matt

Keep looking ........ I paid only slightly more for a 1 owner since import, ex JIC GZ. Assuming you're talking about an auto?

It just means an ignition switched supply. Get the multi meter out

Yes

Try Merittyres .... theres a branch in Wycombe and one at Chalfont? My last set were cheaper than 190quid Sorry no numbers

Isn't charcoal , carbon?

Sounds like the front seal could be the issue. They usually go after a real caning......... Got a boost controller?

Wear gloves!

So where is the oil leaking from?? Damaged?? depends if you're talking about the low level warning light or the low pressure warning light coming on... FWIW , when I blew a crankseal at rockingham it would pour oil out at anything above 2k revs. I limped home at sub 2k revs stopping every 20 miles to top up the oil when the low level light came on. The car was fine after I replaced seal ... however the low oil pressure light never came on. If you've done the same , you'll probably be fine. If the low pressure light even flickered..... I'd be getting the sump off (at the garages expense) for a looksee

So , I'm being pedantic by saying that a better description of the problem other than 'its annoying' ??! Fuck you then.......... diagnose it yourself. Twat

If they have the electrically adjustable bits you can turn the white plastic bolt to raise them. Or wire in a switch?

You're gonna have to do better than that:p

Not exactly what you're looking for .... but this will get him so far with plenty of hand holding. Obviously skip the SD card bit:innocent:

How about trying different pressures to see how you like the feel?

I think the recommended sizes for the Lexus GS rims (same size as yours) are 245/40 and 275/35

You really need bigger injectors and a fuel computer to tweak with. Although some have just upped fuel pressure with an adjustable reg... Above the fuel cut limit you are relying on the stock system running rich at the top end...... some are fine like this.

I'm using 4.3 ..... 5v is the maximum the stock sensor will put out. If you have large injectors and are using a conversion figure the ECU may never see 4.3v. So you may not need a fuel cut setting? Can I have a look at your map?

If you are staying with the stock injectors, don't bother with the emanage. It will only scare you when you see the injectors running at 100% duty cycle at anything over 1 bar! If you are upgrading the injectors, then its a good bit of kit. I didn't bother with the E-01 either......... mainly cos I don't know where to put it and I don't like things stuck on the dash!! Although, I saw CJ's today and thats hidden away nicely

I see ...... could be tricky then!

Which protocol does the soop use??

This anygood? You'll obviously need a connector/ converter to serial....... but should be easy enough

If that is an accurate figure........ you can rule out the fcd.

You are forgetting about the MANU button. Stick in MANU ... approach corner in 3rd, brake left footed,keeping an ever so slight load on the gas, into 2nd smooth as a smooth thing .............. Its the MANU mode that makes the autobox IMO

What kind of FCD did you fit? It's possible you are still hitting the raised fuel cut .... Not necessarily a bad thing , but you may be able to remove it altogether if thats what you want. What boost are you reaching? I've recently fitted an e-manage and have found that I'm running 100% duty cycle at 1 bar with 440 injectors...... so be wary of higher boost, with out any form of fuel cut

Is it an import? if so , my money's on the SLD/Speedo converter........

Turbo timers also cut the engine if you apply the brake. My guess is your foot is still on the brake?