Dave Carroll

I run an sxe369. Stock block, 264 cams, big fmic but stock intake manifold and only a 3" exhaust. Seems a very reliable turbo, comes on hard at 4k, with good levels of boost from around 3.5k. Running around 580rwhp, which is a bit disappointing really. Romain who mapped it tells me the turbo wont flow anymore (2bar boost now). I like it but I bought the turbo with a view to future upgrades and just turn boost up to improve power and while I am sure a 4" exhaust and better intake will free it up a bit, the figure are a little disappointing in my opinion. Personally I wish I had gone for at least an EFR or better yet a Garrett of some sort maybe, but having said that if I was happy to stay with the current response and power output I cant really fault it. Not tried it on track yet though!

Thats what I was thinking myself but wasnt sure the current value. Seems I am on the right track! Thanks Scooter.

Hi Guys As above really. Unfortunately, after a 2 year build, blood sweat and tears, finally getting it mapped by Romain last month and only 300miles or so use after driving home from the dyno, I need to free up some funds. Pains me but the Supra is worth more than anything else I have so its probably about to be up for sale. Been away for a while so wondering: are single turbo builds generally still worth more in bits??? Cheers David

Hi guys Currently chasing down the reason why my single build wont start. I dont have any spark, but judging by how black my spark plugs are and how wet they were after cleaning them and putting them back in for only a few seconds crank, I have plenty of fuel. I have replaced the crank sensor, and I dont believe the crank sprocket has come away as I had a look when i swapped the sensor over. The rpm needle bounces on crank and my synclog from my syvecs tells me i am getting a healthy, synced, cam and crank signal. I am wondering if anyone near the Crewe area might have an igniter lying around I could borrow to see if mine is dead? Cheers Dave

Not sure on age, it was in the car when I bought it, worked absolutely fine. Only reason it was replaced was because I am building towards big power. I would rather not post the IC pipes to be honest, as postage will probably be more than the cost of the parts but if you are happy to pay postage I can check how much it will come to!

Hi Guys, bunch of parts leftover from my big single build. Moving house again soon and sick of carting this stuff around the country to sit on another shelf. So open to offers on all this provided you can collect from the Cheshire area! HKS turbo timer loom: £5 Aftermarket fuel pressure regulator: £30 Stock fuel pump hanger with 250lph walbro pump: £30 Charcoal Canister: £10 Brake line covers: £5 Various intercooler pipes and rad pipe: £10 New HKB steering wheel boss: £5 J Spec fuel rail with injectors: £50 Stock clutch and pressure plate, plate was slipping but the clutch has some meat left: £50 Blitz bov: £30 Apexi intake: £30 Random intake parts: £make an offer! J spec turbos with log manifold and blitz downpipe. All ran perfect before removal but looking at the fins the turbos would be a good donor set for hybrid upgrade: £350 If they dont go in the next 3 or 4 weeks some of this will probably end up in the bin,so make me an offer, can only say no! All of it worked fine before removal, will be cleaned for whoever takes it of course! Cheers Dave

Hi Guys I have a no spark issue on my Supra. New crank sensor hasnt helped, was worth changing due to the state of the wiring but still no spark. I am thinking it is either the ignitor or the crank timing wheel has come away due to a failed crimp. Before I condemn the car to a long time off road due to the cost for another igniter, want to double check crank signal on scal. Can anyone tell me the correct way to see the crank signal (and cam signal for that matter) using the scal software? Thought I had checked before but I have a feeling I didnt do it correctly.... Cheers guys

I think a new sensor is a better choice. The sensor itself is out of spec anyway so I will order a new one and see how I get going. Will keep the old and repair as a spare for the track abuse the car will see again this year [emoji6]

If the resistance of the shielding is a critical part of this sensor then that may explain my issue... the shielding on my sensor is completely ripped open in one area,looks like it has caught the rad fan at some point in the past. Coupled with it getting soaked in coolant at one point recently may well explain the issue. If you found a sensor for £70 I will take a look there as first port of call!

Car has a syvecs, i did check and there is seemingly no pulse coming from the sensor. I know its common for the teeth on the crank sprocket to come loose so i felt through the hole after removing the sensor and it seems solid enough (bit difficult to tell of course!) Ideally i could do with trying one sooner rather than later but if nothing else comes up I dont have a problem waiting a few weeks! As for checking the crank sprocket should it be fairly obvious if the crimp has failed or do i need to investigate more closely?

Hi Guys As above really. My car misfired went pop now wont fire. Ive tested the crank angle sensor after ruling out fuelling and its out of spec (around 1280ohm cold reading iirc). Before investing 155quid in a brand new one, hoping someone might have a used one somewhere that might be good. So what do you guys have? Cheers Dave

Hi guys Long time since Ive posted anything, mainly as i have had a very slow build to convert my TT6 to single turbo. The build is done now and was at the point for mapping, but I have a new issue which has jammed the brakes on. The car would start and idle, with a bit of throttle feathering, but it would start then idle rough. I contacted Romain from syvecs who connected remotely to confirm the ECT sensor was kaput. So I replaced the sensor and wiring, now the syvecs reads the correct temperature. I expected to start it up again at worst with the same difficulty as before, but all I got were a couple misfires, a pop, and constant turning over. Now it wont even cough like it wants to fire up, just turns over. I removed the connection to the ECT sensor to try again but no change. Wondering if anyone has any obvious pointers I should check as I have checked a few things, all ok so far. Romain will have a look further at things remotely soon, but would prefer to have it running again first! Some build specs: Standard 1993 block 264 in/out cams Syvecs s6gp Borg warner s369 Asnu 1000cc injectors and associated fuel system New whifbitz coils and new spark plugs Thanks for any ideas guys!

Around 65 to 70 miles real world range is realistic on the original cars. More recent is around 100miles, maybe 120 if driven very very sensibly. New car is more than that, but not sure if you are looking at new or used [emoji106] I would say with careful use of the right foot, your 80mile round trip is ok for any of them unless its a very early car with a worn battery or heavy use of heated seats/heated rear windows etc. The cold weather reduces range by a good amount so keep that in mind!

No one interested in these? Bit small for a Supra I know but fit rather nicely under the arches of a Silvia etc [emoji6]

Hi guys I have some as new rota kyusha wheels that I bought new for use on my drift/track car, but no longer need. They have had tyres fitted once to try fitment for my friend's S14 time attack car, and used for a few laps around donington to try them out. Other than that they are brand new. 17 inch, 9.5J ET12 non staggered fitment. They were nearly 700gbp new, looking for £550 ovno Prefer collection from Northamptonshire for these. However I do work in Crewe during the week now. So if you are located near Crewe I could deliver in the evening,or if you are between Crewe and Northamptonshire I could deliver on friday afternoon when I drive back south.

Im still looking for the original instructions... they are here somewhere! I can have a look onlinr and send you a pdf maybe.... will have a look today or tomorrow for you mate [emoji106]

Some updates to the OP Found a few other bits in the garage, and dropped a few prices. Willing to listen to offers as I need as much of this stuff gone as possible in the next few weeks before my house move!

Hi mate I have a brand new whiffbitz 2nd decat (after downpipe) sat in the garage I can sell you [emoji4]

Original post updated again, please note the boost controller is provisionally sold ☺

Original post updated with new parts

Turbo timer now sold