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Whats your wet road traction like?


Chiefgroover
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I can light them up in all 6 gears in the wet as the boost comes on.

That's with 275,35,18 Eagle F1's, stock auto diff, 6 speed box, lance W's geometry settings, KYB shocks, stock springs. That's at 1.4bar, 550+bhp and 440lb/ft of torque.

 

That will be down to the auto diff, greatly changes the gearing and traction.

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I have pretty good traction to be fair.

I'm on stock uktt6 diff, 285/35/18 Eagle F1 rears, RS-R suspension still set to a Nurburgring setting ;)

I've set my car up more for the wet rather than the dry to be honest. So its set to more or less the softest the suspension will allow... but on these RS-R coilovers.. thats still fairly stiff! I've also got a fair bit of rebound setting to control the rise of the pitch on the front and back during acceleration and braking.

 

In a straight line under 1st,2nd,3rd gear acceleration wheelspin is easily done but with throttle control its not too serious. Depends hugely on the camber of the road as to how much wheelspins it gives. Once the stock diff detects too much lack of traction on one side it likes to start ripping up both wheels.

 

Oh and I had a slightly more 'aggressive' setting placed on my alignment when I took it in last year. A little more front and rear camber was added.

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Mike, he deffo had a load of static positive on there, with that amount of drop he was prob hoping for close to zero at that point, ok he's past it a bit but given the amount of drop thats a fine effort.

For guys like you and me I try to find a balance where I get traction and handling. With many people its "add loads of camber and its better mate" which is simply not true.

Lance has the right idea, just to much neg camber for 18 or19 wheels.

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How much wheel spin are you getting on wet roads - I dont mean greasy, just clean but wet tarmac?

Please reply with - transmission, diff, tyre, and suspension type please. Also if you happen to know your rear toe/camber settings that would be a bonus also, but I dont expect many replys with that detail.

 

Hopefully we can establish the best combos.

 

Hardly any, unless I'm an absolute ledfoot in 1st.

 

Stockish TT, Auto, auto diff, Avon ZZ3 265/35/18, stock springs and shocks.

 

I'll look for my settings and get back to you.

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http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showpost.php?p=920425&postcount=32

 

 

 

Well I never, Ernie talking b*ll*ck5 again.

 

No Michael, its you talking bollo**s again.

 

I stated Lance had the right idea, referring to his caster and toe ideas, didnt say they were perfect or even that i used them.

His camber settings SUCK so your talking bo**ocks once again about a subject everyone knows you know nothing about. You childish pickings and constructed choice quotes dont even add to an intelligent argument.

So while lance made an attempt, i think you'll find people with the inside of their tyres wrecked will agree with me.

 

So Mr "know it all" YOU tell us how its done then OR get lost and stop pissing all over this otherwise helpful to many thread.

Noticed you have drop the camber debate now you know you were talking BO**ocks again.

 

This is a serious thread, and when all data comes together and info is freely available to members, they have the chance to make their cars safer on the road, may even save a life or two in the long run so as you have not posted one helpful thing yet why not go away and argue crap somewhere else, or have you got a problem with people getting safer on the road? :tongue::rolleyes:

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No Michael, its you talking bollo**s again.

 

Really? Anyone who bothers to read the thread in question can see your laughable comments and question dodging.

 

So Mr "know it all" YOU tell us how its done then OR get lost and stop pissing all over this otherwise helpful to many thread.

 

Ernie, telling people how it's done and being condescending is your job, I wouldn't even dream of competing.

 

Noticed you have drop the camber debate now you know you were talking BO**ocks again.

 

You advocated using positive camber for a fast road set up, now that is bollocks. Fine if you're drag racing or on an oval.

 

This is a serious thread

 

It isn't though is it? You'd gone quiet for a while and this is now a big ego building thread for you again I suspect.

 

I do find you amusing though so do hope you'll continue to stick around.

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Your the most unhelpful member on the board IMO.

 

Your comments have nothing to do with trying to help others out. It's just you bitching with me on a subject your ignorant on, and in doing so deterring others from adding constructive info.

 

Get used to it thicko, 1/2 degree rear positive camber on a 19" wheel car that not rock hard sprung works, until you have experienced it dont knock it. I did years ago and was proved wrong, I learnt, and now its your turn. It gives massive traction, and decent handling when using a very hard side wall tyre like RE050a. Of course being the expert you are you'll know that the outcome is varied by the amount of toe set on the rear also. So what is it you cant get your head around that hasnt been already explained?

 

This thread is designed to be helpful, and judging by the PM's i am getting about geometry and the face th face discussion I had with a member today it's obviously a hot topic. No ego trip for me, I am just doing what I like - helping decent other members out unlike you who is doing all you can to disrupt that. What's your game ****head?

 

Considering you have 10,314 posts I suspect your a computer geek with no life outside work and the screen. Go get your PS2 or whatever out and play fast cars.

 

IF you have any intelligent info to contribute........please do, BUT STOP pissing on an important thread. All it takes is one member to learn a better setup, get it and instead of becoming a victim due to his/her car sliding out of control when they didnt expect it. I am always sad to hear of a member loosing their car on a crash which may well have not happened if they had lots more grip/traction. I can only assume from your attitude to this thread your in a universe of one, and dont give a toss for the safety of your fellow members.

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Brakes traction on boost usually in first 2 gears in the wet and is very well behaved in the dry, Uk Auto with HKS T04R @ 1.2 bar Stock UK diff, tte wheels with 285/35/18 contisport 3's rear and 245/40/18 bridgestone re050's on front, full polybushes fitted and d2 racing coilovers with rear track 1 deg 30 mins neg camber, 0 deg caster, 3.5mm pos toe and thrust line 6.5 rear, and 1 deg 20 mins neg camber 5 deg pos caster and 0 toe on front.

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Your the most unhelpful member on the board IMO.

 

http://www.youre.co.uk

 

Considering you have 10,314 posts I suspect your a computer geek with no life outside work and the screen.

 

I suspect you're a self-opinionated tosser with an overinflated ego. You've constantly contradicted yourself, done U-turn's on comments you've made in the past, and have been disagreed with by many people who are actually experts in the field. Lance's settings may have a bit too much camber... but to suggest you should have positive camber is ludicrous. Carry on though, I do enjoy our little chats, you remind me of that other much missed member Mycroft.

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http://www.youre.co.uk

 

 

 

I suspect you're a self-opinionated tosser with an overinflated ego. You've constantly contradicted yourself, done U-turn's on comments you've made in the past, and have been disagreed with by many people who are actually experts in the field. Lance's settings may have a bit too much camber... but to suggest you should have positive camber is ludicrous. Carry on though, I do enjoy our little chats, you remind me of that other much missed member Mycroft.

 

 

If you read the posts dear Retard your know that 1/2 degree positive on the rear of a 19" with an re050a works fine. You constantly misquote this, cant you read???

 

your problem is YOU DONT WANT TO LOOSE FACE once again talking shyte about something you know nothing about, half reading posts and writing nonsense time after time to get the last word when you clearly have no understanding of the subject.

 

Go back to off topic where your an expert.

 

you wrote

 

"Lance's settings may have a bit too much camber"

 

You only know this because I TOLD YOU, thicko.

You have never set car geometry in your life.

 

Now where are those over active moderators ?

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If you read the posts dear Retard your know that 1/2 degree positive on the rear of a 19" with an re050a works fine. You constantly misquote this, cant you read???

 

I've never misquoted you. Your definition of "fine" is obviously different to mine. I have never tried to appear to be an expert (you could learn something here too), I merely asked the opinion of others.

 

You only know this because I TOLD YOU, thicko.

 

Hi Thicko, no you didn't tell me at all. In the original thread you just spouted forth for several posts about how the stock and Lance settings are complete rubbish and that your settings were brilliant, miles better than anything anyone else could tell you... Then repeatedly avoided the questions asking what your set up actually was. I have had two members who told me at the time that I might want to run slightly less camber than the Lance settings, but that they are generally sound. One of those is a respected expert in the field. I was also advised by the guys on the wheels in motion site, and was told that using positive camber and Jotie's (or whatever his name was in the other thread) settings were a joke. You may have heard of them, they're well respected experts in suspension geometry.

 

Tell you what, as you think you know more.......you take the thread over, its yours now, you may as well have started it, I have no further part.

 

Thank god for that.

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one last thing

 

my work verses your internet reading and namless experts of unquestionable knowing.

 

Ok, your settings are so good, the traction is so perfect, that last night we literally exploded the HKS triple disk.

The pressure plate wanted to retire after 150-200km of racing. Oh well, tonight i will just install a new one and check it out again. So basically we found the weak link. I hope with all this grip we don't blow up the Getrag and then we are in for a treat.

And when i told Dionysis, Ernie said you should maybe change your driving habbits, his response was:

 

I drive this car for the adrenaline rush nothing else, every time i drive it i rape it, if things brake oh well, we'll fix them, who cares, after all if you don't drive it like you stole it there is no reason in owning one.

 

Later

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one last thing

 

my work verses your internet reading and namless experts of unquestionable knowing.

 

Have you not heard of wheels in motion then? I guess some friend of yours who equally isn't an expert is much more conclusive proof.

 

Oh well, it was your last post, bye Ernie.

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Have you not heard of wheels in motion then? I guess some friend of yours who equally isn't an expert is much more conclusive proof.

 

=QUOTE]

 

Dimitri is considered one of the greatest Supra experts of our time by many in the international front (tuned over 80, and rebuild many also). The settings were used on his brothers car, a class one international race license holder who really knows how to test them. So you know better? lmao your such a ivory tower ahole who wouldnt know what a well setup car was as you have never owned one?

 

Thread now destroyed by you in a bout of internet terrorism. :rolleyes: Shame on the moderators for letting such an important subject get pissed on by their friend and mate, Michael Thorin self appointed genuis according to your title.

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Slightly back on topic.....

 

Does anyone care to post what they believe to be the optimum tyre size and make for the stock 17" wheels?

 

I will be mainly using them for winter driving (although our winters are hardly arctic, they are usually damp at best).

 

Stock: 235/45 and 255/40

 

Would 245/40 and 265/40 be any improvement - move tyre width and deflectable tyre wall on the back to help get power down?

 

Eagle F1's, Proxes T1 - that's all I've ever used on my 18's...

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A Supra in stock form would suit the stock tyre sizes ..... as heavily tested by Toyota themselves when developing the Supra.

But on tyre make... I really rate the Eagle F1's... (the GS-D3's that is). But the new Eagle F1 Asymetrics are getting really good reviews. The asymetrics are going to be my next set of tyres.

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