wkdtime

Khan not Kahn:p

Doug, thank's for the update and thank you for keeping us posted all the way bud, your a star!

Sky quoted me happy too;)

No point in adjusting it, it will just re adjust it self from what I understand. You need to find out why it's idling low instead of trying to mask it dude.

Paul give it a go anyway, I did and they quoted me the cheapest out of Aplan, Adrian Flux, Lancaster. Just make sure you read the proposal and all the paper work.

IACV valve possibly, have you tried the TTC hose method conversion which practically by passes the sequential system? If not then run a search for it and carry out the switch, it takes 5minutes.

I'll leave that to Ray to answer.

Think you'll find that it's no longer available.....I think:)

Anything else I should be aware of when insuring a single?

Been ringing around quite a few places and below is what I have been quoted. Age:26 Spec: T67, 500HP, all Mods declared. No points or claims NCB: 3 Years Post Code: TW14 Cover: Fully comp. HIC, Agreed Value of £14k, Price: £1600 A Plan. No agreed value, £500 Excess, Price: £985 Adrian Flux, Agreed value, £300 Excess, Price: £1900 Sky Insurance, No agreed value, £500 Excess, Price £981 All of the above cover like for like mods. A Plan and Sky both went to Ensign to get me my quote. Look's like I'll be going for Sky, Ill double check all the paper work before signing anything. What swayed me towards Sky was that they knew what they were talking about and asked all the right questions and have access to the forum and have viewed the pics and spec of my car before hand, I was very happy with the way I was dealt with. I spoke to David Fleming. TBH after reading some of the threads lately I didn't have a good preception of them but thought I'd give them a try anyway and I'm glad I did, great customer service. Anything else I should be aware of before signing the docs?

I read about that, It's why I just want to install what I really need for ther car.

But are you still running the same oil Toyota reccomended?

I don't ever plan to use it on track Alex, the readings are taken from the sump BTW. Just dont want to throw more money at the car for something that I dont really need.

Cheers dude......but do I really need an oil cooler? BTW the readings were taken from the sump where it's slighly cooler I believe.

Hi guys, Im running a T67 with 500HP, I always use Silkolene Pro s 10W50 and my oil temps on long sprints are around 97 Degs. on the gauge, when Dyno'd at dans it peaked at 97 Degs. My question is, Do I need an oil cooler? (I don't do track's) If so, Is it a must that I should fit an oil relocation too (I'd like to keep the oil filter at the OEM position) Regards, -Wkd

JJ is basically the width of the wheel, the offset is how far they will sit out or sit in from and towards the base of the hub, E.g, a 20" wheel with a jj of 10" and offset of +25 20" wheel with a jj of 10" and offset of +30 From the above two fitments, the +25 offset fitment will sit 5 mm closer to the arch than the +30 offset fitment. The lower the offset number, the further the wheel will sit away from the hub and thus closer to the arch, i.e a more flush look. Personally dude I'd stick with 19's. See my pics here of some 19's with offset's to give a nice wide stance look for the rears. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=109006

They will fit dependant on offsets, if the offset's are not too low they'll fit with no arch work required at all. People always seem to think that with 20" wheel's you'll need arch work, the fact is, it's all down to the offsets and widths, e.g 17" 10jj rears with an offset of +25 will rub and foul the arche's (Dependant on drop) even though they're just 17's

Brill idea

500HP and 500 lbs/ft Torque from an NA engine??? Is that possible (refering to the torque figure being so close to the BHP figure)

Price's have dropped quite a bit, if your after a quick sale then you may have to reduce it further, if not, then just wait and I'm pretty sure someone will snap it up at that price.

With 9.5" rears I wouldnt push the offset's any lower than +32's (Near enough flush look with the arch) otherwise it would rub if you slap on some 265's. With the fronts i'd aim for an offset of +35 and above.

Lmao:d

Just having a discussion with one of the guys at work, Does anyone know how a computer generates a Unique PC ID which some certain softwares require in order to generate a License code? Is it dependant on the motherboard? Any suggestions?

It may throw you out due to your login 'timing out' while your typing away for an excessive length of time, I may be wrong though.

http://www.maxpower.co.uk/images/IMG_0001.jpg http://www.maxpower.co.uk/images/IMG_0016(1).jpg http://www.maxpower.co.uk/images/IMG_0451.jpg http://www.maxpower.co.uk/images/IMG_0267.jpg Actually it's an MR-S dolled up, not bad i say;)