tintinmt

M25 Anti-clockwise Jct 12 Looking rather lovely for the couple of seconds that I was able to stare.

Hi. I am part way through wiring a rear fog light into my Toyota Crown Estate. I have a kit with relay and fuse etc and I'm trying to make a neat job of it. So far, so good, but I was expecting to be able to tap into a feed for the dipped headlights under the dash on the driver's side. Sadly, the only wiring diagram available for the car is in Japanese so pretty useless to me - although admittedly I'm not sure I would be able the read it even if it was in English. I thought I would be able to identify the wiring from the headlamp switch but all I found is a 12v supply that seems to go off when the switch is operated. I have tried tracing the wiring back from the headlamp itself without success so far. I may have to resort to an auto electrician, but I have a feeling that there will be a lot of sucking of teeth due to the lack of diagrams etc. Is there a convention on where to get power for the relay? I believe that it must be live only when the dipped headlights are on. Any thoughts on how to identify an appropriate supply?

Congratulations.

Thanks guys - that does tend to back up what I had managed to glean from the web. The UK Surfs for sale seem to be cheaper than the Land Cruisers; although as you say, they are all mostly old and rusty.

Assuming there are a few Surf owners on here - any buying advice? Any recommendations on owners club sites or other sources of advice please. How do they compare to the Land Cruiser and the Hilux commercial vehicles?

Herbie, I sympathise. For weeks after any long motorway journey I dread the postman bringing a NIP. On the M25 a chance to exceed 70 MPH would be a fine thing. There's usually several 'mini cabs' doing 60 in lane 3 or 4 - but let's not go there, for the sake of our blood pressure.

Don't know about these, but if it has a current MOT and is running it must surely be worth £400?

This is a depressing thread - especially true in the South East - except it's fairly hard to get up enough speed to break a speed limit. I have just bought a share in a track day car to see if that helps.

Part is already damaged, so experimenting with covering the repair with flock.

I would like to have a go with an electrostatic flocking applicator. It seems silly to buy a new machine just to try it. Anyone have a used one to sell or borrow?

Is that a Bedford TK I spy in the background?

Ended up buying M11 1.25 tap and die set. sorted. Pretty expensive mistake damaging the threads. 'A bit surprised with the zero offers to supply a replacement bolt.

Not going to be much help but a free bump. I have LMs 8 and 9 on my NA. I can't find a note of the offsets. I can let you know how much clearance I have with the NA brakes without spacers if that helps. By the way, I had to have the arches rolled to get good clearance.

There's an SMIC on ebay at the moment. That seller might have your parts.

I have the M10 die and it doesn't fit - neither does M12. Also measured the thread at 1.25

I did have a bit of self doubt but on checking, the bolts are not self-centering. However, this does not mean that the lock is adjustable as far as I can see. Although one side is slotted, the other bolt hole is the same size as the bolt. It is the same with the catch. I must be being dim but I can't see how the lock will move in any direction (as in the image above) without enlarging the holes at the lock mounting points.

I seem to have damaged the thread on mine and as it's M11 x 1.25, alternatives and dies seem hard to find.

I must be failing to understand how these self centering bolts work. It seems extremely likely that the lock just needs to be adjusted as the lid fits well otherwise with all panel gaps good. I will have another look at the bolts and see about replacing them with non-self centering.

Thanks guys. May car is a pre-facelift '93. I don't know about the lid. My lock has only two bolts to the body - and they are fixed position. I can't see any opportunity for adjustment. I had seen that image of the adjustment, so I was mighty disappointed when I found my lock was different.

I have fitted a replacement boot lid. All was going reasonably well until I checked the operation of the lock. It doesn't lock very 'positively' and worse does not pop into the open position when the release is pulled. Without the latch in place everything seems to line up well and with the latch in place I can see no reason why it doesn't work correctly. I cannot find any adjustment in the door hinges or either side of the lock. I attach a picture of the boot in the closed position - can you see anything wrong?

Thanks chaps!

Suggestions on where the best place to buy boot badges is now please? I need the Toyota and Supra badges.

I was planning to buy a sheet of gasket material myself, but if someone can supply the gasket ready cut to shape for a reasonable sum I'd go that way.

As I hope to fit an OEM spoiler in the very near future I would be interested too.

Second one done in one take. 15 minutes at 150 degrees.