neo1

got to be either a Bugatti EB110 or a Ferrari Mythos (Ferrari concept) or the Calaway Corvette Sledgehammer. All from 89 i think

Remove your seatbelt buckle from the door sill before closing the door

I was shocked when i went there. £13k for a stock TT with the wrong wheels, no stereo, fag burn in the seat and a huge chunk missing from the dash skin. Avoid AT ALL COSTS

you have no idea how painfull it was to remove myself from the seat I fell in love with it just for the sound alone. I was so worried about damaging or scratching anything or finger prints on the paint. I felt guilty sitting on the seats in case i creased the leather £300k Ouch If i ever was able to afford something of that nature there is no question it would be this car.... I have been in a lot of exotics but the GT instantly won me over.... that V10 sounds like its electronic.... Completely stunning. And to the owner 'who shall remain a secret' "thank you for not being a normal exotic owner and doing 40 everywhere just to get attention".... This guy porperly let her rip.

Different ball game. Not even going to bother going into it.

Went out in one last night. Speechless

Oh... no pins. I think they look cheep. However, i shoud get some though

I have a Stout bonnet and it stays well put at any speeds, i have taken it to nearly 200 on a runway. the only time it ever concerns me is in bad air behind other car, then the the forces are un-balanced and the bonnet moves a little due to extra force from the engine bay not being balanced by the lack of force caused by the drag of the car in front.

@194 mph.... I wouldnt call it accellerating so much as just about creeping.... you need a lot of raod at that speed.

that cheeky bugger said the whole hub had to come off ! what a sod. Not happy. Would name and shame them as they are a well known supra specialist :thumbdown Is there anyone that has not sold out !!

I think you may be onto something here. Is it possible to remove the driveshaft without touching the hub assembly ? Ie: undo the diff end bolts, then undo the main hub bolt and slide the whole lot out of the hub towards the diff ? that way i could fit the new deflector and slide it all back in and 'bobs your uncle' ! Can anyone tell me if this can be done ?

My car hit 194 before i got a panic attack about losing my stout bonnet. Verified by my GPS system (that as far as i know is correct) unlike speedos that go way out at that speed. I Have a TRD diff and 18", dont know if this helps get a couple of mph quicker or not. It was on a proper runway, clear day probably a 5-10mph cross / tail wind .

It is the METAL part i am ranting on about that covers the ABS Rotor ring ! Just when you say flimsy..... i start thinking of Rubber

Oh and thank you Leett for the kind offer anyway

Hi all, have got one from Toyota £13 I now have to pay £200 to have the hub removed and a stipid deflector fitted and then put back on the car...... all because i need the car for Saturday and dont have time to do it myself I'm not having much luck !!!

Hi, does anyone know the Toyota part number for the NEAR SIDE REAR abs rotor dust deflector shown in the drawing below. Its for a J-Spec 6Spd TT Any help would be fantastic Blue arrow pointing to it.

Sorry, my mistake.... First thing it says is installation is reverse of removal. Again, thanks Tim for posting these instructions so quickly on a Sunday.

Thanks Tim, this was very usefull info. Can anyone confirm that the Torque for the drive shaft end nut i am on about is 213 ft / lbs (this is the recomended removal torque.... Sometimes i know that the FITTING Torques can differ) Cheers, Stuart.

Hi, can anyone tell me the TORQUE setting for the near side rear wheel main hub assembly nut (the one on the end of the driveshaft with the split pin and retainer) It was only had tight when i checked it lbs / ft setting if anyone has it

And if the stock sequential system was rebuilt by HKS out in Japan ? What then ? Just wondering as each and every car is different and i know so many people that say 'it cant be done' or 'its impossable' and yet there is always someone that proves them wrong. Just because something has not been seen does not mean it doesnt exist.... I have a friend with a TOTALLY stock looking MR2 with the same old CT20-B setup.... dyno plot states 480 Bhp and the feeling of your face being ripped off when you are in the car supports the dyno plot.... However, there are some totally full of S**t people out there so your probably right People chuck Bhp about like it means nothing. big D**k syndrome im afraid

do you know if the ABS rotor is a seperate part number or does it come with the shaft and CV joint. Anyone got any ideas

I was going to run on the day but now i have my drive shaft issue i guess its game over Not a happy bunny.

I think if it hits £1 / Ltr "and i'm sure it will" The government are in for a full on s**t storm from everybody, not just truckers and other high fuel consumers. I think that maybe then, and only then, full the prices fall through the floor. But i'm sure the robbing bas**rds will get it out of us one way or another.

Thanks for all your replys and offers. Its a J spec 6spd TT. Nick, when i get home i will send you the chassis number. I am stripping it down on Saturday so i can check everything for play and find out exactly what is wrong. If you roll with the clutch pedal down in first gear at about two miles per hour then lift the clutch pedal to move away just slightly quicker, there is a definate click and a little play from than near side rear drive train..... Im going to check the subframe, coilovers, everything to make 100% sure its the CV joint before i order anything. Again, thanks very much One last thing, where are these ABS rotors ? i have never noticed.... or am i just being blind.