Paul Booth

There's got to be a load sensing un-latch function involved somewhere but whether it's in the switch or a relay panel remains to be seen. if no one comes up with the definitive answer, I'll look at the schematics (you've got my curiosity aroused). BTW, why?

As per FSE, I'm not going to wait until the end of this thread before I ask: Although I think I have a good idea, why doesn't someone explain in technicolour, what a dump-valve does.

Sorry, I forgot the :biggrin: icon. I think we covered the issue of sleeving the braided hoses when we hammered this issue and the problem of the braiding being damaged by flying chippings. Once the braid is damaged the teflon hose has no strength, i.e., the strength is all in the braiding. Hence, it's a given that a rubber over-sleeve is advisable when fitting braided flexibles. I thought you were referring to my taking Rich's hoses up to Manchester with me.

Duh? This is an RX7 site yes/no?

Erm. You mean with my trusty home shrink wrap kit? http://www.stopstart.fsnet.co.uk/smilie/Reverend.gif (Edited by Paul Booth at 12:21 pm on July 19, 2001)

I want to go on record and thank Rich Jenkins. He'd kept his original hoses and is loaning them to us for the purposes of getting the engineering specs drawn up. So I will be able to take a set of hoses with me after all. http://www.stopstart.fsnet.co.uk/mica/monksit.gif

I seem to remember when F1 cars were turbo'd, they experimented with burning fuel in the exhaust turbine to create a low pressure burn there and keep the turbo spinning at a reasonable speed, under certain conditions. I'm seriously thinking about going back to what I understand: polished ports, high lift cams with loads of overlap and a BIG bunch of bananas.

Aren't there any issues around volume x surface area ratio with respect to the exhaust gases and pipe sizes, i.e., two smaller pipes have a much lower volume x surface area ratio and there's a much higher heat loss with 2 tubines.

As of next week(ish), I own a set of UK brakes and hoses. If Rich is right that will make them OK for J-spec cars too. I'm going to ship the hoses up to H-S for them to create a spec sheet and set a 'shop' price. Hopefully, this will mean a resolution over the next 2-3 weeks. Buggrit! Now I need wheels. (Edited by Paul Booth at 12:18 pm on July 18, 2001)

Much obliged Phil. I hesitate to suggest anyone takes off a hose. It's a real hassle having to drain the system and then refill and bleed it afterwards; hence my not doing it with mine in the 30 minutes I will have to speak with the guys there. If no one else steps forward with a couple of hoses, I have one last route to go. I sorta know someone with a full set of UK hoses not yet fitted to the car but he's a bit slow to respond to email and may not get back to me before tomorrow.

Well 75% of the work is A1, particularly where they removed traces of my measles spot repairs. Their new paint onto the remaining stone chips is a bit delicate. I guess if you use Toyota's repair kit (big blobs) and get Chipsaway to tidy it up, that might work. Hey, what do you expect these days for under £100? Sad that isn't it.

Don't use the glaze before Chipsaway have been. They didn't clean of the Autoglym resin polish fully and my stone-chip repair is starting to shed.

Interesting point: which has most net effect, the lower inertia in the twin system and therefore faster spin-up rate, or the lower energy availble in the exhaust gases and hence slower spin-up rate.

I just got off the phone with my local independent and he can't find flexibles listed for the Supra; must be dealer only. My Toyota dealer has different parts listed for UK and J-spec. Worse than that, although the rears are the same, the front hoses are handed, i.e. left and right are different part numbers. Regardless of that, they would have to come from Toyota and delivery is not guaranteed any time soon. Bottom line: if we can't find someone who has an old/new set they can loan us for a week, we're goosed for this trip. Richard Jenkins is going tio have a look in his garage and failing that..........

Could someone commenting on Ian's posting explain what the FSE does before simply stating any preference please?

Word from the body shop is machine glaze is easier and does a better job.

Definately, it will look good in that Trust A-Pillar Guage pod too. make sure you get 60mm guages. Trust A-Pillar Guage pod? http://www.stopstart.fsnet.co.uk/Sounds/hell.wav

Brilliant Martin, best yet.

Share! Come on Francesca, get that keyboard going and enter the info.

Can I ask how much and where from (off-line email, if you want) please?

Wow. Talk about withdrawal symptoms. The BBS was down. Rich, have you got one old front and one old rear lying around. If so, I'll drive down tomorrow and borrow them, if I may?

Not Halfords then? http://www.stopstart.fsnet.co.uk/smilie/jesterlol.gif

From where would one obtain such a useful device?

OK. So now we just need to know about the front calliper fittings. Are we the only ones on here today?

So now we just need to know about the fitting into the front and rear callipers, i.e., same thread, length, etc.