Skyline RB26 engine build

[Chris Wilson]

Bit more progress over the weekend. Turbos and manifolds and dump pipes on, heat shields cut for EGT probes, ready for ceramic coating. All new stainless studs and nuts used to allow easy removal if required later. It's odds and sods like that that push up the cost, as much as bigger items. For example I need to make a custom Aeroquip oil line for the front turbo, as the RB25 engine mounts needed to put it in my RWD chassis foul the stock steel oil line.

 

Pics at http://www.gatesgarth.com/RB26 Race Engine6/turbos.html

 

Sample pic below of the turbos in place:

 

http://www.gatesgarth.com/RB26 Race Engine6/DSC06227.JPG

[Chris Wilson]

Been doing work on my Toyota turbo project, but got some further progress in with the Skyline engine. I have now finished the crank trigger wheel. I was told by RyanG and others that the stock optical trigger, cam mounted, was inaccurate and unreliable, so opted, later than I had anticipated, to convert the engine to a proper toothed crank trigger reference wheel, and a separate cam driven, single toothed reference wheel trigger. I bought a commercially available, laser cut 36 less one toothed wheel from a UK company (http://www.Trigger-Wheels.com). It was incredibly heavy, as it was a solid 6mm thick piece of steel disc with just the teeth cut on it, and that bugged me I milled it out with with 12 windows in it, and made an alloy hub to concentrically mount it to the stock crank damper, being sure to mount it to the central hub of the damper, which is solidly attached to the crank nose, and not the outer, rubber damped sections, which would lead to movement and inaccuracy in reading the crank angle. The whole engine had previously been balanced, but luckily I had opted for the more expensive, each part balanced individually, approach, so the balancers now could just re-balance the damper and trigger wheel assembly on its own. It was 325 grammes out at 8000 RPM, and they balanced it to 35 grammes. I use a company called Wilkinson Dynamic Balancing for high end stuff, they are superb, and one of the very few companies that can do things like V10's and straight 5's properly. Every balance gets written certification and they know enough about engines not to *ugger something up by chewing material off daft places

 

I am now making the support for the crank trigger sensor, and a plate to use the stock optical sensor casting to mount a cam trigger sensor. I also need to modify the cam pulley to take a single tooth, for the sensor to "read".

 

I need to weld an oil drain in the sump, and the breather fittings to the cam covers, and fit the oil drain pipe to the head, and make up the drain hose. I had to buy an RB26 PAS pump, pulley wheel, and mounting and tensioning brackets, as the RB25 one I had was different and didn't line up, or have the same number of belt grooves as the RB26 crank damper. I managed to get a low mileage, used set up from Abbey Motorsport for a very fair price. They have helped with some other odds and sods, too, as have RB Motorsport.

 

Wilkinson Dynamic Balancing are at http://www.wdbltd.co.uk/

 

A photo of the completed trigger, before painting, is below, further pics at http://www.gatesgarth.com/RB26 Race Engine7/trigger.html

 

http://www.gatesgarth.com/RB26 Race Engine7/DSC06295.JPG

[Ryan.G]

Nice Job

[SteveR]

Excuse the numpty question, but what is the piece of string running through what look like 6 bolts?

[ADL Mark]

Goes through the nut/bolt to stop it coming undone, extra security.

[Chris Wilson]

As ADL MARK says:

 

Stainless steel locking wire, it's an additional mechanical security on top of Loctite, if it came off it would make a very effective circular saw doing 9000 RPM....

[SteveR]

Ahh I see. Cunning, i should have realised that. I take it that doesn't weigh enough to worry about upsetting the fine balancing? Even at high rpms?

[Chris Wilson]

I have just realised I have cocked it up anyway I set the tooth gap about 60 degrees away from TDC, but have suddenly realised the sensor is also about 60 degrees skewed from TDC. So I now need to unbolt the trigger wheel, move it clockwise 60 degrees (one bolt hole) and re-bolt. Then the bloody things needs balancing again. Plonker...

[Pete]

You can see how poor the stock manifolds are as a match to the turbos by the carbon on the stock one in the photo below.

I'm pretty shocked at that. Surely that would be quite a restriction?

[Chris Wilson]

It's said, but i don't know if it's a fact, that Nissan did this to keep power below the agrred threshold, yet allow stock manifolds, albeit ported, to be effective in meeting the race regs for Touring Cars at the time. They did some N1 manifolds, (part of their factory race parts programme), same castings, but hand fettled to remove the restriction....

[Chris Wilson]

Finished the crank trigger mounting plate tonight, and the crank damper and trigger wheel are back again from Wilkinsons after my cock up I have also sorted out the Aeroquip fitting in the sump for the additional external head oil drain i have devised. I have also started machining up the cam trigger sensor mounting and tooth, which is a Bosch Hall effect type. If I can I'll finish that this weekend. I have decided the 700 cc / min injectors I bought for it, and flow tested, were marginal, so I have sold them and bought some Siemens 850 cc / min ones which I'll machine to fit the stock rail and manifold holes. I am painfully slow on the milling machine, so this has taken far longer than it should have, but at least all the disasters have been of MY making

 

 

 

[Pete]

bought some Siemens 850 cc / min ones

Crikey - it's a thirsty boy then.

[Chris Wilson]

Crikey - it's a thirsty boy then.

 

Like father, like son ehh ?

[Pete]

Like father, like son ehh ?

You're fitted with 4 pint/hr injectors I reckon.

[heckler]

 

A photo of the completed trigger, before painting, is below, further pics at http://www.gatesgarth.com/RB26 Race Engine7/trigger.html

 

http://www.gatesgarth.com/RB26 Race Engine7/DSC06295.JPG

 

If I did wire-locking like that on an Aircraft, i't get my arse kicked!

[Chris Wilson]

Quite rightly so, too. Once it's all proven to trigger I'll wrap it so it's correct and "pulling" the bolt heads in the "tight" position Was just to give the balancers some confidence it wasn't going to come off and chop their heads off.

[Ryan.G]

Finished the crank trigger mounting plate tonight, and the crank damper and trigger wheel are back again from Wilkinsons after my cock up I have also sorted out the Aeroquip fitting in the sump for the additional external head oil drain i have devised. I have also started machining up the cam trigger sensor mounting and tooth, which is a Bosch Hall effect type. If I can I'll finish that this weekend. I have decided the 700 cc / min injectors I bought for it, and flow tested, were marginal, so I have sold them and bought some Siemens 850 cc / min ones which I'll machine to fit the stock rail and manifold holes. I am painfully slow on the milling machine, so this has taken far longer than it should have, but at least all the disasters have been of MY making

 

http://www.gatesgarth.com/cranktrigger.jpg

 

http://www.gatesgarth.com/cranktrigger2.jpg

 

http://www.gatesgarth.com/cranktrigger3.jpg

 

 

 

Lovely job Chris

 

Looks like you got the gap about right too. What size is the gap and what will you be revving too? as will be able to give you a size to aim for.

 

Also you will need to be careful with those siemens injectors. I have found some of the siemen units to need Peak & Hold drivers in order to control them well around idle or anything under 2% duty.

 

But shouldn't be a problem with the Motec Injector outputs.

 

Ryan

[Chris Wilson]

Just under a 2mm gap, and less than .05 mm run out on the wheel. Thanks for the compliment Motec is happy running peak and hold, apparently it has dedicated driver circuitry for these.

 

"Injector Output Characteristics

 

 

The Injector outputs can operate in two modes: Peak and Hold mode and Saturated mode.

 

Peak and Hold Mode

This mode is normally required for low resistance injectors (5 ohms or less). This mode allows the injector current to build up to a high value to open the injector and is then reduced to minimise power dissipation in the injector. Normally this means that the ECU has to dissipate a large amount of power. MoTeC uses a switch mode technique to minimise power dissipation in the ECU. The opening current is referred to as the Peak current and the reduced current as the Holding current.

 

The peak current is fully programmable from 0 to 6 Amps and is suitable for very low ohm injectors including 0.5 ohms.

 

Holding Current: 25% of Peak Current

 

Flyback Voltage: 60V

 

Diagnostics: Open Circuit, Short to Battery, Peak current not reached.

 

Saturated Drive Mode

This mode is normally used for high resistance injectors (12 ohms or greater).

 

Nominal Maximum Current: 2 Amps

 

Current Limit: 4 Amps

 

Flyback Voltage: 60V

 

Diagnostics: Open Circuit, Short to Battery

 

High / Low Injection

The injector output characteristics may be set independently for High/Low injectors allowing two different types of injectors to be used."

 

I assume this stuff means it's happy with them?

 

Cheers Ryan.

[Ryan.G]

That gap will be fine with the MM sensor. Just ensure you run the shielding all the way back to the ecu where it can grounded.

 

Wasn't sure which Motec you had for the skyline again as some of the Earlier MoTecs didn't have the P&H drivers. They will work fine with the motec.

 

If you need the Battery dead times for the siemens give me a shout through e-mail

 

Ryan

 

 

Just under a 2mm gap, and less than .05 mm run out on the wheel. Thanks for the compliment Motec is happy running peak and hold, apparently it has dedicated driver circuitry for these.

 

"Injector Output Characteristics

 

 

The Injector outputs can operate in two modes: Peak and Hold mode and Saturated mode.

 

Peak and Hold Mode

This mode is normally required for low resistance injectors (5 ohms or less). This mode allows the injector current to build up to a high value to open the injector and is then reduced to minimise power dissipation in the injector. Normally this means that the ECU has to dissipate a large amount of power. MoTeC uses a switch mode technique to minimise power dissipation in the ECU. The opening current is referred to as the Peak current and the reduced current as the Holding current.

 

The peak current is fully programmable from 0 to 6 Amps and is suitable for very low ohm injectors including 0.5 ohms.

 

Holding Current: 25% of Peak Current

 

Flyback Voltage: 60V

 

Diagnostics: Open Circuit, Short to Battery, Peak current not reached.

 

Saturated Drive Mode

This mode is normally used for high resistance injectors (12 ohms or greater).

 

Nominal Maximum Current: 2 Amps

 

Current Limit: 4 Amps

 

Flyback Voltage: 60V

 

Diagnostics: Open Circuit, Short to Battery

 

High / Low Injection

The injector output characteristics may be set independently for High/Low injectors allowing two different types of injectors to be used."

 

I assume this stuff means it's happy with them?

 

Cheers Ryan.

[dani_r]

.....I have no idea what any of you just said.....at all! You chaps certainly know your stuff!

[Chris Wilson]

Finished the cam position sensor pickup now, will post pics later. The time it's taken me is positively embarrassing, but I am happy with the results, thank God.

[Chris Wilson]

A pic below, and more detailed stuff at:

 

IrfanView HTML-Thumbnails

 

 

It's a Bosch Hall effect sensor triggered by a single tooth screwed on to the front of the exhaust cam pulley. I changed the cam pulley mounting bolts to low hex height stainless ones (nightmare getting M7 stainless bolts, by the way.... ) I also used M6 button headed stainless Allen bolts for the adjuster ring bolts, so the only magnetic rotating part anywhere near the sensor is the steel 8mm square tooth.

[SteveR]

...so the only magnetic rotating part anywhere near the sensor is the steel 8mm square tooth.

Attention to detail, nice.

[Chris Wilson]

Thanks Steve. I also took the opportunity to use a hole saw to make an access hole to allow me to adjust the cam belt tension WITHOUT having to remove the damper and lower front cover. The RB engine have manual cam belt adjusters, nothing as fancy as the damped and automatic 2JZ ones I also cut a 120 mm hole in the cast allow top cover, to enable it to clear my new cam sensor set up, so I can retain a working belt guard and keep larger foreign objects out of the workings

[SteveR]

I also took the opportunity to use a hole saw to make an access hole to allow me to adjust the cam belt tension WITHOUT having to remove the damper and lower front cover. The RB engine have manual cam belt adjusters, nothing as fancy as the damped and automatic 2JZ ones I also cut a 120 mm hole in the cast allow top cover, to enable it to clear my new cam sensor set up, so I can retain a working belt guard and keep larger foreign objects out of the workings

Good ideas there Chris, even an outsider can tell you know your beans. Is the auto belt adjuster fitted to the Supra/missing from the Skyline a clever idea or is it swings & roundabouts? You've probbaly said elsewhere on the forum, but what makes you prefer teh Skyline for trackday fun Vs the Supra? I know along time ago you used to have a track Supra (a red one, right? I think I've seen pics of it at Oulton Park)