Paul Booth

You're a good man Stu. I was panicking about that and had visions of my Supe coming back with a pink front bumper. Anecdotally, a guy I knew years ago, who did bodywork on cars, always wanted to paint a car vivid pink. This was post hippy era and pre-fashion statement era. He always said, if he could find someone who'd let him do it, he'd do it for free. NO! He's not painting my front bumper.

Where do I find the colour code on my Supe please? Body-shop man is taking my f-bumper tomorrow and it would help immensely if I could give him the colour code for my Supe. He's taking the petrol cap too, so's he can get a good match but it would help to start with the right paint.

Using the stock IC pipework to fit an induction system in the driver's side intake is fine for when I get my BIG IC. In the meantime, I was wondering if I could route a Blitz induction system (for example) into the stock airbox to give it access to ambient air. Who's played with the adjustable road miller? AAAASSSSHHHHHHHHhhhhhhhhh!

Now see it's like this. If I had any switches or lights which gave me a clue, finding it wouldn't have been such a surprise. No switches and no lights. Next..... This is going to be a fly by pant's seat problem, I can feel it in my bones. The advice on using the pipework for the stock IC addressed my issue re getting cool air, I think. I'm still curious as to whether you could use the stock filter casing as the casing for an induction intake.

1. Got my nose off and stripped down ready for a plastic welding of mounting holes (Bwuuhahhhaaaahhaaa! chance to play) a filling and a painting. Well it appears I have one of them thar powered air dams on the front of my Supe (no, I didn't know I had one but it does explain Tim's distant mutterings as I was trying to get into it and leave). Well, another gadget to bugger up. I guess I'd better know how it works, now I know I've got one. What's it supposed to do and how do I test to see if it does that? 2. On another point. After I took the nose off, I could really see that there's small fronted, but very think, radiator that looks very much as though it's in the air system (front right side, behind indicator). Is it supposed to be an intercooler? 3. Any reason why the standard air box, with it's front mounted air ram can't be modified to take the business end of an induction kit?

Unless you start doing PID operations with your outputs (now there's a thought... Mr Betts, where the H' are you?), it basically resolves itself down to interpolating intermediate values in a mapping table, e.g. very simply: input value x.ddd indexes output table y[x] and y[x+1]; op = y[x] + (y[x+1] - y[x]) * 0.ddd, i.e. simple interpolation. OK, you're outputs are modified by multiple inputs but you can either: calculate the output values against known curves (think this is what Toyota are doing) or use n dimensional mapping tables. The latter is easy to implement and easy to modify. Now if you applied a PID transform to your output driver you'd theoretically end up with a MUCH faster and smoother transition to the desired condition. Now this is where Mr Betts comes in, he's a DSP man. I'm going to send him an email.

Thx. Did you remove the disc and disassemble the handbrake before you attacked the backplate?

Pretty accurate description Ash, thanks. At least body-shop man, using your instructions, had it apart in 10-15 minutes.

ECU issue not looking good guys. Discussed piccies with some heavy hardware friends I respect and they went (sound of inrush of air) "all custom bud", to a man. So, next job is to lean on Japanese friends in Tokyo and see if I can get honourable spec. sheets on devices. Mr Betts, what criteria did you use for your piggy-back box? Drop me a mail, by all means.

Nice body-shop man came round this p.m. and whipped out my headlights and 95% of bumper mounting bolts in under 10 minutes (thank gawd he's gonna put them back too, I missed half of where the bits came from). Anyway, wonderful as that was..... I've got this funny metal bar thingy wot goes across the front behind the bumper and its gorra motor at the right hand end. "What the feck is that", he asked, understandably. Now if it's what I think it is, I didn't think they started adding them until much later than my '93 Aerotop TT. Can someone enlighten me please?

With what shall I cut it, Delilah, Delilah, with what....? I'm still going to need those torque setting for later on, when I've trashed my discs with Carbon pads.

Well that's what I thought when Peugot told me that the reason it wasn't stopping very well, about 6 months ago, was that the brake vacuum pump was goosed. In fact I asked them why it was there. They told me that the delay in building a decent vacuum from going off-boost was too long for consistent brakes. Hey, they were paying for it under the warranty so my interest stopped at that point. Intuitively, I would assume the principle used by Toyota to be effective but we all know what people who make assumptions deserve, don't we? Hence my question. If I can make my car stop better, all the better for when I start to make it go quicker.

That probably explains why the brakes on my 406 are 100x better than my Supe (Turbo + vacuum pump & reservoir)

I just received an email. See if you can guess why I thought someone was taking the p155. Turns out it was genuine but, as usual, the automotive industry pays peanuts.

As I wasn't the one to raise brakes in this thread..... I could probably answer my question by lifting the bonnet but anyway, I'm already sat at my PC. Most turbo vehicles have to have a vacuum pump to drive the brake servo and I've recent experience of the huge difference it makes if that pump is not operating 100%, on another car. Does the Supe have a vacuum pump/reservoir or does it achieve the same goal by other means?

That idea entered my head, I have to say. The idea of taking a knife to it hurts me more than it. I'll wait for Ash to appear. AAAAASSSSSSSSHhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!

I thought I'd check the true condition of my discs, so I removed the rear offside rim. Looks OK, despite my earlier assessment that it needed replacing; doesn't even need a skim before abusing it with Carbon. Well, might as well remove those annoying backplates while I'm here. Hang on! don't want to remove callipers and hub unless I know the torque settings and which parts are mandatory replacement (e.g. retaining nuts) to put it back. Now I have a Supe sitting with it's legs in the air in my garage. I'd like to get the backplates off before putting those wheels back on. Who has the data please? Any special tools required, it looks pretty standard stuff?

BTW, the original plate holder leaves a slight flattening of the leading edge. You should be able to get this out with a hot-air gun and gentle pressure from behind (or so I'm told by body-shop person; I haven't had the b411s to try it yet).

Aha! a chance to try plastic welding. AAASSSSSSHHHhhhhhhh........ Where do I get the plastic welder from?

I wonder if ChipsAway would have the brass to attempt my reg' plate mounting holes or they only do minot surface marks?

You've had a long hot day? It took me just 1h 15m to get to Regents Park from home and then a further 1h to get the remaining 1 mile into "The City" this a.m.. Coming back it took me 1h 15m to get the 1 mile from "The Shitty" to Euston and just when I was thinking "right, now just another 15 minutes and I'm on the M40", it took me another 2 h to get home. Boy did I pee off those people playing at military convoys in the outside lane with a clear centre and inside lane. One Volvo driver (S60) tried to ram me from behind but he couldn't catch me. I don't normally do things like that but it had been long, hot and tedious and they were doing a 10 car nose-tail convoy at 72 MPH up the hill towards OxF*rd . BTW, why do people driving MPVs, in the opposite direction on 'A' roads, flash you when you've 2nd gear'ed passed the slow vehicle in front by a good margin and been back against the curb for some 300 meters? I always give them a BIG smile :biggrin:, wave and pretend I think they know me.

Can someone correct me here. I was always led to understand that cars had to be fitted with a catalytic converter from new if built after "some date", but it is not a legal requirement to refit one if the original comes to then end of its natural life. I.e., the law covers manufacture not refitting. (Edited by Paul Booth at 8:11 pm on July 5, 2001)

I'm looking to have the original mounting holes in my front bumper filled and then the whole thing blown in. My neighbour, the body-shop man, says it's a nightmare 'cos it's RED. Red apparently 'attracts' the sun, in his words, and not only fades but shows up the new paint. He was talking about fading the colour into the adjacent panels to geet it near 100%, i.e., the bonnet, the wings. Yeuch!

Whoa! plastic welding; a new gadget. Now I'm looking for somewhere to try it. Now what can I accidentally break.........

Oy! Where's the b****y oil cooler? Never mind all these distractions. Underseal?????? I dread to ask what you're hiding?