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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

matt

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Everything posted by matt

  1. Dodgy SLD .......... or the wiring to it.
  2. Its a serial connection on a lead connected to the unit .......plugs straight in to the laptop
  3. Yeah!! My front indicators and marker lights are done this way....
  4. Just spray a coat of silver on an orange bulb .......... Works fine
  5. Oh, and the rear spats are stuck along the top edge ..... could be tricky to remove whatever they were stuck on with?
  6. You'll need the standard trims to replace the existing ones, but they use the same holes. Can I ask why they are being removed ......... ?
  7. Or your hand was in the way?
  8. I'm pretty sure the door loom also has connectors at the bottom of the a-pillar. So the choice is yours................ feed them thro' the door, or pull thro' the pillar.
  9. Keep OD on , but use Manu mode............ then when you need 4th gear , switch Manu off. Switch manu on again when you need 3rd. Easy huh?! I made it easier by moving the Manu and OD switches on to the steering wheel .........
  10. Adjust them at the shoes.... thro a hole in the drum/disc It'll make sense when the disc's off
  11. I have had the same problem on both soops now...... one due to a faulty/shitty converter the other down to shoddy wiring. Best way to check is to put back to stock . If that fixes it , connect the converter using solder not scotchlocks and tidy up any suspect wiring......
  12. Sounds like a busted active spoiler. I've got one if you decide to replace....... Maybe just the switch has been removed? There should also be a silver ecu behind the radio and of course the associated wiring..
  13. They are nearer £400 ......... easy enough to fit
  14. You!? In somebody elses car!?With your reputation!? /Fast Show mode off/
  15. Fair enough , it just seems odd that it would start to leak just from being removed and replaced.... Is it just a bolt to unscrew on the HKS then? I ask , because theres a threaded stud and locknut on my Apexi. So you have to undo the locking nut, then screw in the stud to '' tighten'' I guess you could just go by trial and error, if nobody comes up with the answer
  16. Sorry , don't know how to adjust it. Its unlikely to have just adjusted itself, so unless you have tampered with it, I'd be checking the hoses/ connections. When the pipes to the stock bov on mine got hard and brittle , it did the same whistling noise at similar boost. The air was exiting between the hose/bov , the hardened rubber and shitty clamps were replaced and all was well.
  17. matt

    heating

    Theres another heater control box thing on top of the stereo..... Thats the one I usually forget
  18. I'm pretty sure Terry knows that ..............Is it not a case of clamping the signal at 74** rpm and then just reving 500rpm or so more to get across the line? Obviously the ecu will be providing only fuel for the 7*** clamped signal.
  19. matt

    Fuel pump

    Does it have to be a UK spec? If you're upgrading , might as well go with a Walbro for around 90 quid.... If you're looking to replace a duffer, I have a j'spec pump you can have v cheap
  20. I had no issues at all with an HKS S-type fitted...... thro' hotter weather than we've had lately. Get the AC system checked again?
  21. 96411-43500 PNC#11431B is the only core plug on the block that I could find on EPC Best get the parts guy to double check it suits your model
  22. I'd agree if we were talking about a cam belt......... but a common or garden drive belt????? You serious??? I could buy five for the price of an OEM If you're worried buy two ..... and keep one in the boot for a spare
  23. In theory you could leave the turbo's manifold at al in situ. You'd have to disconnect the first cat, oil lines, waterlines and vac hoses plus the support struts for the turbos. It would be pretty damn heavy, for sure ....... so you'd need a mate to help lift the head off with stuff still attached You could probably leave most of the inlet on too .... I wouldn't do it this way , but I guess it could be done FWIW , it took me just over 2hrs to get the turbos off. Although I had the correct tools and didn't encounter any worn nuts/bolts......if you get a rounded nut on one of the more inaccessible exhaust/turbo nuts you could add hours, if not days to the job. Don't start it without good quality well fitting tools........ oh and wear gloves!
  24. I got one from my local accessory shop for about 15quid........ non stock, but got it the next day
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