gregsupra4

So you think that we only let james use the workshop because he paid ?? Well that just goes to show that you are a very narrow minded individual and may not have been to the same type of workshop as ours. We are here to make money ( I suppose you work for free) just like the rest of the world but with a big difference, we love what we do, all of us have given up well paid positions to bring a dream alive and yes hopefully we will make a good living out of it. If you took the time to talk to our customers ( Who we class as friends) you will find that we go out of our way to be helpful even to those who just pop in with a problem, a lot of which we sort for no charge. We never mind if people want to use the workshop providing that we have space and are always ready and willing to give advise and help when needed. All in all take a chill pill mate.

Only if you feed us everyday and make all the tea's, and clean all the customers cars

Hi all, We here at Turbofit took James knackered engine out and rebuilt it ( Pete here done all the work) And we are helping him do his Single install although only from the point of giving him advice and fabracation of hardpipes and things like that. We realise that not everybody has the facilities to be able to complete a tt to single upgrade and as james's car was already in having the engine work done we thought it would benifit James to be able to do it in our workshop and have all the tools and equipment at his finger tips. (We also put him to work:d ) Whilst we are happy to provide this facility now and again it is not something that we are going to offer on a general basis so please no PM's asking about when you can hire the workshop.

2.45am Still at the workshop. Need sleep................................... Cars to finish............................. Will have them done....................................................

There is an importer in Milton Keynes who claims to have a model report for the R34 Skyline. If you PM me I will give you his number. He has I have been told already put a number through sva.

Ok remembering the whole conversation with yourself and having an excellent memory despite my age I am somewhat surprised at the comments you made with regard to my looking at your car. I pointed out that we can tune the e-manage, I did not say that we do it ourselves as we have a very good tuner at the rolling road we use who does the mapping for EMS's other than SAFC's which we do inhouse ( In fact we are also only just coming to terms with the AEM and as such have booked our car into Thor for mapping) At no point in the conversation did I disrespect either you, the car or the work done, I did point out a couple of things that we would have done differently but this does not constitute disrespect. In fact not only did I say that it was a very pretty car but should you care to remember correctly that after you gave me a spin in it I did say how fast and well it went. I am fully aware that everybody has their own favourite people to work on their car and that is how it should be, but if you wanted to put us down or pick a fight then why not do it then instead of posting inaccurate comments on here after your visit. Your opinion is yours and we respect that providing you keep to reality and do not wander off into fantasy. All in all you are always welcome here at Turbo fit as are doors are open to everybody even if only for a chat and a coffee.

I like it

Was not me it was Sam using my profile

OK since no one has asked you to do this check I will. You will find running from the intake manifold a vaccum pipe that runs down to the stock Fuel Pressure Regulator, this pipe controls via vaccum the fuel pressure to the fuel rail allowing more fuel as the vaccum reaches atmospheric pressure, if there is a leak on this pipe the amount of fuel reaching the injectors at high throttle will lessen and cause the symptoms you are both discribing. We had an NA in that had the same trouble although this was only when it got hot as at that point the pipe would not hold vaccum. Worth a try as a bit of pipe is pennies. Gazgsi dont worry to much as as long as you can get it to us we will find and sort the problem anyway. Good luck.

If you are then we are open all day so pop in have a drink and a chat.

Sorry looks orange with a hint of PINK:d

Sorry but you can remove the oil pan whilst the engine is in the car. To remove: use a good engine hoist to hold the engine up ( not remove) take out the left side engine mount, hoist the engine up a couple of inchs and you will find the oil pan will slip out through where you removed the engine mount ( not forward but out the side) The above asumes that you have already removed the oil return and down pipe. Nasty job and takes a couple of hours both ways.

To be honest it is hard to say, I have known engines to keep running for another 50 miles in that condition. One thing for sure is that any sort of high boost run would I think have caused N0:4 rod cap to have parted company with the crank and well it takes no imagination to know what would have happend then:bang:

Hi All, Well you have seen the pics and have heard what James had to say and the engine died due to oil pump failure ( Not complete Failure but full of sludge ) From what we have discovered it seems that there has been a build up of sludge in the engine this has been on going for a long time and could be due to a number of factors, wrong oil , high engine temps, filter failure ECT. The damage has been quite extensive and has taken out No:4 big end and ovaled the rod cap, the crank journal on No:4 has also been badly damaged along with the piston which has been slapping the bore and taken a chunk out out the 2nd compression ring, as you might imagine the gudgine pin has also failed. The rest of the engine components have suffered due to the amount of swarf running through but will be fine once cleaned and polished. The Crank, rods,pistons and head are now with the engineers we use and we expect to here back today as to what can and cannot be saved. The block is fine and depending on the report from the engineers will only need a flex hone. Must say that we have seen the inside of many Supra engines but the state of the inside of this one ranks high in the Oh my God stakes. Just goes to show that unless you really keep on top of things it will turn round and bite you on the ass. Still couple of weeks and James will be low flying again

HI Ya

Some water injection users have used significantly higher water to fuel ratios (25%+). The technique usually involves increasing water flow until the engine bogs down or comes close to misfiring then pulling back a little bit, before leaning the AFR significantly and finding the MBT advance needed. These techniques take significant amounts of experience and are less compatible with most street setups. Average street uses should try and target 10%-15% water to fuel. Aggressive street and moderate track use can pretty readily utilize as much as 25% water to fuel especially when using a mixed methanol injection system. In general water injection and mixed methanol injection not only permits advancing timing, it is required due to the slower initial flame front (though late stage reactions are sped up) during combustion. This is contrary to many nitrous techniques so great care and skill must be employed to find the appropriate balance when trying to use both water and nitrous to make significant power gains. When adding 5%-7% water to fuel without leaning rich fueling levels - a degree or two of advance will produce almost the same power result as without water injection (leaning slightly will increase the power output). This is good for people who have engines tuned for high octane or race fuel but on a daily basis want to use lower octane grades. This is purely an economic use of water injection - power use requires fuel and timing tuning. The more boost you are running and the more fuel you are replacing with water injection the more dangerous it becomes to run a constant pressure / static flow water injection system. In order to prevent bogging down the engine at lower boost loads the flow of water is less and less likely to be sufficient for your full boost application in these static setups. The state of your air/fuel mixture and timing after performance tuning for water injection or mixed methanol injection will be more than sufficient to destroy your motor if the water injection fails while under load. The responsible user will take measures to ensure adequate water is in supply and flowing during high power usage. Ideally along with a fail safe that will cut boost if a fault in the system occurs. At a minimum warning lights for water level, water pressure and water flow should be employed. Ideally triggers that close all boost solenoids in automatic response to faults would be employed by high end systems. Have fun

Water injection (and water mixtures like mixed methanol injection) has been around for decades. Its sole purpose is to suppress engine knock. Keeping in mind that most engine knock is caused by uncontrolled and/or unintended combustion of the fuel mixture. Water with it high specific and latent heat is an excellent tool for bringing charge temperatures and combustion back into control when charge and cylinder temperatures or compression get too high for the fuel being used. Water is generally introduced to the induction system after the turbo-charger and before the throttle body. It may be injected pre- or post-intercooler or both. The injection of water into the induction charge will immediately absorb heat from the charge thereby increasing its density. Evaporation of the water at this point is unlikely or very minor. The induction charge can at a maximum reach 100% relative humidity and will stabilize at an equilibrium state that is governed by temperature of the charge exiting the turbo and the relative humidity of the ambient air. At full saturation the induction charge will have a significantly reduced temperature somewhere between the ambient temperature and the temperature of the injected water. This heat absorption is achieved primarily through the water's specific heat very little vaporization will occur at this point. The boiling point of water is higher than most charges exiting the turbo and the cooling effect of the water will reduce even the hottest charges without significant vaporization and never beyond the point of saturation and equilibrium. The effect of water on the induction charge will be somewhat greater in drier climates where more water can be evaporated into the air. However this should not be taken as an indication that it is not useful in more humid climates. Once the induction charge gets heated it will always have room to accept the evaporated water whether the initial relative humidity was high or low - and this evaporation will always absorb heat from the induction charge. As the water absorbs heat the droplet sizes will decrease and the surface area of the water droplets will increase. Any additional volume from this reaction will be more than made up for by the reduction of the charge temperature and its resulting increased density. Water is not displacing the volume or weight of air in the induction charge and actually working to increase the volume and weight of air that reaches the cylinder. Sizeable droplets of water will reach the cylinder with significant heat absorbing potential intact. The cooling of the induction charge is the first way that water injection suppresses knock and permits more air-fuel mixture to enter the cylinder. During the intake stroke as the induction charge passes the valve the charge picks up heat from the heated surface of the intake valve. Additionally the effort of sucking the charge past the valve transfers heat to the charge as well. The presence of water in the induction charge absorbs this heat more readily with a lower increase in the temperature of the charge. Remember that it takes more heat to increase the temperature of the water present in the charge. Air and fuel alone in the charge increases in temperature much more readily and rapidly as it absorbs the heat from the valve and effort exerted to bring the charge into the cylinder. Once the charge enters the cylinder, water in the induction charge following the exit of the super heated exhaust gases (1500+ degrees) begins to immediately cool the surfaces within the cylinder including the cylinder walls, piston head, combustion chamber, valves and spark plug tip. This cooling will have its most dramatic effect on any possible hot spots the coolant system has not adequately addressed. Surface temperatures will be significantly reduced by the water even more so than the extra fuel that was previously being used to cool the cylinder surfaces. With twice the specific heat and six times the latent heat of gasoline, 1/6 as much water by weight is necessary to fully replace the heat absorption of the decreased gasoline in the induction charge. Richer than 12:1 none of that extra fuel is being burned in combustion and the extra fuel robs significant power while serving as a poor coolant. Since the amount of water being added is only a fraction of the amount of the decrease in gasoline there is actually more air and as a result more oxygen in the induction charge for additional combustion to take place. The cooling of the cylinder area surfaces permits additional air/fuel mixture to enter the cylinder thereby increasing volumetric efficiency. The combination of decreased liquids in the induction charge combined with the increased VE from in-cylinder cooling disproves the myth that water injection will displace air in the induction charge or reduce the amount of fuel that will be burned in combustion. During this process the continued absorption of heat will decrease the water droplets further increasing their surface area and volume but full vaporization accompanied by the resulting 1700 times increase in the volume of the water will not have occurred at this point. The water will still reach equilibrium prior to this point, albeit in a hotter state. The absorption of the heat gain while actually entering the cylinder and the cooling of the cylinder area and volume is the second way that water suppresses knock - the cylinder and the charge is much better prepared for a controlled burn during combustion. By this time water has lodged itself between the air/fuel mixture although the percent of water to the mixture is only around 1%. Though the ratio is small the water further suppresses any remaining tendency of the fuel to pre-ignite by lodging itself between the air and fuel during compression. Before actual combustion occurs the water works against auto-ignition by continuing to absorb the heat generated during compression. Water is a byproduct of combustion it is the chemical reaction of oxygen with the hydrogen freed from the hydrocarbon chains during combustion. How could the injection of additional present water before combustion contribute further to the combustion process? This is where it gets a bit complex and I will try to do the best I can. During early combustion when the fastest reactions occur the effect of the water in the mixture is to cause a more controlled and stable flame front. The freeing of hydrogen and carbon to combine with oxygen has to work around the present water to form OH radicals and CO. By slowing this early combustion process there is further suppression of the potential for the mixture to burn too fast and contribute to knock. Later in the combustion process slower and more complex reactions occur. The formation of OH radicals is very fast and interferes with the completion of the combustion process to form CO2 from the first step creation of CO. It is during this phase of combustion where present water helps to complete the slower reaction to complete the formation of CO2 since water is about the only way to complete the oxidation of CO. The additional present water actually speeds this reaction which also happens to be when as much of two thirds of the energy from carbon combustion is released. It is apparent that in any hydrocarbon oxidation process CO is the primary product and forms in substantial amounts. However, substantial experimental evidence indicates the oxidation of CO to CO2 comes late in the reaction scheme. The conversion to CO2 is retarded until all the original fuel and intermediate hydrocarbon fragments have been consumed. Performance tuning that involves fuel dumping necessitates overly advanced timing resulting in timing induced knock (and as has been experienced by others engine destruction) because the significant power release from combustion is delayed to the point where MBT is very late while waiting for the excess fuel is broken down during the extended initial stages of combustion. In upgraded turbo applications this becomes extremely apparent as the increased air flow necessitates ever higher fuel flows to maintain these supposedly safe AFRs of 11:1 and richer. More simply consider the following - what power enhancing purpose would excess fuel serve once all the oxygen in the induction charge has been utilized in combustion? It can not and will not burn, Glassman has shown that it even interferes with the complete combustion of the fuel that is burnt. It is only useful as a coolant and most fuels make poor coolants. As illustrated below water injection can actually help reduce maximum cylinder pressures while increasing BMEP. This is because a properly mixed AFR of 12.5:1 accompanied by water injection increases the rate of the combustion reaction exactly when it is desirable to do so during the oxidation of CO => CO2. SEE ATTACHED GRAPH

We have done 1 NA-T with the intercooler pipe going through the wing but changed this a week or so later as we were not happy going from 3inch to 2 1/2 and also using the route we do means less angles so better air flow. Currently the injectors are stock although we have upgraded the fuel pump ready for larger injectors to go in and fuelling is controlled by a SAFC11. Now before we start the whole Oh my god the engine is going to blow thing please take into account that we again setup these cars on a rolling road to ensure that everything is ok and set the car to a slightly lower boost pressure in Jennys cars case 6.3psi. Also we do not just bolt on the turbo, the head is taken off and a 2mm headgasket is used in place of the NA stock 0.6mm one also the fuel pump is changed as is the fuel filter and pump ECU.

To make it longer would mean two things. 1: A smaller filter would have to be used. 2: it would put the filter right behind the headlight. Both the above could have been done and would have been ok but with the filter where we have put it along with the ducting shows on testing to produce a 4 deg lower charge temp than stuffed up behind the headlight. As with all our work testing before release to the customer is paramount and if the filter had proved to be better in the stock position then that is where we would have put it. We are working on an intake design at the moment that will move the filter completely out of the enigne bay, all we are waiting on is the company that are designing the filters to come back with test results.

Bromy, this is not a boost logic kit. The tube manifold and pipe work is all custom made at our workshop. Also the picture does not show that the intake is protected from the engine heat and has ducting up from below the car, giving much colder air than even the stock position did. Perhaps it might be an idea for people to see the finshed item in the flesh before making assumed comments. Jenny hope you are enjoying the power bet you are looking forward to the 200 mile mark ENJOY !!!!

Hi Neo, Have a look at this thread and if intrested give us a call http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=64429

WOW you really like it then

Any takers

That will be cool, would like it before the end of september also it must be blue (Sam say's so) and all the cluster must work Also sorry about hijacking your thread darkrider666 will have to put a few free extras on your car now.

Not brake cleaner just good old fashioned imagination and the will to do something diffrent. Have had the engine and box lying around for god knows how many years so might as well use it. And Jezzy would you like to donate an old knackered NA for the project ( I will let you play with it)