu mapping) plus my Motec M800 wasn;t a plug-n-play item from Titan Motorsports so it uses a lot of proprietary sensors unsuitable with the OEM ECU and also had a customized wire loom that had a lot quirks in it. Toyota builds the engines well. There are a very good number of 600-750hp Supra's in the US with the stock block sporting a ported and cam'd head and big turbo but stock rods and pistons although upgraded with ARP head bolts. Personally I'd get a BNEW shortblock, then have your old cylinder head ported and polished to get more flow and help eliminate some of the lag and get more As to why I didn't persevere with the old PHR engine? It just ran too hot and I was uncomfortable with it as a whole, i.e. it might just break down one day. Make no mistake, PHR's engine was really strong and powerful, but probably best suited for full-on high-speed v-max and track driving. Not stop-n-go traffic which I have to live with Sorry im confused please note that im a newb. What do you mean by get the head ported? Say I get a clean decent longblock, what would you recommend I change to run 600bhp comfertably, everyone is telling me something different. I just want to clarify if I was going to get a stock engine what I need to change to get it running 600bhp nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allawyg Posted November 14, 2008 Author Share Posted November 14, 2008 FYI Toyota builds the engines well. There are a very good number of 600-750hp Supra's in the US with the stock block sporting a ported and cam'd head and big turbo but stock rods and pistons although upgraded with ARP head bolts. can you explain this part a bit more.... just in terms that a newb wud understand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axle Posted November 14, 2008 Share Posted November 14, 2008 can you explain this part a bit more.... just in terms that a newb wud understand If you dont mind, could you do the same. Txt spk is frowned upon here. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted November 14, 2008 Share Posted November 14, 2008 can you explain this part a bit more.... just in terms that a newb wud understand forget that............ Listen to Robbie. He has all the experience (search the threads he has started) of using built AND stock engines and has run some seriously quick quarter times. He is not active on here that much but has spent more time, money and effort than most who live on here. If you can't be arsed to search at least read the his posts in THIS THREAD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 can you explain this part a bit more.... just in terms that a newb wud understand what the guy is saying is in the US they are running 600 + HP on the stock bottom end, that is a standard crank, con rods and pistons with a ported head and cams, a ported head is basically a tuned head that has had its ports enlarged/gas flowed to flow more air (usually at the expense of some bottom end torque) at the 600-700 hp mark i dont think this is necesary but you will need some higher profile cams say 254/264 or 264/264 to make this kind of power, the ARP studs/bolts he refers to are aftermarket studs that replace the potential weak link of the piston con rod bolts, main bearings and cylinder head, again at the 600 hp mark i dont think necesary but at the 700 hp mark probably good insurance, replacing all these bolts/studs is going to seriously cost you and its not back street monkey work this is proper engine building, i would leave stock and aim for the 550 -600 hp, the single biggest improvement you could make is ditch that old skool T88 truck turbo it would absolutely transform your car and 550 hp on a T61 -67 turbo would feel a million times quicker than the same power on a T88 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allawyg Posted November 17, 2008 Author Share Posted November 17, 2008 cheers for that info mate. can I just clarify, to run 600BHP I can use a stock longblock and only change the cams to a higher profile. Ok now with regards to changing the turbo, how much would a T61-T67 cost. cos were talking G's here right? is T88 really that bad, even if its mapped nicely to spool quicker? whats a safe amount of boost to run on a stock engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 cheers for that info mate. can I just clarify, to run 600BHP I can use a stock longblock and only change the cams to a higher profile. Ok now with regards to changing the turbo, how much would a T61-T67 cost. cos were talking G's here right? is T88 really that bad, even if its mapped nicely to spool quicker? whats a safe amount of boost to run on a stock engine? yes a well maintained stock motor will be able to handle 500-600 hp, the key words are well maintained if its got 200 k miles on it and is starting to smoke its probably going to last a week , i think a bog stock T61 -67 would come in at around £600-750 (shame the exchange rate is so bad at the mo) obviously there is cheap stuff out there but turbos are not an item you want to buy cheap, drop Jamie P a pm he's a pretty helpfull chap he used to run a T88 but now runs a T67 (i think) stock motor no more than 1.4 bar boost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allawyg Posted November 17, 2008 Author Share Posted November 17, 2008 cheers for that info mate, so for 500-600bhp on a stock motor is it recommended I get uprated cams and leave the rest stock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allawyg Posted November 18, 2008 Author Share Posted November 18, 2008 cheers for that info mate, so for 500-600bhp on a stock motor is it recommended I get uprated cams and leave the rest stock? guys any clarification on this, is this recommended to leave the engine stock and just get uprated cams, if so which cams? or do I just leave the whole thing stock and run 550bhp need ur advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 guys any clarification on this, is this recommended to leave the engine stock and just get uprated cams, if so which cams? or do I just leave the whole thing stock and run 550bhp need ur advice i would not say its recomended to leave the engine stock as it could go pop within a week of hitting this power level but many have run a stock bottom end at the power you want successfully, 254/264 cams would be good or you could sacrifice pushing the power a couple of hundred revs up the range and go 264/264 and gain a bit more power at the top, or if your adamant on keeping the truck turbo you might be better off accepting you may not quite hit this power level and keep the stock cams in to try and keep the car driveable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allawyg Posted November 19, 2008 Author Share Posted November 19, 2008 its not that im adamant about keeping the T88 turbo, its jus a matter of cost. I cant afford another 2k or so installing a T67 not just yet anyways. I want to have high power levels but I want to keep the car as reliable as possible. I want to spend only on what is essential on doing up the engine, as far as ive read, I dont really need to put in forged HKS pistons as the stock ones are good enough so thats just a waste of money, I will change whatever needs to be change, but I dont want to spend money on something I dont need to do, this is why im finding out what people recommend to change to the engine to get it running 500-600 bhp reliably Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allawyg Posted November 19, 2008 Author Share Posted November 19, 2008 or if your adamant on keeping the truck turbo you might be better off accepting you may not quite hit this power level and keep the stock cams in to try and keep the car driveable why wont the car be drivable with the T88 if I put in the uprated cams?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 i think the different cams are used in smaller turbo applications to 'free up' the top end whilst sacrificing a bit lower down.........your turbo is known more for its top end grunt and smaller power band thats already high up in the rev range, the non stock cams may make the power higher but the transition even more severe and hence unmanagable/undrivable/a challenge! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allawyg Posted November 19, 2008 Author Share Posted November 19, 2008 i think the different cams are used in smaller turbo applications to 'free up' the top end whilst sacrificing a bit lower down.........your turbo is known more for its top end grunt and smaller power band thats already high up in the rev range, the non stock cams may make the power higher but the transition even more severe and hence unmanagable/undrivable/a challenge! you what, LOL sorry man I didnt understand that.,im still new to all this., what does top end mean? what do you mean by 'your turbo is known more for its top end grunt and smaller power band thats already high up in the rev range' also can you explain 'the non stock cams may make the power higher but the transition even more severe and hence unmanagable/undrivable/a challenge' cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 you what, LOL sorry man I didnt understand that.,im still new to all this., what does top end mean? what do you mean by 'your turbo is known more for its top end grunt and smaller power band thats already high up in the rev range' also can you explain 'the non stock cams may make the power higher but the transition even more severe and hence unmanagable/undrivable/a challenge' cheers dude without being rude i think you need to go and use the search button and read some books, when asking a relatively straight forward question it is taken for granted that the person asking does have a basic understanding of the internal combustion engine, sorry if this comes across harsh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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