Stevie Boy

Have they quoted you for the mapping? or is it the old piece of string length of time? If your spending a few quid with them a lot of garages will be nice enough to come to some sort of "all-in" price compromise with the final bill, as long as they haven't under quoted themselves!

What Mr Wilson did?? I'm sure he had his reasons.

That Phone Jacker character is "Looking to buy the HUD or is that HD tv.........":) ......I'll grab me coat.

Which trader's offering you £9500 trade in if you don't mind me asking? Sounds like a good deal, if you don't get any interest i'd be inclined to take them up on that offer for even quicker transaction.

When most main dealers charge around £100+vat an hr for labour, £50 an hr's pretty good for a private garage these days! I suspect they're rounding up to 3hrs to make it worth there while. I reckon the lower the labour rate you'll find, the longer they'll probably quote to do the job.

One of my pet hates is when someone has gone to te expense/trouble of painting a car and scrimped at removing glass/seals/handles etc and just masked around them usually quite badly. As Dragonball says you end up with ridges and give a month or 2 and a few washes you'll soon see flaking or paint lifting around these areas. I remember quite a few years ago i read 3M had developed a special masking tape with a wedge shaped foam edge for bodyshops to use on seals. Which would go under the seal to lift it from the body so the final paint edge would end up under the seal itself and thus save taking them out, guess it didn't take-off still seeing loadsa ropey mask up jobs these days! I guess if the seals are narrow and not particularly soft/flexible like on the Supra would be a royal PITA to stick on so who would be arsed.

But he's not actually getting boost cut "exclamation warning, engine check light, etc" is that correct? Which he would do if he was hitting the overboost cut? The rpm is limited to 5100rpm after 10-15mins of driving as far as i could understand from whats been said.

Not sure it's a very good idea having no pressure relief on throttle release, don't see it limiting rpm but get a stock item on there at least.

Even if you'd fubar'd your turbo's from what ever arrangements you have or from driving around with pipe blown off, would have thought you'd still have all rpm available to you, albeit reaching high rpm slowly. I did wonder whether your Ebay intercooler was blocked with summink but then you said the cars fine for 1st 10-15mins till it warms up so that rules out that idea.

I removed a Blitz Supersound which was on mine when i bought it and fitted an adjustable recirculating jobbie. How is yours now, have you blanked off the open pipes from where you removed the BOV? You could try and source a stock recirc item, sure someone must have one they don't need. I still don't see how this would affect your rev limit, would maybe cause you some boost issues. Can't you just put your BOV back on just to eliminate that?

£15 of fuel don't last long in a TT Supra if your thrashing it! But i doubt its fuel, would maybe idle like a bag of shite and eventually just conk out if there wasn't enough but don't think it would limit your revs.

Don't see how it would affect rev limit but if he cant find anything obvious but can get over 112mph i assume it has a speedo converter and speed delimeter so may be worth removing the converter put wiring back to stock and see if rev problem is still there perhaps?? Still wondering about crank sensor as I encountered a rev limit problem of this nature in the past on a Boxtser which I found to have a loose crank position sensor. Though the rev limit was reduced on that all the time.

So you can get to rev limit for first 10-15mins, then it's limited to 5100rpm when warmed up?

If it's the fuel cut would he not get the exlamation mark and engine check light warning on the dash and complete shut down of ignition rather than not being to accelerate above 5100rpm? Guess if he has an FCD and it was playing up might be a different story, but don't see how this would stop the rpm at 5100.

10-15mins worth

Don't think any of the things you have done could have caused the problem but worth checking over what you've done to see if you may have accidently upset something in the process. At the least you got a few miles of ok driving before this happened so you shouldn't have too much nightmare getting to the bottom of it. Might take quite a bit of head scratching though mate..

I'm wondering how these cars behave if the crank sensor is loose or shagged, if there was a problem with the crank sensor i reckon it could cause a problem of this nature. Do you know if it's getting full throttle and Slip control throttle isn't interfering with full throttle?

How much did that cost!!!!!?

I think Rover/MG owners had as much of a bum deal!

I hope it's more entertaining than the EDC Final at Donny South last Sunday, i was a little dissapointed tbh.

Thats why I haven't bothered asking anyone to do my a private job respray cos I'd have no come back if it came out crap, so if I'd want to make sure it was done properly i'd have to pay full wack which i would expect to be at least £2k That why i never understand when you go to these Chav shows and see shitty little cars with loadsa work gone into fitting lairy bodykits and complex paint finishes why they put that much money into it, when i can't even justify it on my Supra!

It amazing how much it costs for a respray these days. I remember when I was a young lad just over 10years ago:), I managed to get my 1st and then 2nd car both resprayed in my fave colour at the time a mettalic Green/Blue for around £600 with me removing all glass inc windcreen, door handles, flatting down the bodywork and doing minor tidying with filler, stopper etc. Was a bloke Paul I knew who worked for a BMW Stephen James bodyshop, who would rent out a local oven over the weekend. Basically tack cloth down the car i'd prepped, and spray away.. Etch Prime, 2Pack Base Coat, laquer and low bake for however long it took. Finish would depend on how good prep was. I spent weeks prepping so came out pretty good door shuts and all! I wish he still do it, think he's getting on a bit now and i've heard he's a big cheese bodyshop manager now so not much chance of that. I take it all bodyshops have to use water based paints now, has this got anything to do with the cost of resprays now days or is it all just inflation??

Anyway enough of the 4WD hijack, you guys get back to chatting cocks, feltching and what not...........

Not 100% on earlier Liners but at least on the R34 you can see the % of torque sent to the front wheels on the dash display. It's not just Liner 4WD's either I know Porsche Carrera 4's and Turbo's are the same near enough RWD untill rear slip occurs, 993, 996 & 997 C4's use a viscous centre differential except 997 Turbo models with PTM which have finally caught up with the Japs and use an electronic controlled centre diff.

Yup but the 4WD doesn't disappear and leave GTS-t running gear, 4WD is always there, a centre differential determins when to send torque to the front wheels and i think you'll find even on modest acceleration there's a small percentage of torque sent to the front wheels.