Jump to content
The mkiv Supra Owners Club

geoffvalenti

Followers
  • Posts

    1891
  • Joined

Everything posted by geoffvalenti

  1. Keep an out for the red Superbird (or Daytona) when Richard Hammond looks at the expensive muscle cars at the beginning
  2. If you want to bring it round, I'll willingly have a listen to it for you, but it's virtually impossible to diagnose a noise from your description. Saying that, I've just noticed you're in Lincolnshire, so it might be a bit far to come. I'm sure one of the closer members would be willing to listen to it for you.
  3. Jake If your cam cover vents to atmosphere it's not going to be a PCV problem. I'm not going to go up against CW and his vast knowledge I'm a fool, but not that much of one If its always done it then it "could" be valve stem seals, but if you're putting out a smokescreen like James Bond, then again its unlikely. I hope it's the turbo, you really don't want to have to pull the engine out for yet another rebuild I suppose you don't know if the engine was run in with mineral oil or not?
  4. I didn't think that power steering fluid/transmission fluid came in "grades" as such. I'm sure you can get oils of differing quality though. If its getting that hot, maybe you should think about putting a small cooler inline to reduce the temps. TBH, CW is far more qualified to answer this question than me though
  5. Hi Jake Lets look at this logically. I don't remember you saying that the car has always done this, so if it's suddenly started doing it, its unlikely to be valve stem seals. They don't "blow" as such, just gradually wear. You start off noticing a small amount of smoke and it gradually gets worse over the course of time. Valve stem seal problems are more pronounced with the throttle closed, on the overrun, due to the oil being drawn into the cylinders by the high vacuum. For the PCV system to be causing major problems, it really needs to be completely blocked. You can test this by running the engine and removing the oil filler cap. If you get a hiss as all the pressure is released, then you may have crankcase ventilation problems. Alternatively you can temporarily disconnect on of the breather hoses on the cam cover, and as long as the car will run, just take it for a short drive. If it still smokes you know its not excess crankcase pressure, because you're venting to atmosphere. Be mindful of the fact that you may get some oil out of the cam covers whilst driving. Maybe a leakdown test would help diagnose whether the rings are OK, but it sounds more like oil control rings, than compression rings, so it may not show up the problem. As for the turbo, oil seal problems with turbos normally manifest themselves after the car has been sitting idling for a while and you blip the throttle. Have you tried doing that? Otherwise you're probably down to trying to beg, borrow or steal a turbo from someone else to try on your car. I must admit to having a nasty feeling that it is probably turbo related. I'd probably do the easy checks first to try and eliminate everything else, but it wouldn't surprise me if the turbo ended up being the culprit. It's either that or something nasty internal Didn't this happen just after a mapping session? Good luck with it Jake. If you want to bounce any ideas around feel free to give me a shout.
  6. Hi Joe Just FYI, you don't actually measure valve lift with reference to TDC. TDC describes when the piston is at the very top of its stroke and has no bearing on the amount of valve opening which is, as I'm sure you know, governed by the camshaft. Oversize valves have no mechanical effect on timing, but "may" have an effect on the optimum valve and ignition timing settings for a particular engine. HTH
  7. Come on James, lets have a difficult one
  8. I suppose, asking if it's road legal is just pushing my luck?
  9. Is that comp, Jamie, or 3rd party F&T?
  10. Yeah, well that's it A limited slip diff only allows a "Limited" amount of slip between the wheels as opposed to an open diff which allows one wheel to spin and the other to stand still. So yes, with an LSD, when you're going around a tight corner and one wheel has to turn a lot further than the other one you will experience a sort of slipping by the inner wheel because it is being driven forwards rather than being allowed to virtually stand still. I've got to admit I'm surprised that you get this with the Supra, because they are fitted with a viscous type LSD, which doesn't exhibit these traits so much. A clutch type LSD is a lot more unforgiving. Are you sure someone hasn't fitted a TRD or similar diff to your Supra?
  11. Rather than spending an hour typing this out, and not making such a good job of it can I direct you here Carl http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm
  12. Probably a Toyota main dealer, but maybe some of the traders on here may be able to help you. Do a search for Steve Manley, he's probably your best bet to be honest.
  13. Probably best to only connect the +ve lead. Apparently you don't seem to need the other one
  14. Not really, it was pretty obvious from the start TBH. I just lost the will to live with the thread when we got onto just connecting up one jump lead, and it making a difference
  15. Not the bulb on the dash, but the switch/sensor on the block that Scooter described the position of. Intermittent oil pressure can be caused by a number of things including a partially blocked oil strainer or loose oil pickup pipe in the sump. Before you start pulling the engine apart, you really need to be certain that the oil pressure is dropping. As I say, change the switch first, its easiest. If it still does it and the engine isn't making any strange noises, you'll need to connect up a gauge so you can be sure what actually is happening. Basically, as imi says, if you really don't know what you're doing, it'll probably easier and cheaper in the long run to take it someone who does. And just FYI, I've never found that smacking hell out of the dashboard had any effect on low oil pressure
  16. Well it's serious if it actually is a loss of oil pressure. I'd try replacing the oil pressure switch first, before I went into panic mode
  17. I read the title and thought it was going to be something to do with Porsches Wondered if they'd brought out a secret car or something
  18. Looks good Jamie Insurance companies, on the whole, are morons I've got a roll bar fitted in my Griff, and they are always reluctant to see it as a safety addition. FFS on an open top car, I'd have thought it was a no brainer If it rolled over without it, it certainly would be
  19. Have a look here for a pretty good description of the workings of Toyota auto transmissions http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h16.pdf
  20. First instinct would be the speed converter Carl. Either remove it completely or put a THOR one on. I've got a wiring diagram for an "Import Solutions" speed converter, if it's one of those. Dodgy connections and crap speed converters account for about 90% of all these type of problems
  21. Sorry to hear this. Whoever it was must have been a kindred spirit, even if they hadn't got around to joining us Condolences to their family
  22. Tom If she can't wait 10 minutes for you mate, she's really not worth all the heartache that's bound to come later I suppose it depends if you're a masochist, or have got 2 heads and no chance of pulling anyone else Personally I'd walk away now while I still had the chance, don't give her the satisfaction of knowing that she's got under your skin As always YMMV
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. You might also be interested in our Guidelines, Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.